JiAngelo

Are you sure you didn't check "Ignore Top (Second) Floor? Uncheck that if you did.

An attic room isn't a 3rd story. It is inside the required roof pitches and your use is non-habitable, for mechanical equipment only. City will allow this use. Exactly what are your overhangs required to be? Spanning the entire 1186cm likely will require a 60cm floor truss system. Send out the plans and find out.

To keep a 7/12 pitch (30 degrees) And stay under 950cm, per your authority Change first floor to 285cm, net 265cm after your drop ceiling for MEPs.. Change second floor to 265cm and move MEP's to attic area. This should have you at 947.6cm entrance to ridge. You should have enough room to create an insulated attic room 430cm wide by 250cm tall in a hipped roof. The attic room can run the full length of a gable roof w/ windows on either end. The attc room could be only 125cm tall if you like, like below (from a building I'd drawn for another client) Or, at 250cm's it looks like this on another project we are constructing now. Personally I would choose the above to eliminate the need for any flat roof areas. The attic room only needs to be large enough for equipment and access - this would save money too.

I can't speak to shipping with a the 2% sloped top chord, I'll ask our truss guys about this next week. But we are currently doing a job now where we needed to stay under 35' and the truss company was building them with a flat top for piggyback trusses to be installed above. They did this so that the trusses wouldn't be too tall, which requires extra expense to ship across our state. We ended up changing the pitch from 10/12 to 9/12 and this allowed our piggybacks & shingles to fit under the 35' maximum. But, we were prepared to install plywood flat over the top of the trusses, then add a tapered iso to give us the required 1/4" per foot minimum slope. That equals 1.18 degrees, so 2 degrees is definitely above the minimum. here's an example of the tapered iso. Here's a flat roof transition to sloped roof detail. Ignore the gravel, a flat rubber roof doesn't need it. The 2 degree slope will have water running off onto the shingles all the way around. The good thing is this design has you 35.9cm under the authority's 950cm - in case they change their definition of ground level at the entrance. With the flat roof, I'd prefer the gable design so that I could install gable vents on the ends rather than hat vents on the 7/12 slopes or anything piercing the flat roof itself. Hope this helps.

I didn't say you did. I was saying the rails are decorative and not required unless there is access there. Here's your trusses with a 2 degree flat peak. This is hipped with a girder (circled in green.) Flat top trusses start further back and above the garage trusses. Below is gable ends, 7/12 front to back main house and 7/12 left to right over garage. I think you could raise the front pitch maybe 5 degrees and not impact the flat roof? Every number you've requested is represented in the story pole below and I'm under 950cm (500mm) I can't believe this doesn't put a smile on your face.

Standard 7/12 hip trusses without their piggy backs above 9000mm would give you the look. Instead of piggybacks you could install tapered plywood at the 10 degrees. Its actually called a widows walk and the railing is decorative, not required unless there is rooftop access to the flat area from within.

I think Poland permits mansard roofs. I specified 2900mm for each floor, 400mm for the second deck and changed the roof pitch to 2 degrees at 9000mm. I added a decorative perimeter rail above the 9000mm point that still manages to be under 9500mm from the first floor deck. The roof itself allows grade to be 430mm below the front door and you will still meet the authority requirements.

It appears the 950cm is to be measured from ground level outside the entrance, not the sill of the entrance itself. If that is true, what is the elevation difference between ground level and top of the first floor deck (entrance sill.)?

Where's the problem? 30-45 degrees equals 7/12 to 12/12. Side elevation 1186 ÷ 2 = 593 run And 370 rise ÷ 593 run = 7-1/2 pitch. A 7/12 pitch = 342.37 rise. This gives you room for lumber and shingles. Try 7/12 front to back and make the front gable 7/12 as well initially. Then increase the front gable pitch without the ridge exceeding the 7/12 ridge. Here's an image in case the above isn't clear. A 7/12 all hipped roof should work fine too. Girder over the heated floor areas so that all trusses bear on ex. outside foundation walls.

Your rafters are 2x10s. On an 8/12 pitch, the vertical plumb cut depth is approximately 11 1/8" Forgot to add that you didn't show the plan. You may have some other roof intersections that are raising the roof planes so that the facia plane out all around the building.

