JiAngelo

Based on the text. Tell Chief the upper story is 3' tall. No ceiling, but roof is checked. Ignoring the gambrel option, how soon do you want the upper story room to have 8' ceilings? A 12/12 pitch on all 4 sides (hipped roof) means the middle ~6' x 50' area of the 16' x 60' upper story is 8' tall. And a 12/12 pitch on only.the 60' walls and gable ends on the 16' walls means the middle ~6'x59' area is 8' tall and both 16' endwalls will allow windows. It matters not what you want your overhangs to be. Turn off auto roofs and tell chief the upper room is 8' tall. A dashed line will appear where your 8' ceiling starts to slope downward. And you can lower or raise your pitches to lessen or widen the available 8' ceiling high space. Are dormers an option on the hipped roof walls?

The truss design is called a space frame. http://www.cnxzlf.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/235.jpg Here's the original architects elevation, roof plan & sections pages The building is actually 15'5" tall to top of parapets (which are less than 2' above the roof steel decking.).

Sorry, I wasn't in front of my computer last night. There is actually a 3' parapet wall around the perimeter of this building. My phone didn't zoom in close enough for me to see it. If curtain wall is 20' tall, then Nook = 20' tall, and Study = 16' tall. Then make the upper porch room walls visible and pull them back to align with the Study perimeter walls. Specify the room is 3' tall, no roof, no ceiling. Also make your gables/overhangs 2". Here's what I drew up this morning - (fresh cup of coffee, tunes down low so as not to wake the wife ) Temporarily I made the Study perimeter walls railings with bottom rail 12' high to define a 4' area for those tubular trusses to be built within. I also specified 6" round posts to ceiling @ 20' on center, but these posts won't align with my curtain glass wall which I created using framing 4' on center. (I copied/modified the Glass Shower wall.) Similarly I tried creating a 4' on center exterior mullion frame over the glass, but that framing won't match up with the studs behind the glass. Chief does its own thing here. Lastly I started on the tubular trusses using a 4" 3d solid, but the pattern is even more difficult than I original thought. Need to think about this a bit more. But it is definitely doable in Chief. I found the floorplan and some other interior images online. It actually looks like trusses running in 3 different directions.

Easiest way to create a flat roof is tell chief the default pitch is 1/4" over 12 with 2" overhangs. (These need to be wide enough to stick beyond exterior wall finishes) Another way is to create a floor above, no roof, no ceiling, and make all perimeter walls invisible. But then you have to add your own counterflashing around the perimeter and create your tapered slopes. OR make all perimeter walls solid rails 2" tall with 0" newels. Then add a 1x cap to those walls. Tell chief the room is named Porch. It will make the floor 4" concrete (a clean known height that we can adjust later ) Paint the concrete floor your desired EPDM color and also paint those 2" wall & cap to match or paint them your counterflashing color. You can deal with EPDM slope and drains later. Now that you have your building shell.... draw another set of perimeter walls 1 foot inside all the way around. Make this wall invisible it is your tubular roof trusses perimeter support wall. The outer perimeter walls are your curtain walls. I picked one foot based on your pictures. Name the 1' perimeter wall room Nook. Name the interior room Study. On the nook perimeter walls, you can now create floor to ceiling windows OR You can create a new wall named GlassWall and set its framing the spacing of your glass. Next; follow Mtldesigns advice on building the trusses with solids or moldings. it is an 8 point offset lattice with 1 and 5 running 45 degrees across the Z axis to connect 3D to every other truss. This is in addition to 2&8 and 4&6 connecting 2D every other truss. 3&6 representing the top or bottom chord of each truss. Again, the 8 point nodes on the bottom are offset from the 8 point nodes on the top. Struts 1&5 run -45 degrees from top node to bottom of adjacent truss offset node. Update: there are 2 more struts on the z-axis extending above or below 3&6 as well.

Nice. Now add connecting roof here with valleys and slope to end 6" below window line.

I had to look that up. RCP = Reflected Ceiling Plan is an electrical plan view of the ceiling fixtures only - often called a lighting plan. I think I've been using the term wrong. It's always been on jobs that had 2x2 or 2x4 grid ceilings. I went back to a commercial project we did last year. Our sprinkler guys used this page to mark up their proposed locations as well to make sure they didn't conflict with anything else planned for the ceiling. The term is actually used for any lighting plan, even on drywall ceilings. I watched the video DB linked and I think your teacher's want a plan view of the lighting only and the 3D view of the interior space. At the 22:10 mark when the speaker is duplicating the tray over the kitchen islands, their floorplan view doesn't have the light layer turned on. They keep switching to the 3D view and talking about the lights, but you can't see them in the 2D view. Turning this layer on and having a legend would give you a "lighting plan" similar to what I've posted above, just not as busy. Then a 3D view of the 2D area, like the left photo above would demonstrate a "realistic or rendered view style" of the RCP 2D view.

