JiAngelo

Have you tried room dividers at the breaks so that Chief sees 3 different rooms defined? Then try changing the middle room to roof group 1. But I have to ask how you intend to deal with eaves on the long side? You need the planes to start off at the same facia plane, not the heel height.

In your wall definition on the upper wall move the plywood to inside the main layer. However all exterior dimensions will now be to this plywood, not the stud.

Each "room" is ~2 feet above the other. (3x tread height) Often I'll design a third room "patio" to define a landing area for the stairs off the deck. It's not necessary but helps when drawing. Stairs then belong to the lowest heading up to the next room.

There are a couple of trailers in bonus libraries. One is a triple axle you cam resize it to fit your building.

Deja Vu ? You are measuring to the ext. surface layer vs. The studs. Studs are 10'x10' =100' Surfaces: 10.25'x10.25 = 105' Change default to measure to main layer. Also, 9.33'x9.33' =87'

Shayne can you post a picture of your graphic scale bars? Mark, if I'm understanding you correctly, ignore %scale%. Like DBCooper said, one can use %box_scale% (and %sheet.size%) in either the label of the layout box itself - OR Create a text box with those macros and an line arrow reference pointing to any layout box on the drawing page. We use variations of " %automatic_label% | %box_scale% " in the label of our layout boxes versus on the drawing sheet because sometimes we mix scales on the same page. Front elevation might be 1/4" and sides/rear might be 3/16" or 1/8". The video shows this does not enable underlining. Our layout box borders are generally turned off, but if you position an arrow+text box at one corner. Here's an example showing sheet.size and different arrow types referencing upper corners of two layout boxes. The larger text under the elevations is the layout labels with %sheet.size% added to the right only. As for a graphic bar scale we drew the following years ago on the layout page 0 as part of our template. It appears on every page in the title block. It is drawn to real sheet.size page dimensions. Works great if we print at sheet.size. Our problem is we normally draw sheet.size = 34x22 for final plots, but we have 17x11 printers in house. So we print at 1/2 scale in the print dialog, but the macros don't adjust to the "Check Plot" 1/2 scale we are printing. The graphic bar does reduce proportionally, so the 1" box actually measures 1/2" on the printed page (and so on..) and we adjust for this internally but anyone else is lost looking at a 17x11 print. I'd overlooked that sheet.size variable. Adding that in a corner of our titleblock would indicate scale is off if your holding a 11x17 page and it says 22x34. My question: Is there a check.plot variable? like creating %box_scale.check_plot% - that would make the macro's match the printed scale vs. sheet.size? We could then create 2 PDF's for each project 34x22 and 17x11 with all the scales automatically adjusted. (and sheet.size in the title block so we know the difference.) John.

I think those drivers are 32-bit. Is your windows 64-bit? This link may help you

Here is where you can add additional angles. Section cameras can't be rotated apparently, but can be drawn to any allowed angle. Draw a line perpendicular to the wall and find its angle and allow it. If it is 88 degrees for example you might want to allow a smaller multiple, like 22 or 11 or 5.6 If that doesn't work exactly subtract 180 from the angle (or add) and try that number or fraction there of instead. Here's an example of 2 parallel lines, one starts left and ends right, the other starts right and ends left - that is why the angles are 180 degrees different from one another.

There's a box awning in the commercial awnings bonus library that I use alot. It looks like your roof but only offers 2 supports and the colors match the flat roof. When I played around with the corbels, resizing them, only the timber corbel worked, but it is awfully big and may not give you the look you desire.. So instead I created a 4"x4"x7' solid, created a side elevation view of the porch and rotated the solid column to 45 degrees. Angled the ends to plumb/level with the porch roof and wall. Then slid it into place under the roof, against the wall. - I colored it osb to contrast with the corbel and the roof - and I left the corbel so that you could see the difference. The solid idea actually works best. I've used the corbels on smaller roofs before and suggested it without thinking it through. My bad

Sorry, logged into this website is what I meant. Switch to www.chiefarchitect.com and visit "my account" and select "digital locker". This should tell you if chief sees your computer as authorized for the software. However, this may be a permissions problem with windows itself. Can you right click the program and select "run as administrator" - see if that works.

Contact Tech support is the easiest. However if you are logged in check your digital locker and see if it shows the current computer as connected.

The easiest way is to place an enlarged corbel (library) then raise it so the top frame is inside the roof and move it so the side frame is inside the wall.

Clopay has a door that's all glass panels

There is no difference in protection whether the GFCI is in the service panel or Receptacle A. Most homes, we use two circuits to feed kitchen countertop outlets which must be GFCI protected. We alternate the outlets so that any two adjacent outlets are on different circuits and using multiple adjacent countertop appliances (like an air fryer, a toaster and a blender) aren't all pulling amperage from the same circuit. To save money, we wire the 4-5 dining room outlets using Circuit 1 (20amp breaker), then install 1 GFI in the kitchen and protect every other outlet using that. We then wire the 4-5 dinette or living area outlets using Circuit 2 (20 amp breaker), then install a second GFI in the kitchen and protect the other remaining alternating outlets. Similarly, you could wire a bathroom GFI off a guest bedroom using the shared circuit, but bedrooms only require 15amps. To save money, we wire all bathrooms on 1 20amp circuit. Usually putting the GFCI receptacle in the Master, then feeding the kids, guest & half baths downstream. Whether to use a GFCI breaker vs. GFCI receptacle boils down to "how far do you want to travel when it trips?" 1-2 flights of stairs vs. simply leaning over a countertop and hitting reset....personally I'd choose option 2 every day. Especially if I'm in my garage and I trip a circuit. Again - running downstairs to the basement versus resetting a wall outlet in the garage and getting back to work. The choice is yours.

