ACADuser

A short explanation of how to back up the custom tool bars may help.

This may be interesting to you programmers as a tool. https://www.autohotkey.com/ If you want to automate more on your computer, then AutoHotkey is something you need to download. It's a custom scripting tool that let you define your own commands, making it as useful as whatever you can dream up. A few tools you may also be interested in. https://www.makeuseof.com/new-windows-pc-must-have-applications-to-install-first/

Maybe one of these will help. Did not try it myself. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/3537-stair-solution360-and-greater-spiral-stair-video-by-yusuf/?do=findComment&comment=30434 https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/3706-smooth-curved-railing-video-by-yusuf/?do=findComment&comment=31829

That'll save some time! Thanks

Does the manufacture offer a 3D file?

After that check the floor height maybe need -4" Then check your floor structural thickness, you may need to adjust to manage ceiling height below.

When the problem raised it head it saw an attic wall protruding through the roof, see picture. So then I removed the flat ceiling for the wine room & added a manual ceiling, no help. What I did not realize is the walls exterior surface was into the wine room. Once the wall was reversed I went to the attic & dragged the hall attic wall down & the offset attic wall was removed by Chief. The dragged the attic wall right to close the room off & it built correctly. Thank for trouble shooting it for me.

Having trouble with the Wine Room Ceiling. The main area is a vaulted ceiling but the wine room should have a 12' MOL flat ceiling. The adjoining attic wall will not build, see picture. I tried adding a ceiling plane & tried setting the wall to build through ceiling. Might be the pony wall. Just can't get it to cooperate. Before I did all that the attic wall built through the roof about 4 feet. I will be out for a few hours. Thanks Barn 2.zip

Show off! Thanks Robert, after I added room divider in the corner of the Common area & the closet below and playing whack-a-mole with the ceiling heights for 2 hours I finally got it, I think. The wall did not build correctly in the corner but I can add studs to fill that. Thanks again.

This is one of those remodel houses where the 1st floor ceiling is 8' & 10'. I've chased those floor heights & have finally got them correct. But the south 8' wall framing will not build correctly & I lost one of my 2nd floor walls in the area. I have a ceiling plane defining the new 8' ceiling at the junction of the old & new portions of the house. Anyone have a clue as to what is causing the framing to build short of 8'? Gomez.zip

Thanks Michael

Room addition with frame wall, see picture. I've already created the plan but wanted this wall shown. Should I use pony wall or just add a material region to create the lower large ship lap siding?

I tend to only use 24" wide doors I closets & some tight toilet rooms. They seem too small but I'm 240# & 6'. Do you use them for rooms other than closets.

Thanks that helped. It was a new project layout file reused and I did not look at enough sheets. It was on sheet 22.

I have a copied layout file & somewhere in it is a link to the old plan file. How do you find that linked item to delete it? I remember Michael giving advice in the past but can not find that post.

I almost never change from 1". Too lazy I guess.

From Tech Support This is due to the thickness of the wall in relation to the nudge distance. As you know, walls will automatically connect to one another, but the distance in which a given wall will "reach out" to automatically connect is determined by the wall's thickness; thicker walls will automatically snap further than thinner walls will. As a result of this behavior, most walls will remain connected because the nudge distance (default 1") is sufficient to allow the walls to automatically connect (which is what we're actually seeing when the walls extend automatically when nudging, they're not "sticky", they're auto-reconnecting every nudge.). With that, there are ultimately two solutions to allow this behavior to work automatically in the manner we see it with other walls: 1) reduce the Snap grid size to something small enough to allow a 0" wall to automatically reconnect. In testing, this seems to be anything less than 1". The downside, of course, is that a snap grid of 1/2" is not entirely convenient to use. 2) increase the thickness of the room divider wall. Because Room dividers default to 0", it doesn't take a lot to overshoot them. Re-defining them to increase their thickness to even 1/8" will move them within the snap threshold of the 1" snap grid distance. A different trick to use is to select and drag the divider as you normally would to manually pull the wall to a new location, but before releasing the mouse button, tap the Tab key once. This activates an Input dialog, allowing you to enter the exact distance you want the wall to move, and because we're dragging the wall, not nudging it, wall connections will be maintained.

I started a report with tech support.

This does not happen with other walls. Arrow is set to 1" is the "auto connect threshold" a setting that I can change?

See picture, When I use the arrow key to move the room divider south the wall disconnects from the other room dividers. Is that normal?

Reading further I believe you will need to install a hand rail on that side.

This is my take.

See how ChopSaw dealt with it.

We've been wanting this for some time.

If you have on one sheet a 1/4":1' and 1/2":1' and 1":1' how do you compensate for the the dashed lines? While you are creating the views you need to see the line types as they will appear on the drawing sheet. I've been sending to layout with "Use Layout Line Scaling" off & depending on scale of each detail for line weight & type.