RCP is recessed ceiling panels. Typically 2'x2' or 2'x4' ceiling grid & tiles, including HVAC vents, Lights, Wifi, smokes, & sprinklers locations. Like a classroom or retirement home ceiling.

One's we create in field we specify feet during export. One's we receive from 3rd parties are most often in feet, but sometimes in inches. It happens often enough that I verify those at first import. You will need a known distance between two real world points. This could be a road width, sidewalk length, property line boundary, etc...

My questions are, 1. What if in 2D you picked a rafter or an object not readily visible in the perspective view? Do you spin the model around or zoom through walls to find it? What if the layer is off in 3D? (Several are by default) 2. What if in 3D you picked an object on a different level than the current 2D view? Or it is off screen? 3. In schedules we can select "find an object in plan." In 3D view, selecting an item and having this option seems feasible. But in 2D, which camera view? -Every one you have open? What orientation of an independent view would chief generate? - especially something inside a small closet or bathroom?

Check out section 604.

We import/export Autocad files. Tell chief which layers are elevation data and it creates the contours in perspective view.

Instead of "office" what about a car salesman's or banker style cubicles? Uline has many desk ideas. Build the desk space w/ either a sliding glass door or maybe a pocket door for more privacy? Below is the ADA bath, which also garners more room in the kitchen area. Just enough privacy to make some calls and hide a messy desk

Well, your new bathroom design doesn't meet ADA. (The first design needed the door reversed and enlarged to 32" clear space when opened. 42" clearance from centerline of toilet to edge of sink.) The 30x48 clear floor space allows door to swing in that otherwise impinges required clearances of toilet & sink. And your new kitchen hallway is too narrow. Note, your original kitchen size was actually too small to maneuver around all the items you listed in #5 above. (a refrigerator is 29" deep min. and base cabinets 26" with C-tops. So 18" between sink and refrigerator is all you have shown - this won't work.) Lastly, most businesses consider a clean bathroom to be a critical part of their brand and customer trust. I would think your kitchen would be maintained equally clean. And if so, your client would return to the conference table doubly impressed. Ultimately its simply your call. You could leave the shop door where it was and let that office be semi-private. Not sure how much shop traffic you have there.

9x8, 10x7, and 12x6 are about the smallest office with a door in/out that one can design. Less than that you are better off with two cubicles in a larger room but lose privacy. Your main problem is hallways eating up space to get to kitchen/bath from doors. The least intrusive option I'd choose would be to move the door to the shop. Relocate the kitchen area to be a passthrough to the bathroom. Should be easy to extend the sink plumbing. Hope this helps.

https://www.owenscorning.com/en-us/roofing/components/vent-calculator

Thanks Shayne, and my apologies Rob. Took me a minute to figure it out but that's pretty slick. Learn something new every day

Stretching on the Z-axis to thicken the roof joists also stretches the supports, their connections, the counterflashing depth & standing seam heights. Here, a 2'2" z-axis increase would put those supports into the roof overhang.

Open DBX for each foundation room and separately tell CA what you want in each foundation room. You may need to select the common wall between between house and post-frame and turn off its footings to get it to look like the pole barn and not the crawl walls. View it in 3d and raise this wall bottom to match monolithic wall bottom. I have to ask if the post-frame floor is flush with grade? Because the crawlspace joists & sill plate must be 6" above grade, so a 2x10 joist floor is actually 17.5" above grade, minimum. -i.e. not level with post-frame floor.

There are a couple of boxed awnings in the Bonus Catalog: Exterior Commercial Awnings. Here's one we used in the past. You can rotate it 180 degrees and inset it into the wall 4" to get a similar look. I've also used corbels upside down to achieve the same look. In the library there is one with supports that look like yours. If you copy and paste in place a second one, then offset it you get this. To increase the flat roof framing thickness create a solid or slab and color it to match. This avoids trying to create those decorative supports.

