JiAngelo

Your rafters are 2x10s. On an 8/12 pitch, the vertical plumb cut depth is approximately 11 1/8" Forgot to add that you didn't show the plan. You may have some other roof intersections that are raising the roof planes so that the facia plane out all around the building.

I think the only thing the surveyor cleaned up was the boundary on BDRY2. Points() layer is still grouped as a cad block.in Layer 0. I forgot that if you don't specify anything as a terrain, but you do specify a Layer that does have elevation data present, Chief will automatically add a terrain that encompasses all the elevation data. Import the file and only specify contours as elevation data. I work on a white background, most Surveyors use black. I've changed the Terrain Layer to Color Orange with Line Weight 1000. On the BDRY2 layer, I change it to Color Blue & Line Weight 1000 (which initially does nothiing because every surveyor has this unchecked and yellow individually.) Select each BDRY2 lot perimeter line and in the dbx check Line Style boxes Color, Style & Weight. Close dbx and the lines should change to Blue & 1000. You should see this. With regard to the green circles, The bottom arc doesn't run to the end, it straightens out and you need to change that line to Blue 1000 too. At the upper left circler there are two lines that I'd seen in the file earlier. You can ignore them, or move them out of the way temporarily. Now that the perimeter has all blue lines with the same Styles checked, select on at the corners and it will connect to the adjacent blue lines automatically. Do this at each disconnected corner until you see a closed boundary for your lot perimeter. Notice the Terrain perimeter doesn't cover the entire lot - because there is no elevation data in those corners. Notice below your contour lines don't reach the ends of your lot. Chief guesses (extrapolates) what to do where no data is present and it rarely guesses what you'd like to see. Typically I'd reshape my terrain perimeter to match the lot + 5-10 feet at the sides and rear, maybe 30-60' at the front to show the road. The easiest way is to first drag each corner to a lot corner. Which then becomes this. Note you could have simply deleted the terrain, copied the lot perimeter in place and changed that polygon to a terrain if you wanted the curves to match. Open a 3D Camera and Chief will generate the contours as best it can with the data thus far. When you go back to the 2D drawing you will see these contours. At this point I'd probably give up on my surveyor and since I didn't import the Points() layer as data, I would place some elevation points on those X's. I don't care if they are slightly off. Make sure CAD is set to Ft, decimal feet, with precision 3 decimal places (I usually have quadrant bearing turn on as well.) and add the macro to show elevation label. Here's what you should see. I'm not so concerned with the rear lot contours. But the 52' contour line that is running under the Makalulu text I extended past the perimeter edges so that it wouldn't create a circle. these random extensions cross one another. Below is all layers off with contours, bdry2 and terrain perimeter turned on. (easier to see what you are doing) Now, wherever I'm planning to build and I need finer point data (or at the lot corners & road, where it is missing data, I would copy the elev point to those locations and change the value. I copy it because it already is set up for how I want to see the data formatted & displayed. Place as many points as you actually need. I also add a 1' tall fence along the side property lines and the road so that my 3D view looks like this. This way when i start drawing a building I have some perspective on how close it is to the road and side lot lines in 3D views. I hope this helps.

Actually, import with Contours as elevation data and you will find the data is there on Contours. The one I selected says 49' If you zoom in you will see your points(4-13-24) fall between the correct contours. Unfortunately, your going to need to call him back and tell him "unblock everything" includes everything, not just some things. Everything on Points(4-13-24) is still in blocks on Layer 0. And Chief doesn't assign elevation data to a block. Red circle is his block of points(4-13-24) data, still blocked up on Layer 0.. Green circle is after I unblocked one group. It contains 4 objects. Chief needs them unblocked to read the data. Technically the elevation "X" point & Point.ELEVATION data (49.505) should be on its own layer. Point.NUMBER (129) and Point.NAME (GD) should be on separate layers. At least that's how my equipment exports them and Chief loves it. And if he doesn't move Point.NUMBER to another layer, you may find an elevation 129' and 49.505' right beside one another. If you tell Chief Points(4-13-24) is elevation data, when you import now the "X" disappears, but no values are set because the data is in a block In case he still doesn't get it, show him this. This is a block of points(4-13-24) data. Notice it is also on Layer 0 (as a Cad block). You can only turn it off by selecting Layer 0. Selecting the points() does nothing. And show him this. This is after I unblocked the group. Notice they all now exist individually on only the points(4-13-24) layer. Pro Tip - the Boundary is on BDRY2, and true to form, it isn't closed. In fact it's nowhere close. The BLACK and RED lines don't share a common point, so they can't join with one another. The GREEN line has no "Polylines, Label" Layer so it can't join with either Black or Red, which do have a "Polylines, Label" Layer. And I don't know if the YELLOW line means this is two lots, but it has no "Polylines, Label" Layer either and neither BLACK or RED have breaks in their lines where YELLOW meets them.. Chief requires all to be the same to connect automatically. This just means you are going to have to draw that terrain perimeter yourself. Not the end of the world, but just maddening when surveying is all about precision. Hope this helps.

The surveyor needs to unblock everything on Layer 0. Your points() layer is importing as a block on Layer 0. Select one and you can only hide it by turning off Layer 0. Turning off the points() Layer does nothing until you unblock an object on Layer 0. Chief can't read points data within a blocked object. Contact your surveyor and have him send you the unblocked model. He exported his plan view. Also, the unit of import is Feet.

