JiAngelo

That was it. Thanks Jim.

Hello, I have a house I'm designing and when I select a wall the option to build framing is missing. On the left is a new plan and when I select a wall the option appears (circled in green) But in my current plan, the option is missing (circled in red.) Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

The earlier pictures were from the Murphy Door Company. Your problem is the assymetric nature of the doors on the wall. It would be nice if you.could balance the single doors to either side of the French. Then.come up with an asymmetrical pattern that appeals to you. Etsy and Pinterest are full of ideas. Many can be purchased as kits. Don't limit yourself to traditional 1x4 library panel designs.

Like this?

1. There's a post in the picture you provided. Remember that's when you couldn't explain it so you provided pictures to say it for you. 2. The code required backspan to cantilever span ratio is 2:1. This means you need 8' of joist inside the home to cantilever 4' (for example.) 3. Your cantilever ends have roof load additionally on them as well. Good luck.

I don't agree with the choices you made, but I think I understand why. To address what you have drawn, first, I extended your basement walls to under the stairs. Changed those outside walls to pony walls with rail top to header and post only on the corner. Added a floor in that room with grass as the covering. Showing floor at -28" temporarily. Then I selected these two walls. And lower the bottom in the stairwell to match the rest of the wall. Then I went to your stairwell and lower the tops of the same wall portions inside the stairwell This eliminates those walls in the stairwell, placing them below the stairwell floor so that you can still see stucco outside. Your gaps between top of lower stair and landing, and the one between raised foyer floor and rest of home are due to how you chose to build the home. I personally would have built the stairwell shaft level with first floor w/ balloon walls and used a stair landing. Then dealt with that outside portion of the stairwell a little differently, but to achieve the same results.

The orange needs to be floor1. It's room's floor supplied by level below. The yellow and blue are floor 0 with floor ~8" below stemwall. Step your blue as required.

How long is ridge beam span inside the building? How far is it cantilevering past the windows to support the prow? And is there a king post under the ridge beam splitting the window into separate units?

Build the shed dormer with the appropriate ceiling height and roof pitch that meets at or below the existing peak.

I think @Garybills is correct. 10° is about a 2/12 pitch. A cantilevered canopy over the front door and balcony.

My problem is the materials selected. For instance, James Hardie lap siding reports in linear feet, as does Certainteed's D5 Monogram siding. My contractors charge by the square foot. Changing all the walls to stucco or Certainteed Board & Batten would give me the correct square footage, but it is easier for me to add a 0 width layer for paint to the siding walls and get their square footage when necessary. I can ignore the paint color if I don't need it. (And its not a paint color anyone ever selects inside the home.)

Don't laugh, but I often add a 0 thickness layer to either side of my wall's framing and assign it Sherwin Williams colors. SW7100 for exterior and SW7000 for interiors. Material report gives me the square footage of the paint colors and I export it to an XLS that SUMIF's the paint colors to give me the overall total. I use @basketballman's method to verify.

Thanks Rob. It was actually on the Layer Text Style for camera layer and on Framing, Labels for the beams. Thanks again, I'd have never found it. Merry Christmas.

I'm still on X16. I have a house we designed that is across the street from another house in the same subdivision. Long story short, I drew this house upside down (front door facing north.) In plan view, I had rotated the drawing so that front door faced south and continued finishing the house plans. Whenever I created a new room, the label was upside down initially and I simply rotated it 180 degrees to match my plans orientation. Now that I'm finishing my layouts, I've noticed the callouts and framing labels are all upside down and there appears to be no way to rotate these. Am I missing something? Merry Christmas.

Rename the 3rd floor room "open below"?

I'm not at my computer, but if FFE is 32" above terrain, and you are using 2x10 floor joists and 1.5" sill on concrete blocks walls, then label the room you want the ramp inside as a garage with floor -4.5 below stem wall (or just check floor supplied by foundation below and change floor height.) 10"+1.5"+4.5" =16" below FFE. Then install ramp inside this room from 0" to 16".

Lower the floor to lower ramp height. Then place the ramp in the room sloping up to the highest ramp height. (Generally the default floor height)

Think of it as an extrapolation error. Chief doesn't see the intersection correctly and extends a wall material to hide it using the default siding color. If the house was default blue you wouldn't know chief had cleaned it up. Similar to some of the crazy attic walls shapes Chief sometimes draws.

The different colors is because one is the default wall siding blue color and the others you have painted white. Either paint the blue one white or change the default wall siding color to white.

Create a 3D gable end solid intersecting a cylinder solid set to intersection at desired radius. Subtract cylinder from gable end arch. Then position as desired.

Copy and paste it on the second floor.

Check and see if they were imported as a block. You.may need to explode it into individual parts. My engineers have a bad habit of doing this.

With autoroofs on, draw an invisible room under the sloped area. Break the outside wall and tell chief the invisible rooms exterior wall is high shed gable. Once autoroofs is turned off you can delete the invisible walls. Choosing between manual or autoroofs method comes down to how far along in the process I am.

Bob, I fired up X12, worked exclusively on the CTF4 version. I raised the roof 12" to allow headers over those windows and used an 8.5" pitch, adjusting the dormer room to fit. I then switched to the second floor and drew a truss, changed it to Attic, then opened the detail and increased the middle bottom chord to 9-1/4" (the floor). I copied the trusses, using a 4-ply at each end to support the joists under the dormers. On the deck side, I held the dormer back a few feet to keep the hip look with larger windows. The attic space is a little over 600sf and you can reach it using your original stairwell, but the head height doesn't work on the landing. I've attached the X12 file. CR WILLIAMS for CTF4-X12.zip