JiAngelo

In your new model, select the wall plane and you will see why the gap is there. I moved it left initially to cleaned up. But was still getting a gap on the exterior views. I switched to the exterior view and assuming you are done moving exterior walls, turned off autoroof and broke the planes and extended them to match your picture. This changed the interior wall plane. I see you cleaned up the corner wall upstairs by keeping it the same 3-3/8" "Attic Divider Wall" and adding an exterior surface to a new wall definition. That works. Now you need to work on your stair hole Glad I could help. Good luck.

Here's a response I started yesterday. It is incomplete, but i just saw your reply this morning and it appears you have caught on to some of the problems I discuss. YESTERDAY Overall you are doing great. I'm also seeing where some of my instructions were vague or incomplete. On your drawing, the exterior side of the main wall framing that you draw should match up and the exterior surfaces fall outside of that match up. Imagine you were framing a continuous wall with different exteriors of varying thickness, like stucco vs. cultured stone vs. vinyl siding. All three can be present on one continuous wall with different material regions applied along different sections, however, most often we break this into 3 different wall types with each aligned on the same side. This is also generally true if interior finish thicknesses change, and across all levels, including foundation. Here's an example using several of your wall styles. Notice they all line up to the top end (exterior side). Some exteriors stick out farther than others, and some interiors are thicker than others. Except for stairwells and two story vaulted areas, It doesn't matter as much on the inside which way the wall exterior is facing. But when you draw the overall building, the exterior foundation, first floor and second floor measurements to framing should all be identical, unless there is a cantilever or some other feature that changes that rule. They need to stack for siding to be continuous per floor. You'll also discover that varying thicknesses across floors can lead to errors at intersections of various walls (see further below.) From this photo and your commentary, I understand now why you framed the lower 2x4 walls flanking the 2x6 invisible wall. However the 6" beam is acting as a band board (rim joist). I would have used the 6" invisible wall here entirely and replaced the rim joist with the proper beam size or plies. I would reverse the wall so that its exterior side is to the garage door side and it lines up with the exterior siding wall above. I normally draw my beams with a 4" blue angle hatch with a transparent background so that I can see the posts, pier pads & framing underneath. I also change them to pressure treated lumber so that I can see them in 3D framing view. If you drew this floor beam to match the exterior side of your 6" invisible wall, then raised it 11", and made it 11" tall and 6" thick. Then you can add 4" columns on either end. Chief doesn't let me copy studs to an invisible wall, so copy the columns and make them 1-1/2" thick like a stud. Place the first stud against the column, this one has the bolts, then place a second "stud" beside this one. If you drill 2" holes centered on the nuts you will find it fits perfectly and allows drywall to be hung without the bolts interfering. Change the 4x4 column to steel and to paint it red, I temporarily placed a "lally column" to copy the color to the steel columns. I was tempted to use the lally column for their baseplates, but the pipes are round. Here's the 3D framing view. Notice my steel beam, which is over the invisible wall is in line with the patio invisible wall. Next problem is on the exterior view you will find these 4 walls have exterior surfaces that don't line up. One reason is the porch hip roof needs to extend back to the garage roof. Creating that detail I'd save until I was done with auto roofs & exterior wall framing. Then I'd break the plane and extend it to intersect the garage roof. I'm pretty sure the facia/roof plane below it 45's back to the french door wall, but I don't have that picture. (left picture below) Pretty sure these roofs and cladding differentials is why these artifacts are occurring. Initially I thought you were doing this to remodel the upstairs and downstairs rooms and the 42" vs 52" was impacting your interior photos/plans of what you intended to do. Now it feels like you are just running Chief through its paces comparing what you draw to a real world scenario for practice. That is a good way to learn. I've often wished Architects and Engineers were required to frame in the field 5 years like plumbers and electricians are before getting licensure. For what it is worth, here's a few tips that work for me. 1. Dimension to framing/foundation, not finish surfaces. You can do that later if you really need it, but knowing your framing all matches up is critical. 2. Have a single common consistent theme of wall thicknesses. You have 3-3/8, 3-1/2 and 4-9/16 for what I'd call a 4" wall. You have 5-5/16, 5-7/16, 5-1/2, for what I'd call a 6" wall. If its not in the wall label, and the walls aren't lined up on a consistent side, visually how are you to know if any contiguous wall has its framing offset from another or with the wall above/below it? Personally I have an aversion to these odd measurements. When I first started drafting projects I drew to the nominals. 4" 6" 8" walls. This carried over to Generic Cadd and then Chief Architect back in the 90's. I did my own framing back then and I knew various rooms actually ended up 1/2 - 1" bigger depending on which side the dimensioning favored. I dimension walls to the inside of stairwells and 2 story areas so that framing stacked, and inside of bathroom tub or shower walls to ensure fixtures fit. 3. Field adjust. Plans may be drawn precise then you find your foundation is slightly out of square. Or the house you are adding an addition to is 1/2" out of plumb. Field conditions require us to adapt and overcome. Framers never frame as tightly as trim carpenters. TODAY I'm going to stop here and review your reply and new model.

