Kbird1

@WendyatArtform Wendy has a great set of Videos on getting Started with annosets , in fact I think two sets , and a posted Plan which She starts with probably some duplication here but : Couple on Youtube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTRMw_Q0w0IGc-1qlCHMIzg and on Zing http://www.screencast.com/t/vicroy80XHQ Plus

Using Solid reversible Walls does work , if a bit of a Hassle , basically you have to turn the Whole House "Inside out" after it is drawn, and then install the Doors and Windows into non- reversed Walls, this causes issues on Gable ends but is easily fixed....but too much time is taken for what should work OOB I think....so I think CA needs to deal with this properly. M. Have a play with this Plan..... Solid Brick Walls_Reversed Plan.plan

I remember a Post by Michael @Alaskan_Son about doing that with Wood Grains , perhaps in the Tip Forum? but I don't remember if it was Solids or What? he may have some ideas ont he above issues too....lets see M.

Using the Wall Cut Tool and Assigning two different Wall Thicknesses , works for me, at least in a quick test Plan.... but only if we use a standard Nth.American Type Wall it seems. trying with a 12" thick and 6 inch Brick wall doesn't , so the Wall definition may have something to do with it for sure.... need to play some more perhaps... but it maybe a Bug and one Idaho doesn't test for ? Maybe the Reverse Wall Trick may work for this too? M.

Okay now I see that angled Block , it is not in the Plan I have.... Look at my pics again, if you adjust the wall definition the Soffit will carry to the Beams.... but it may effect other things in your model? so I'd advise looking into it early in the design as it may make a difference in how you "build" the rest of the model as it will shift the walls outwards. BTW Chief has crashed 4 times this morning while playing with your plan and those Trusses...not sure if it is linked yet but I've had no issues till this Plan , not even the Beta. Mick.

So the Beam is setback 2-3" from the edge of the Brickwork ? Centered on the Wall below? how it it weather protected? , or maybe it isn't? just the overhang so no water up there? Soffit Builds back to the Main Wall Layer normally or perhaps the Wall Sheathing now? I think there was some Changes in X9 or X10 but CA treats Brick Walls differently , usually the Outer Layer of Brick is the Main Layer , (so Brick Walls will Align Properly with Foundations etc I think ) so we can use that to Our advantage and make your Outer Brick in two layers , And outer 2" Layer say? , and an Inner 1 5/8 Layer ( depth would be based on Beam Placement) and Push the outer 2" Layer to the Exterior Layer in the Wall Definition . However, not having experimented Further I am not sure What Else it mucks up if anything doing that, and you need to move and re-Align the two (Ceiling) Beams.

It does it for Autosaves in the Archive Folder... I have it set for Hourly and AutoSave set for 5 mins in case there is a Crash too, but I am also saving as I work , hitting the Save Icon every now and then or when I stop for a Break ( Forum Read ).

I remember now after Looking thru the Library that my T&G started out as the Clopay Garage Door T&G --- Fir Paints the best by the way , but here is my T&G Soffit Collection... MHD_Tongue and Groove_X10.calibz

I Cut the hole through the Wall to see the Soffit with the Wall Layer Tool , , try turn that Layer back on so you can see the "Tool" ...... a Toaster and delete it , see if that is the Issue. I made some T&G Symbols a While Back and also have Seafield's Square Groove T&G Texture he posted a few weeks back and a White 2x6 White Decking , I have used for many years which was a CA Deck Material, possibly originally? ... I'll bundle them Up and post them here , since apparently you can't get them out of the Plan like I though you'd be able too. The Issue with the Roof Plane not touching the Truss is simply the location of the Truss and due to your Wall Type/Beams causing the Roof Plane Base Line to build in the Wrong Place. Is this how it is actually Built? Are the Beams not Flush to the Outer Brick line? The Base Line can be moved in or out and Up or Down easily but 1st you need an Accurate Wall and Beam Layout, before you start moving things around. Maybe good to do a read of the Help File on (Roof) Baseline and how it works.... the Default Location...... The Baseline The pitch direction and initial height of any roof plane - manual or automatic - is determined by its Baseline. The Baseline of the roof plane is normally located over the outer main layer of the wall and is used as the pivot point for the roof plane when the pitch is changed. The Baseline height is determined by the following formula: Elevation of the wall top plate + Vertical Structure Depth - Vertical Birdsmouth Depth = Baseline Height In a cross section, the Baseline is located directly above the outer surface of the main wall layer, at the top surface of the roof framing. A roof Baseline displays as a separate line within its roof plane when the “Roofs, Baselines” layer is turned on. In 3D views, it can only be seen if the roof plane is selected.

Nice Write Up Mark ..... More Of Mark's Laptops Posts for Others in this Thread over in the Chatroom.... P.S. Joey perhaps you could change your Thread Title to include Laptop Advice , ot the Tags , so Others find it in the Future...just Edit the OP to do that.