Pretty sure this isn't a scale problem. Phone gps apps are only accurate to +/-16ft radius. That's +/-16ft at each point you measure. The error distance grows if obstructions exist - trees, clouds, adjacent structures. The quality of the phone's internals affect this as well. If you stood on two points that you know are 100' apart and shot 157', find a third point that is a known set distance from the first two points. Best if 【1-3】does not equal 【2-3】 . Go out there with a 100ft tape and pick one. Calculate (Actual Distance) / (Recorded distance) values for points【1-2】, 【1-3】 and 【2-3】, if they dont all equal 100/157 then you can't scale. I would wager if you shot 【1-2】 again you'd get a different number.

Jim, Place a point at your radius center. Select the object you wish to copy, choose "About current point", select # of copies, and specify an angle, If you don't like the results, CNTRL Z and repeat, choose a different +/- radius to get the spacing right and number of copies needed. You can start from one side, but I generally start in the middle then mirror the results when I get the angle set to spacing it how I want. Hope this helps.

Jim, I haven't used the 3D viewer for a while, but the elevation problem had me thinking I had some setting wrong. I use reference display most often when remodeling, like referencing different addition ideas against the existing house. I use 3d models more often than I should due to habit and for many of the advantages @DBCooper listed.

In a 3d camera view of your plan export to a collada .DAE file. Then import the .DAE file as a 3D model and it will add it to your user library. Place this model in your terrain plan. One shortcoming of this method is if you make changes to the floorplan you need to export a new model and replace it the terrain file. That applies to every model. A better option is to use the reference plan tools. Similar to referencing an upper or lower floor, you can reference an entire plan file. Then if you update a floorplan, when you reopen your terrain file it will update its reference plan files.

if the red lines is the roof plane you want then I think you need invisible walls to create the green boxed rooms at a matching height with the porch M.

You already have a terrain. Look at your layer set image. The Terrain Perimeter has a plus sign indicating this is so. You can either delete it, then try converting the polyline, or break the edges of the existing terrain and drag them to each polyline point location until you've matched your desired shape. The error message is to let you know the surveyors file is based on real world dimensions. If you choose "ignore", any work you do will be at the real world location and can be exported back to your surveyor or any gis devices you may have for immediate use. When you chose "move", everything is relocate to the origin. Any work you do would require the surveyor open your export, then cut and paste your changes to his real world location to use with his devices.

Import as meters. 1.5m=1500mm

I think X8 opens earlier files

That was it. Thanks Jim.

Hello, I have a house I'm designing and when I select a wall the option to build framing is missing. On the left is a new plan and when I select a wall the option appears (circled in green) But in my current plan, the option is missing (circled in red.) Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

The earlier pictures were from the Murphy Door Company. Your problem is the assymetric nature of the doors on the wall. It would be nice if you.could balance the single doors to either side of the French. Then.come up with an asymmetrical pattern that appeals to you. Etsy and Pinterest are full of ideas. Many can be purchased as kits. Don't limit yourself to traditional 1x4 library panel designs.

Like this?

1. There's a post in the picture you provided. Remember that's when you couldn't explain it so you provided pictures to say it for you. 2. The code required backspan to cantilever span ratio is 2:1. This means you need 8' of joist inside the home to cantilever 4' (for example.) 3. Your cantilever ends have roof load additionally on them as well. Good luck.

I don't agree with the choices you made, but I think I understand why. To address what you have drawn, first, I extended your basement walls to under the stairs. Changed those outside walls to pony walls with rail top to header and post only on the corner. Added a floor in that room with grass as the covering. Showing floor at -28" temporarily. Then I selected these two walls. And lower the bottom in the stairwell to match the rest of the wall. Then I went to your stairwell and lower the tops of the same wall portions inside the stairwell This eliminates those walls in the stairwell, placing them below the stairwell floor so that you can still see stucco outside. Your gaps between top of lower stair and landing, and the one between raised foyer floor and rest of home are due to how you chose to build the home. I personally would have built the stairwell shaft level with first floor w/ balloon walls and used a stair landing. Then dealt with that outside portion of the stairwell a little differently, but to achieve the same results.

The orange needs to be floor1. It's room's floor supplied by level below. The yellow and blue are floor 0 with floor ~8" below stemwall. Step your blue as required.

How long is ridge beam span inside the building? How far is it cantilevering past the windows to support the prow? And is there a king post under the ridge beam splitting the window into separate units?

Build the shed dormer with the appropriate ceiling height and roof pitch that meets at or below the existing peak.

I think @Garybills is correct. 10° is about a 2/12 pitch. A cantilevered canopy over the front door and balcony.

My problem is the materials selected. For instance, James Hardie lap siding reports in linear feet, as does Certainteed's D5 Monogram siding. My contractors charge by the square foot. Changing all the walls to stucco or Certainteed Board & Batten would give me the correct square footage, but it is easier for me to add a 0 width layer for paint to the siding walls and get their square footage when necessary. I can ignore the paint color if I don't need it. (And its not a paint color anyone ever selects inside the home.)

Don't laugh, but I often add a 0 thickness layer to either side of my wall's framing and assign it Sherwin Williams colors. SW7100 for exterior and SW7000 for interiors. Material report gives me the square footage of the paint colors and I export it to an XLS that SUMIF's the paint colors to give me the overall total. I use @basketballman's method to verify.