-
Posts
1543 -
Joined
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by DBCooper
-
I like to use png files because they are not "lossy" like jpg files. Depending on what you want to do with the picture, such as put it on a web site or print it out as a poster, you may want to make it much larger than the current screen size. Keep in mind that if you make it much larger than the screen that it will take a lot longer to generate and be a much larger file.
-
Object Selected, NOT giving information on Bottom Right of Window
DBCooper replied to A_Joseph_PE's topic in General Q & A
You can go into your preferences and see if you accidently turned off the status bar. -
Yeah, you gave up too soon. You need to drag it way past the corner and then you will see it snap and stay in the corner. BTW, this is how it works for making corner windows too. People drag the window to the corner and stop dragging when they see it stop but you need to keep going.
-
So I could get them pretty close but got tired of trying to get them perfect. Here are some things that I noticed: - I made sure the deck railing settings were the same as the ramp railing settings (where I cared which is why I didn't change materials or balusters). - I horizontally offset the whole railing, not the newels or rails, by -2" - I dropped the bottom of the newel posts by 6" - getting the ramp to line up with the deck railings is a bit of a pain. In your picture, it looks like your ramps are overlapping your decks which is probably going to cause problems. - getting the "doorways" where the ramps meet the decks is even more of a pain. In order to get them wide enough, you need to drag the openings much wider until it snaps into the corner and every time you touch the ramp it resets them. You could also turn off the rail on these sides but I had more problems with the newel posts when I did that. Overall, I think this is much, much easier if you just use ramps with landings instead of decks. You won't get realistic looking planks and joists but you won't get them with the ramps anyways.
-
It should be listed under your "available columns" so you should be able to click on it and then click on the "add =>" button for it to show up under "columns to include".
- 4 replies
-
- door
- door schedule
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
You could always add the thickness column to your schedule.
- 4 replies
-
- door
- door schedule
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
It's probably a video card or driver issue. You should check out this tech article about "device removed" errors: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00106/troubleshooting-3d-camera-view-display-problems-in-chief-architect.html
-
1. try going to your preferences and set your minimum display size for dimensions to 0 pixels. If you are using the system defaults, I think they are set to something like 8 pixels which means your dimensions will always be at least 8 pixels high regardless of how far you zoom out.
-
2. Your door schedule is setup to use the "schedules" layer for the schedule callouts. Not sure why you set it up that way but you can either turn on the "schedules" layer or set the schedule to "use object label layer" instead so it will use the "doors, labels" layer (except for D11 because you changed it to use the "doors" layer instead and you might have done this for others too?)
-
Not just a "break". You need a "complete break". Click on the stair. Click the "break" tool that appears on the edit toolbar (not the stair breakline tool). Now look at the edit toolbar and you will see that it has some new tools. Look for the one with the "c" on it. That's the "complete break" tool. It will split the stair into two separate stair sections. When they are separate, you can set one to have a railing and the other to not have one. There is also a video here (but it is not specific about stairs): https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/303/using-the-break-tool.html?playlist=97
-
Auto Dormer has no exterior end wall, only side walls
DBCooper replied to RichardKn's topic in General Q & A
I think it would be more helpful to post the actual ".plan" file. You need to make sure it is closed and you will probably need to zip it to make it small enough to upload. You might even need to delete stuff that has nothing to do with the dormers. Either that or post it on some other online location with a link here. -
You could try adding a "complete break" to the stair and then turning off the railing on the top section. You can do this by using shift-select on the top section so you can turn off the rail and not turn it off on the lower section. You could also try turning off the automatic rail and manually draw a railing that is set to "follow stairs".
-
Cabinets display joint lines inconsistently in plan view
DBCooper replied to GeneDavis's topic in General Q & A
Not sure why you would get the extra lines with the wall cabinets but like others mentioned, sloppy connections could easily cause that. The island looks like a very old Chief bug. If you have 2 cabinets bumped against the back of one other cabinet, you will almost always get an extra line. Someone at Chief told me years ago that cabinets can only make a one connection per side so anytime you have a side bumped against more than one cabinet you will get stray lines. The easiest way around this is to just turn on the module lines so you will see all of the boxes. -
I'm not sure what HD Suite can and can't do, but you should be able to set the newels to either "post to ceiling" or "post to beam". You will need to make the railing "open" and turn off the top and bottom rails too. You might have better luck on the hometalk forum here: https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/
-
Are you sure you posted the right version of the plan? I'm not seeing the same thing as you and I am seeing the logs poking through the roof instead. My best guess is that you are seeing an attic floor sticking out. I have had that happen to me once and I fixed it by setting the floor layer to air gap.
-
User Catalog not showing up in Library Browser
DBCooper replied to tkwebster's topic in General Q & A
Might want to check out these tech articles: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00001/backing-up-chief-architect-content.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00091/restoring-chief-architect-content.html If that doesn't help, I would contact tech support. -
Are you trying to send them a floor plan or a 3D model? Might depend on the product but according to their web site, you can import autocad 3D files (DWG) but I couldn't find anything about 2D files. https://design.support.cyncly.com/hc/en-us/articles/20596586346513-Import-and-export-files Probably need to ask someone who has used 2020, like @MarkMcmaybe?
-
This tech article might also help: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00070/adding-a-belly-band-to-a-structure.html
-
This works in a cabinet label: %height - countertop_thickness% If you want it to show in a schedule, you can just turn on the "box height" column. If you want something else, one of the macro experts will have to help you.
-
That's what I thought.
-
Post your plan.
-
Select one of the objects, like the soaker tub. Look in the ALDO. What text style is it using for the labels? Now switch to the other saved plan view. Do the same thing. What you will probably find is that it is not using the same text style in both layer sets. The OOB defaults use "default label style" for the working plan view and "1/4" text style" in the electrical plan view.
-
BTW, I'm not trying to suggest that you were not smart by doing it wrong and I totally get why you tried to do it wrong, but once you learn the "Chief" way, I think you will realize the tool is actually pretty slick and could save a lot of time. Anytime I can do things without having to open up a dialog and dig down multiple levels (especially with the cabinet dialog), I think I am just a little bit happier.
-
When you use the "convert curve to polyline", a dialog should pop up that lets you choose the number of sides. Depending on how smooth you want it, you could use something like 24 or 36 and it should look pretty good. When you use the "convert polyline" tool, you will want to choose "hole in roof". When you click ok, the roof hole specification dialog should open. I had better luck when I used "plumb sides" instead of "square sides".
-
No, you can't change it after first placing it. If it's the wrong type, just delete it and place a new one in the right place and then just move or copy it. It mostly only matters for the dynamic defaults. If Chief thinks it's an exterior door, than all of your dynamic defaults are going to be set from your exterior door defaults which might not be what you want if it is really an interior door.