Hello, Step #3 was to extend the invisible wall to the end and make it visible. It looks like you extended the left wall and turned the corner with it. It looks like the invisible wall may still there creating cuts in the ceiling. I don't have these cuts in my interior. Step #5 was to turn the corner with the front wall (which has an exterior siding surface) and because it is a gable the turned wall has to be changed to a hip for the roofs to work. It should extend back far enough that you won't see wood, you will see siding. The gable wall I can't read your note in the next to last picture, however I had noticed it doesn't match up and this is because your 3" porch wall has a thicker stucco exterior surface and your 6" bearing walls is just 1/2" drywall painted to look like siding. If the walls have the same finish, then it cleans up that gable offset. The turned wall from Step #5 needs to match the exterior finish method you choose. (I probably should ask why below this gable wall you have (2) four inch walls flanking a 6" invisible wall that appears centered on the each other rather than lining up on one side...) With regards to your 9' soffit height and Picture #1. There's an arrow pointing to those roof lines not matching up. the left is slightly higher than the upper right. I missed that. It is in my model as well. Lowering the bonus room to 2.5" eliminated it making it all one roof plane. On the front porch over the door, I'm getting 8'4" (100" frame to frame) Picture 5 looks like the porch is only 3" deep not 11" deep (from top of subfloor). So I created an angled Stucco 5 wall splitting the bonus room in two. The angle is directly over the top of the french door wall. I opened up the little bonus triangle room and changed its floor structure to 3" instead of 11". NOTE: The triangle room does mess with the outside corner above right of the french doors. You can play with extending the exterior layers or put an outside corner over it. Now the soffit over the porch is 9' And where you are measuring 9' 6 3/4" is based on a 7-1/4" eave board. I'm only getting 9' 3 3/4". Open your auto roof dialog and switch to structure tab. Change the last "Eave Fascia" to 11" instead of 7-1/4". Now I'm at exactly 9 feet. Last. Just because your exterior is wrapped in 11" fascia doesn't mean your roof is 11". Every picture you've shown me looks at most to be 2x8 framing. The porch wall is 9' tall, but the room inside is only 100"? How do the interior 11" floor rafters bear? Look at Picture 5 - the top plate of the french door wall runs under the electrical wire, no where near 11" below the subfloor. Same picture #5, look to the upper right rafters. those tails appear to rest on the outer edge of the subfloor. If we came back plumb with the inside wall below and measured up from the subfloor those rafters appear to be 2-1/2" above the subfloor. (the height of the bonus room that made the roof work.) Hope this helps.

Your outside photo verifies the gutter differential I was concerned about in my photo below and obviously the hip stays. Let's start over. See my notes based on an elevation view of the entire original building. On the second floor plan, I've numbered the steps you need to follow. . Switch back to the overall elevation view and you will find I'm a hair off. Coincidentally it matches your gable vent FYI - The 3" bonus room setting is what it took for the bonus and left bedroom roof planes to match. It was a matter of trial and error. The 1" was a starting point. Once you are done drawing exterior walls/roof, turn auto roofs/frame off and delete the dividing wall. Or put it on a different layer and turn it off, or just make it invisible. Just remember as long as it exists your room schedules will show the two rooms instead of one. And if you need to play with the roof again you need to add that dividing wall back again to make any changes. Hope this helps.

