ACADuser

Thanks You Sir.

Yes, looks like Chief know which is the interior side then adds / plus the exterior side room.

When a window is adjacent to a balcony that name is appended. Any way to trim that off, see W8 & W9

Good Idea. This is what I have so far.

Duh, wish I had thought of that! A little awkward on the plans. But I'm off to try it.

So when we are late in the project & the client wants to add windows I do not want to reorder the schedule. It would be great is we could have W14 and new W14a or W14.1 so the windows call outs don't change down stream of W14. This causes confusion for any take offs done by the GC or window supplier. Any way to deal with this?

Gene, One million+ dollars seems too good to be true. I've only done plans for 7 stories. So 12 is out of my comfort zone. Hope you find someone. This project never happened, the 7 story was dropped & changed to 4 story over a parking garage. That too failed to be built due to cost.

Wow, that is nice. Thanks

I'm with you, the metal wrap can be a headache. I'm concerned about oil canning when the metal is too thin.

I have a client that wants black trim on the balcony face. See below the tile edge I specified. The face is 18" tall. I was looking for something smooth. What would you recommend?

Masons forgot the add embedded Simpson straps to the interior CMU beam. I removed then from the detail just now. There is no uplift, so do the trusses have to be attached to the beam? I know it is good practice but the floor & ceiling will hold then in place. I added the strap to the deadwood already present to catch drywall.

Thanks Bob, I do have a copy of Forte. I use it for beams so I'll take a look at the framing tools. I tried a room divider but I see the wall needs to be a CMU invisible wall.

Thanks Joe. I'm using TJI for floor systems & 2x8 for roof rafters. The ceiling joist vary from 2x4 to 2x8 SYP. I'm using ridge boards so the ceiling joist have to overlap at interior bearing walls for tension loads. The rear porch will need a ridge beam for vaulted ceiling. The red is the existing portion of the house.

We are having long lead times for trusses so the builder is wanting to go with conventional framing. Any tips for framing floors & roofs with Chief? I'll drag out the span tables for sizing but it varies from place to place on the house. Do you folks pick worst case & spec that size for almost all locations? And how to floor frame with concrete pier foundations? There is no "room" def on the foundation level. Going back to Old School Building!

Mick, That very nice of you. Great job. Thanks

Thanks fro the tips. I stuck this on the wall for now.

LOL, Looks like a Zebra caught in a blender. The contractor wants to show in the a new house but I'll bet the owner rejects it. But I need to show it one time.

Anyone have this pattern or something like it?

From tech support: The reason for the jog in parapet walls on those two sides above the entry is because the entry room is marked to have a flat ceiling over it and so that adds structure to the height of that room, whereas the adjoining rooms don’t have that ceiling structure. A quick solution would be to open the room specification, go to the structure panel, and uncheck the box for flat ceiling over this room. Then use the ceiling plane tool in the roof tools to manually draw in a ceiling plane.

Never had a rejection from Building review but have had one from Site Review for incorrect scale.

Try this one. Paste in layout after you import to Chief. Scale3-16.calibz

Add a 3/16 scale along the border so the user doesn't need a rule to measure.

Thanks for looking at this. I just sent to tech support.

I added parapet walls on the Attic floor & this morning I noticed notches after I adjusted the entry room walls. Don't think that is what caused it but I can't figure why the entry room is causing this. Also there is an off wall cap bugging me. Any advice will be welcomed. Shields New.zip

Another option