Code requires slats be no more than 4" apart. The picture looks like studs, so oak 2x4's spaced 5.5" on center would work. All rail settings assume newel and balusters are equal x,y widths. I'd recommend using a wall which would achieve this. Steps to reproduce. Make a copy of wall type Interior Railing. Open the new wall type definition dbx (define) and delete drywall on either side. - Note I didn't change pattern/texture to oak here. I wasn't sure it would affect top/bottom plates. Select framing layer and check Framing to change stud spacing to 5.5" - Note: make top/bottom plates thinner (and the count) here if you like. Go to the main wall specification dbx and on the general tab select "No Room Moldings Exterior" and "No Room Moldings Interior" - Note: gets rid of baseboard. Go to Materials tab and select "No Room Wall Coverings" - Note: otherwise you just see a solid wall of stud material....not sure why. Open your 3d view and the wall should look like the above. - Note: I then painted the studs and rails Anderson Oak from the library. To make it look like your left picture, I then did the following. Open an elevation view looking at the wall with the stairs on the other side. Turn on wall framing layer. Go back to plan view change the wall back to the regular interior railing definition - Note, if you don't you can't select the wall in 3D only the studs. In elevation view, select just the wall, not the room, and break the midpoint of the top of the wall. Slide the walls upper left corner down to match the handrail height. Slide the walls midpoint over to match the handrail meeting the ceiling (in my example.) Open the stair dbx and delete the rail on this wall. - Note, you could delete the other too - but continuous rail to the top of stairs is coded required. Change the wall definition back to your copy of interior railing (no drywall) Regenerate framing and you should see something like this. Of course the wall cuts ceiling. But when I tried the above steps using a rail wall it wouldn't let me break it. So I cheated, added a slab 5/8" thick at 109 1/8" high, changed its' material to drywall and colored it to match the ceiling. Hopefully these steps achieve the look you want.

Learn something new every day I've been drawing a second control object, usually a small circle nearby, then selected both to move the entire object. This is much simpler.

Any chance you are measuring room area to surface materials vs wall face? 51' 1" x 101' 1" = 5163sf. 6.5" of exterior materials like brick/stone and an air gap?

And again, by default the polygon box is to the exterior surfaces. You can move it to the main layer It changes my total sq. ft. to 1715 from 1727 using my example rooms

I have the active layer pane open on the right, when the polygon is selected, select Polyline labels Then at the bottom of the screen change the text style. Also you sometimes have to zoom in to see the selection dot of the label so that you can move it to where you want it.

On second thought. You could make a perimeter building polyline of the outside of the building. Then reduce just that polygon 5/6 (=2500/3000) Change it to a different color and position it over your 3000sf floorplan. First decision you'll need to make is ensuring the garage size still works inside the smaller space. Once that at least meets the minimums, then start adjusting all the remaining rooms until they fit in your 2500sf box.

Your wall widths, doors, windows, cabinetry and fixtures don't get proportionally smaller. Hallways generally stay the same size and 2 foot deep closets don't get reduced either.

Michael, If you right-click about 4" outside of your building, it will highlight the perimeter (similar to right-clicking inside a room. On the bottom bar you will see the following Click the fourth one from the right to create a room polyline, like so, Open the dbx and select "Label", then "Specify Label" and enter "%area%" macro (not the quotes). Close dbx, but while the polygon is still selected, change your "Polyline, Labels" layer to match your "Room Label Style". Now select the polygon label and slide it into position near your living area label. (Then change the polygon label to 1/4" Text Style to match the living area text.) Lastly, if you want to get rid of the decimal, go back to the label dbx and change it to %area.round% You can adjust the polyline to match what you want to show. Leave out the porch, measure only to framed walls, versus surfaces, etc... Hope this helps.

Deactivate your license on your computer, enter your license on his computer for his use while you are gone then revert everything when.you get back.

You need to paste, not place the second doorway. Place the first one. Copy that one, control v and aim about 4" left or right of the first opening and click there to paste. Mull them together and there is no inner framing or jamb material. I can't get the same result with windows.

Copy and paste a second door w/ zero separation between the two. Raise the sill on one to your kneewall height off the floor. (see left opening below) Widen each door from the opposite end until they represent the proper width. Select both and mull them together. (see right opening below): I couldn't get it to work properly using a window. And, I'd cheat and use a slab or solid to create the sill cap - the cap disappears when mulled, even if you raise the lower door to give it a sill as well.