Hello, I looked at your plan this morning. My original method assumed you wanted this done with auto-roofs as much as possible based on the information you provided. To that end, renaming the attic wall to bonus (for example) makes it a real room and Chief will automatically raise the rafters and this gives you pretty much what you wanted. However, upon reviewing your plans, this creates a different problem that I will address later. First, we need to address your pictures. The room appears to be framed with 2x6 rafters. It also appears you are measuring your 10 inches to the roof sheathing, not from a 42" top of wall line. In fact your 10" is derived by measuring below the double top plate down from the sheathing. If those are 2x6 rafters, the ~7 1/4" plumb cut plus 3" top plates = 10 1/4" I overlayed these items on your cross section view. Is this correct? Is the other side framed with 2x12's to be at 3'6" or are those rafters furred to create a 3'6" measurement? I don't have pictures of that side, so I can't tell. . Back to my original proposed solution, renaming the attic room to bonus (for example) makes it a real room and Chief will now build the rafters on top of this one inch wall. Make sure the two end walls are gables, not hip. Then change the left wall to an 11.45 : 12 pitch. The result is 10 3/16", which is pretty close to what you original asked. I would lower the room to 13/16" and you should be at 10" exactly. However this doesn't match your pictures. And that porch with a hipped roof creates another problem. One that I solved initially by extending the bonus room over the porch. i can change the wall to a hip after I'm done with auto roofs. However the gutters will never match up unless the heel is raised over those garage rafters. Note, the model is missing some textures I don't have on my system. Please review and let me know your thoughts..

Create a room in that attic space that is 1" tall, no flat ceiling. That should raise the left attic wall and raise the lower rafter soffit.

https://www.houseplans.net/floorplans/04100263/modern-farmhouse-plan-2428-square-feet-3-bedrooms-2.5-bathrooms

Use a pony wall. Specify depth of top 4" concrete wall over a lower 8" concrete wall to establish brick ledge height. Use a different pattern for the lower 8" concrete wall used as brickledge and display both walls. And keep same pattern for 4" wall as you have for full height non-brickledge 8" walls.

AutoTurn Online.

Sorry, I was on mobile. Let me try and explain it better. Currently you have "room supplied by floor below" for your garage. Then you split your foundation for the rear walkout under strescore slab. This works fine for the front garage, but you want two floors on that side of the garage and "room supplied by floor below" dictates one floor at whichever height you set it. I was suggesting you add an invisible wall between front and rear garages like so, Change to foundation level and Open that rear garage room. Uncheck "Room supplies Floor for the Room Above" . Change your rough ceiling from 8" to 10' 1-3/4" (per your details above) In our area, garage floor is 12" below top of wall (TOW). So what I did above now looks like this. Based on your pictures, I changed the front garage room "Floor to SWT = 0" and added the glass panel door. One problem with this method is your rear garage places the slab on top of the wall, while the front garage slab is captured inside the foundation wall. The slab on top of the wall extends the siding down to the lower top of wall in that area. The problem compounds if your strescore slabs are like ours, 8-10" thick hollowcore slab w/ 2-4" topping poured over it to be level with garage floor and you change your floor definition here to include the 8" stresscore slab below the garage slab. I forget the steps that could eliminate this. Instead I looked back at the houses we've built with those strescore slabs and it appears I've always let the foundation supply the floor for the room above and then manually built the stresscore slabs underneath the garage slab and manually built the lower floor slab (including the brickledge details for the strescore slabs to bear on. Here's a quick example. I hope this helps.

You need an invisible wall defining the storage area separate from the garage. It will have a slab floor and the room under it will have its own floor.

Using walls create a 3' high room under the curve. Specify a gable roof at a slope that meets the entry wall where you want the curve to end. Strip down the roof plane with 0" overhangs and eaves. Then specify the curve and change roof plane materials to match your exterior finish. You will need auto roofs turned off to change the roofing material.