I think the only thing the surveyor cleaned up was the boundary on BDRY2. Points() layer is still grouped as a cad block.in Layer 0. I forgot that if you don't specify anything as a terrain, but you do specify a Layer that does have elevation data present, Chief will automatically add a terrain that encompasses all the elevation data. Import the file and only specify contours as elevation data. I work on a white background, most Surveyors use black. I've changed the Terrain Layer to Color Orange with Line Weight 1000. On the BDRY2 layer, I change it to Color Blue & Line Weight 1000 (which initially does nothiing because every surveyor has this unchecked and yellow individually.) Select each BDRY2 lot perimeter line and in the dbx check Line Style boxes Color, Style & Weight. Close dbx and the lines should change to Blue & 1000. You should see this. With regard to the green circles, The bottom arc doesn't run to the end, it straightens out and you need to change that line to Blue 1000 too. At the upper left circler there are two lines that I'd seen in the file earlier. You can ignore them, or move them out of the way temporarily. Now that the perimeter has all blue lines with the same Styles checked, select on at the corners and it will connect to the adjacent blue lines automatically. Do this at each disconnected corner until you see a closed boundary for your lot perimeter. Notice the Terrain perimeter doesn't cover the entire lot - because there is no elevation data in those corners. Notice below your contour lines don't reach the ends of your lot. Chief guesses (extrapolates) what to do where no data is present and it rarely guesses what you'd like to see. Typically I'd reshape my terrain perimeter to match the lot + 5-10 feet at the sides and rear, maybe 30-60' at the front to show the road. The easiest way is to first drag each corner to a lot corner. Which then becomes this. Note you could have simply deleted the terrain, copied the lot perimeter in place and changed that polygon to a terrain if you wanted the curves to match. Open a 3D Camera and Chief will generate the contours as best it can with the data thus far. When you go back to the 2D drawing you will see these contours. At this point I'd probably give up on my surveyor and since I didn't import the Points() layer as data, I would place some elevation points on those X's. I don't care if they are slightly off. Make sure CAD is set to Ft, decimal feet, with precision 3 decimal places (I usually have quadrant bearing turn on as well.) and add the macro to show elevation label. Here's what you should see. I'm not so concerned with the rear lot contours. But the 52' contour line that is running under the Makalulu text I extended past the perimeter edges so that it wouldn't create a circle. these random extensions cross one another. Below is all layers off with contours, bdry2 and terrain perimeter turned on. (easier to see what you are doing) Now, wherever I'm planning to build and I need finer point data (or at the lot corners & road, where it is missing data, I would copy the elev point to those locations and change the value. I copy it because it already is set up for how I want to see the data formatted & displayed. Place as many points as you actually need. I also add a 1' tall fence along the side property lines and the road so that my 3D view looks like this. This way when i start drawing a building I have some perspective on how close it is to the road and side lot lines in 3D views. I hope this helps.

Actually, import with Contours as elevation data and you will find the data is there on Contours. The one I selected says 49' If you zoom in you will see your points(4-13-24) fall between the correct contours. Unfortunately, your going to need to call him back and tell him "unblock everything" includes everything, not just some things. Everything on Points(4-13-24) is still in blocks on Layer 0. And Chief doesn't assign elevation data to a block. Red circle is his block of points(4-13-24) data, still blocked up on Layer 0.. Green circle is after I unblocked one group. It contains 4 objects. Chief needs them unblocked to read the data. Technically the elevation "X" point & Point.ELEVATION data (49.505) should be on its own layer. Point.NUMBER (129) and Point.NAME (GD) should be on separate layers. At least that's how my equipment exports them and Chief loves it. And if he doesn't move Point.NUMBER to another layer, you may find an elevation 129' and 49.505' right beside one another. If you tell Chief Points(4-13-24) is elevation data, when you import now the "X" disappears, but no values are set because the data is in a block In case he still doesn't get it, show him this. This is a block of points(4-13-24) data. Notice it is also on Layer 0 (as a Cad block). You can only turn it off by selecting Layer 0. Selecting the points() does nothing. And show him this. This is after I unblocked the group. Notice they all now exist individually on only the points(4-13-24) layer. Pro Tip - the Boundary is on BDRY2, and true to form, it isn't closed. In fact it's nowhere close. The BLACK and RED lines don't share a common point, so they can't join with one another. The GREEN line has no "Polylines, Label" Layer so it can't join with either Black or Red, which do have a "Polylines, Label" Layer. And I don't know if the YELLOW line means this is two lots, but it has no "Polylines, Label" Layer either and neither BLACK or RED have breaks in their lines where YELLOW meets them.. Chief requires all to be the same to connect automatically. This just means you are going to have to draw that terrain perimeter yourself. Not the end of the world, but just maddening when surveying is all about precision. Hope this helps.