Do you mean I missed the Setting or is this a Suggestion for CA ? I agree if it is a Suggestion.. *** Got it

Yep the "3D Objects" are the 1st Folder in the Simpson Library ...at least in X9 and X10 libraries *** just checked and there is "limited 3D" for X8 too Rob https://3dlibrary.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?r=site/detail/796

Just a Bump for those that missed it there were about 10-12 updates to my Library Fri. including Core and MEP , and some of the Bonus Libs. etc. M.

the Y520 and the Y720 are both computers I looked at myself and the Pricing wasn't bad but I found reviews say the Screen was lacking especially in Colour output but Scott Harris and Johnny got the Y520 with the 1050ti and say it works great .... https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/17026-macbook-pro-or-dell-precision-laptop/?do=findComment&comment=143216 Being the Laptop is not my main Computer I decided to try the same specs as above since my Surface3 os no longer a viable Option for x10. I have ordered a Acer Nitro 5 AN515-51-76YG 15.6" Laptop (i7-7700HQ, 16GB DDR4, 256GB SSD, Windows 10 Home) as reviews seemed better screen wise, and it is on sale at the moment ( end of line I suspect) if it was my only computer I would spend more for a better VideoCard eg the 1060 or 1070 https://www.notebookcheck.net/Acer-Nitro-5-7700HQ-GTX-1050-Ti-Laptop-Review.251846.0.html The Acer Helios 300 also gets good reviews . I saw Microsoft had a Pi Day Sale this week , 30% off ...might be worth checking them out , I have had good luck buy from them direct as far as "After Care" Service goes.... But then again I guess the Guy you got that system from will likely bring the new one in for you?

Mark will give you a good deal , he wants to buy a new one unless you have really good eyes I would avoid a 4K screen ...at least that is my experience.....stuff is way too small or you have to scale Win10 400% or something..... FHD or QHD res. should keep the price down too... (somewhat gaming laptops aren't cheap.) M.

If you make the Glass Panel in a new Plan ( make the door width the Spacing between the Posts ) and then save it as a Door Symbol, it is Clear Glass in all Views, unless you want it Opaque of course. Make the Railing Open , Post to Rail, then place the new Glass Panel "Door" as you normally place a door. There are a few downside , one being you have to Close the 90° Swing showing in plan view and post placement is a bit finicky as it is determined by the Door Size. And you may need to add a Room Polyline in Plan view to show the deck edge. Someone better than me with Symbols can probably make it work better and look nicer in Plan View too.

He is talking about doing a Deck Joey and I didn't think the Auto Deck Framing Tool allowed for that? Perhaps if you built the deck with no Beams and drew your own Beams it would work? Should be easy enough to change the Hanger material to Black to get what he wants..... 3D Warehouse probably is more extensive forSimpson , I am not sure when the last time Chief's Library was updated. M.

Does the VideoCard have 2GB Ram or 4GB or ? 4Gb is recommend but I think it is now the new Minimum with x10 , even on my 8GB 1070Ti it is not instantaneous since the CPU still has to do it thing and Cores Count there if RCSS are on....... Video Ram is taking a Big hit with the New PBR Views , I think Graham said 1.5 GB per window in the Lets PBR Thread.... page 9 maybe? It may not be cheap to upgrade the Ram especially if it only has two slots and both are already full. DDR4 is expensive right now....

That isn't necessary , you have the Soffits turned OFF on both Roof planes , and the material is 0" thick Opening -No material, which = invisible , which is why you don't have a White overhang..... so Delete the upper Roof plane stretch the lower Up and open it's DBX uncheck use Room Finish check use Soffit and change the Material to Fir Decking - Lemon Chiffon and make it 3/4" thick ( I changed it to my own Soffit material it painted better , left in attached plan.) hit Edit Ceiling and assign the Fir Decking ( change the texture size to something like 36"x36" to give you 1x6, it is currently 180"x180" so you get very wide boards in 3D) Let me know if I missed a step... Plan attached......................Pool House & Pavilion-MHD.plan

Why are you doing the Roof plane in two pieces though? maybe I need to play more?

No Problem , happy to help , maybe email him/her a Link to this Thread and he can read it for himself....

CA recommends the Nvidia series of Gaming Cards , that is another AMD Card...., not that it won't work but I can't say if AO is a problem on it to0 or not? a 6GB or 8GB version would be better 4GB is now the Minimum ( though listed as recommended ), due to PBR. Something like the EVGA 1060 or 1070 Cards ( or any brand ) BUT all VideoCards are expensive right now , though I see some places advertising the 1060 again , though not for $200 , If you can get an older 980Ti for $2-300 then it would be a good buy in that budget Range. the Pricing of VideoCards individually currently is why I suggested a new system as one way to get that Card and also Win10 in your Case.... New System can also be written off for Business Use? Let the older Computer become the backup - doing Accounts etc System or Donate it for a tax Credit? M.

I have Noticed this Issue for a While too , the Reduced Gable / End truss does not eliminate the wall framing automatically like Trusses do will ceiling Joists and Rafters. Maybe I need to play more but I have not found the "Special Combo" of Check Boxes and Truss Placement (possibly?) to correct this automatically. M.

Thanks always happy to have another Symbol , I have been messing with the Delete Surface Tool since Michael Posted the Tip over in the Tips Forum , it was how I cleaned up the really old NanaWall Library by DMDz and made a few extra Panels ( in the Symbols Forum already) DMDz NanaWalls Updated MHD.calibz

Thanks Greg , but there is some weidness in the .calibz file , the Tree is Red..... , it's still using the sketchup colour by the looks... even though it shows properly in the Preview Window. *** tried the Sketchup File too and same Red tree.... M.