Additionally, ForteWeb shows a single 32' TJI 560 11-7/8" @ 12"oc should work as well. Another option would be (2) 32' TJI 560's 9-1/2" at either 12" or 16"oc. Costs more, but is 2" thinner in roof height. For the 8' beams supporting ~12' tributary span one side and ~16' tributary span other side, requires (2) 11 7/8" 2.0E ML's using top hangers. Using your framing image, here's your iso tapered ridges if you want to maintain the thinnest perimeter profile everywhere. And here's an alternate iso tapered ridge layout that requires building up the inset area noted. Chief should readily show you the first if you set your roof to 1/4" /12 slope. The second requires a bit more work I also think you could 14" I-joists on the interior 32'x23' room and save some tapered iso. (those would be flush with the bottom of the 11-7/8" and rise above 2-1/8") ForteWeb actually says (1) 14" TJI 560's @ 19.2"oc can span 32', which would then have all your rafters running left/right and make it easier to run MEPs. Hope this helps.

Take a look at these P3 I-joist span charts. On page 30 the PJI 90 series 11-7/8" spans 32' @ 12"oc. You could run the rafters left to right on the porch only and eliminate the steel beam. Your (2) columns would be supporting heavier 8' beams back to the house with rafters hangered on each side. Lesser series will work elsewhere. On a side note, minimum flat roof slope is 1/4" per foot, so your 2" tapered iso is only good for about 6' (min. 1/2" req.) Your going to need ~4-3/4" to ridge front to back, then hip the sides. 02-P3-Joist-User-Guide-US.pdf

The 32' span is your biggest hurdle. Deflection will likely require steel to be greater than 12" tall. I know glulams would be greater than 16" based on another job we just sized. ForteWeb.com will allow you to run some calculations yourself. Maybe (4) columns spaced 6'-24'-6' would work. That would keep the posts out of the triple door openings line of sight. Headers in the ceiling over patio doors negates cantilevering (which would lessen the load actually on the steel beam.) Uplift would still be concern. Give it to an engineer and see what they have to say. Why be embarrassed? You're at the point where you need his input to refine your plan.

FWIW - I've never been able to slide windows or doors closer than 2" to one another. I can paste one beside another and the distance is then 0 between them.

Joe, when you say "all floors are at relative elevations to sea level." Don't you mean all floors are relative to the terrain and you've given your terrain a relative sea level value? I ask this because Chief maintains level 1 floor relative to the terrain. We built a 3 story house 10 years back with a 2 level basement. 2x10 joists. Our desired CA levels were as follows; 0 = Cellar = ‐22' 11.5" below 1st Floor 1 = Basement = ‐10' 11.5" below 1st Floor 2 = 1st Floor = 0 3 = 2nd Floor = 10' 11-1/8" above 1st Floor 4 = 3rd Floor = 20' 10-1/4" above 1st Floor. Level 2, 1st Floor, was 2' 11.5 above Terrain. So we had to tell chief Level 1 was -8' from the Terrain. This placed Level 2 exactly where we wanted it in relation to the terrain being 814.33 above sea level. It also set our cellar floor to 794.67 and cellar walkout patio at 794.00 (top of footers being 794.33 everywhere else.) Back then I created an excel sheet to track the elevations and overwrote our story pole values because it measures everything relative to CA level 1. I'm fairly certain you'd create a macro variable that would handle this discrepancy automatically. Long story short, if you insert a level between your plan's 0 and 1, making your first Floor now on.level 2, then tell chief your terrains relationship to new level 1 so that it is the proper height below.level 2, then all of your sea level measurements as they relate to the terrain should then be correct. Anything referencing level 1 would be off the distance terrain is above this level. I hope this helps.

Follow Robert's instructions. I used "Input Line" versus "Input Point" and you need to ignore Chief's rounding errors that it creates when drawing something so far away from the origin. To lessen the errors, open a new plan. Copy the above polygon and pasted it near the origin in the new plan. then import your pdf and change the CAD layer to RED. Now resize the PDF 10x and point-to-point moved it to match up the property borders with the red cad box. Note I changed the cad layer line weight to 1000 and also locked the PDF layer. Now you can create a terrain and place elevation points and splines that match up with those your plot plan. Note, the house isn't parallel to any of the lot lines. It is parallel to the front fence line. And here is your local government's GIS site map https://maps.rockhamptonregion.qld.gov.au/HTML5Viewer/?layerTheme=Contours You can turn off the PDF and paste that image instead. Resize it to match the red cad box and now you can figure out approximately where all the trees are in relation to the house. . I hope this helps. Again if your surveyor could send you a dxf/dwg file then you could import that and everything will show up in its exact location. I've added the X15 files for you to play around with. RealWorldPlotPlan.plan OriginPlotPlan-PDFGISimages.plan