The surveyor needs to unblock everything on Layer 0. Your points() layer is importing as a block on Layer 0. Select one and you can only hide it by turning off Layer 0. Turning off the points() Layer does nothing until you unblock an object on Layer 0. Chief can't read points data within a blocked object. Contact your surveyor and have him send you the unblocked model. He exported his plan view. Also, the unit of import is Feet.

Pretty sure this isn't a scale problem. Phone gps apps are only accurate to +/-16ft radius. That's +/-16ft at each point you measure. The error distance grows if obstructions exist - trees, clouds, adjacent structures. The quality of the phone's internals affect this as well. If you stood on two points that you know are 100' apart and shot 157', find a third point that is a known set distance from the first two points. Best if 【1-3】does not equal 【2-3】 . Go out there with a 100ft tape and pick one. Calculate (Actual Distance) / (Recorded distance) values for points【1-2】, 【1-3】 and 【2-3】, if they dont all equal 100/157 then you can't scale. I would wager if you shot 【1-2】 again you'd get a different number.

Jim, Place a point at your radius center. Select the object you wish to copy, choose "About current point", select # of copies, and specify an angle, If you don't like the results, CNTRL Z and repeat, choose a different +/- radius to get the spacing right and number of copies needed. You can start from one side, but I generally start in the middle then mirror the results when I get the angle set to spacing it how I want. Hope this helps.

Jim, I haven't used the 3D viewer for a while, but the elevation problem had me thinking I had some setting wrong. I use reference display most often when remodeling, like referencing different addition ideas against the existing house. I use 3d models more often than I should due to habit and for many of the advantages @DBCooper listed.

In a 3d camera view of your plan export to a collada .DAE file. Then import the .DAE file as a 3D model and it will add it to your user library. Place this model in your terrain plan. One shortcoming of this method is if you make changes to the floorplan you need to export a new model and replace it the terrain file. That applies to every model. A better option is to use the reference plan tools. Similar to referencing an upper or lower floor, you can reference an entire plan file. Then if you update a floorplan, when you reopen your terrain file it will update its reference plan files.

if the red lines is the roof plane you want then I think you need invisible walls to create the green boxed rooms at a matching height with the porch M.

You already have a terrain. Look at your layer set image. The Terrain Perimeter has a plus sign indicating this is so. You can either delete it, then try converting the polyline, or break the edges of the existing terrain and drag them to each polyline point location until you've matched your desired shape. The error message is to let you know the surveyors file is based on real world dimensions. If you choose "ignore", any work you do will be at the real world location and can be exported back to your surveyor or any gis devices you may have for immediate use. When you chose "move", everything is relocate to the origin. Any work you do would require the surveyor open your export, then cut and paste your changes to his real world location to use with his devices.

Import as meters. 1.5m=1500mm

I think X8 opens earlier files

That was it. Thanks Jim.

Hello, I have a house I'm designing and when I select a wall the option to build framing is missing. On the left is a new plan and when I select a wall the option appears (circled in green) But in my current plan, the option is missing (circled in red.) Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

The earlier pictures were from the Murphy Door Company. Your problem is the assymetric nature of the doors on the wall. It would be nice if you.could balance the single doors to either side of the French. Then.come up with an asymmetrical pattern that appeals to you. Etsy and Pinterest are full of ideas. Many can be purchased as kits. Don't limit yourself to traditional 1x4 library panel designs.

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