Using a polyline solid, make the box you want to subtract an inch or two bigger than the object it is being subtracted from. For instance, if the opening you need is 12 high x 80" long, in a box that is 24" deep, then make the box you will be subtracting 28" deep (extending 2" past the polygon to remain in the front & rear directions) This is the result after I added (4) "Fire 6" objects from Modern No.1 Fireplaces Library (evenly spaced to give the 2D fire depth.). Additionally, that same library has a couple of glass fireplaces that appear similar to what you've described. I added 3D "Flame 6" to both fireplaces. I really can't tell what you are trying to achieve from your description and PDF. From the Aquafire website, These images are 3 sided, not four sided This image is 4 sided, but lacks any glass detailing around the fireplace This image is see-thru, which is similar to what I drew using poly object subtraction .

Check "Higher Eaves Boxed" in your roof dialog and that will fix your issue. Your extension becomes the lowest eave on that side of the building.

Great, now the CPU will need weekly updates...

The text box is too narrow. Set it to auto width. And unless you speak Hindi change "shelfves" to shelves.

For #2, send the full plan @ 1'=100' to SK4 On SK4 select the oversized layout box and copy in place. Select one of the boxes and move it right or left until both boxes are side by side. Select bottom of left box and crop up to midpoint. Select top of right box amd crop down to midpoint. Keep left on SK4 move right to SK5. Now whatever you draw will appear on the proper page. To align the boxes on each page. Set the box on SK4 where you want it. Draw a control line starting at the upper right corner off at a 45 degree angle. Copy and paste in place to SK5. Move box on SK5 to match upper right corner with starting point of your line. (Draw a temp line on your plan so you know which items are appearing on SK4 vs SK5, and this will also let you know if you need to adjust the matchpoint location.) For #1, open up a cad detail box. Draw your "map scale with bar graph" to real world dimensions 1" = 25', 50', 75', 100', 200' Send this to each layout page at 1"=100' and it should match and serve as a map scale for your subdivision layouts.

What if you raise the ceiling height, mull the Unit then lower the ceiling height?

You beat me to it Eric. Additionally you can use a pony normal wall at 6" for the sill (turn off baseboard) and add thresholds to the panels to create a sill cap. Don't check railing and glass will appear above. Units can be mulled.

Looks good. Just need your beams, simpson straps & ties, and pier footings

The county GIS maps, if you are downloading them in dxf format contain the bearing and distance informations in the lines themselves. Turn on distance and angles for each line and set cad to decimal feet and quadrant bearings. Like @SHCanada2 said in Chief you draw real world dimensions. The send to layout whatever scale you desire. Here's a 34 lot subdivision I drew in Chief. The engineer and I traded dxf files back and forth during the course of construction. So now Chief includes all the sewer, water, gas lines. I was even able to get dxfs from the electrical company for all their transformers and conductor line routes.

Change the pitch on your new 3 walls to 2/12. That should keep you under your other windows. Slowly raise pitch until it is the max height you want it to be. (Pitches don't have to be whole numbers, FYI) Second, draw the room 2' to the right of where you want it to be. This will help you get the roof right, then you can move the walls 2' left once you like what you see. Third, keep the new room separate from the existing porch. You need to keep the original left wall a gable and the new left wall needs to be hipped. Keeping the existing front porch wall there makes sure the change in roofing stays aligned.

That's some next level thinking. I've always done it as @JKEdmo explained it. Thanks.

HELPFUL #1 The files we receive from surveyors are based on the distance from a state plane's origin (0,0, altitude). There are 124 state planes in the US. Long story short, they eliminate having to account for the curvature of the earth over longer distances. Here in Ohio we have two state planes, 3401 and 3402. We build in both. A plot plan created and exported for 3401 will appear correctly on a gis map (including google) if you tie it to 3401 state plane. We have a new project in 3402 out near Lake Choctaw, London Ohio. We shot the property pins. Imported DXF to Chief, drew our plot plan, foundation, driveway location and then exported a dxf from Chief and imported it into our 3402 based project file. We walked the site last week, verified the property pins still matched up amd then staked our foundation and driveway centerlines. Here's what happens when you import the dxf into a 3401 based project. Notice the plot plan appears up in Toledo Ohio on Rogers street, southwest of the intersection of Woodville Rd & Navarre Ave. Thats how helpful the origin is in this instance.

I thought when you stacked compression methods the result needed to be decompressed in reverse order.