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Everything posted by HamlinBC

  1. Without looking at a plan, I'm thinking the waterline isn't level... The easiest way to check would be to pull a cross section on the water and see...but it looks like it's following the terrain.
  2. Alan, I just printed your PDF on our T120, and it took 1:38.73 seconds from the second I clicked print to when it cut the paper. This thing is MUUUUUCH faster than the HP Designjet 130nr we used to have, and the print quality is way better too.
  3. We have 2 - HP Designjet T120's that we print all bidding and final plans on. We don't send anything to print shops. We even print on a "TyVek" style paper that is waterproof and won't tear. Contractors prefer it over laminating their plans as they can still write on it with pencil. For 11x17's we have bigger multifunction (Kyocera TASKalfa 3050ci/3051ci) devices that we use. They also print in color...which I LOOOOVE.
  4. Wow...that's about the best looking LED lighting I've seen Chief produce. I can't give you any pointers on what to do differently...looks GREAT!
  5. +1 on what everyone else has said. I always felt the same about not having time, but you know what...you use it here and there try out some of the new features and keep rolling. If you find a bug, great, if not, well at least you know it works well in what you do. Personally, I would use the Beta for production if I was a one man outfit, but since we have around 10 users here I can't really be cranking out stuff that others can't look at. The 3DConnexion support alone is enough to make me want to keep using it, buuuuut...*sigh*
  6. Just the plain 'ol rendering only utilizes 8 lights per room...so the other 64 lights are not used. In RAYTRACING you can have 64 lights and it gathers data from all of them. That's why a common solution to slow raytracing is to eliminate lights in other rooms that don't directly affect the scene. Because the software is trying to compute those lights for no reason... Again...see attached.
  7. Yeah, turn off 32 of them, because most Chief scenes can only handle 8 lights.
  8. Aw shucks...hoping it would be a surprise!
  9. My latest two... Can't stand how the couches turned out, and also noticed that Chief tends to export to .3DS very poorly. Either way, these are called "Final".
  10. Since there hasn't been a major release since this post started...I'm guessing nothing has changed.
  11. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/7401-construction-of-home-inside-pole-barn-do-we-start-with-walls-or-bare-framing/ My last post there shows that you can use general framing members to create the poles and the purlins. This method would still work even if your purlins are flush to the outside of the poles...you just have more framing members to draw, which isn't hard to duplicate with Ctrl+C, Ctrl+Alt+V, and then pt-pt move them to the next bay. I've tried getting the material and editing all the defaults to get it to auto build correctly, and in the end a polebarn is easier to manually draw to get it exact.
  12. Don't delete the existing purlins... Just pull open a 3D view and Shift+Select a bunch of purlins. Then use the open command (see 1.png) to open the group. Go to "Line Style" and change them all to your layer of choice (see 2.png). It's fairly straight forward, you just have to get your mind out of CAM mode and into Chief mode... I also added a rough plan file that has some framing for a pole barn on it...so you can compare. Polebarn.plan
  13. 1) Manually draw them with polyline solids...or framing members. 2) Probably make your posts out of a polyline solid, and then convert it to a plain solid and subtract the portion for the saddle cut. 3) Same as option 2... I usually don't go into so much detail with polebarns...mostly I have a template setup with walls set at the correct thicknesses and just call it good.
  14. Not really... I was going to suggest using multiple light sources, but you're pretty much limited to 8, and you'd need probably 2-3 times that many in order to get it to look right. I suppose you might be able to somewhat swing it with using 2 spot lights and set their cutoff angle to 170...and then use a p-line solid with an emissive material to fake the lightbar. See attached...
  15. Or p-line solids... But strange that you cannot curve stairs that way. Sounds like a good suggestion to me...
  16. I posted a video of my method...hopefully it helps: https://youtu.be/HKwMdFj6SWA
  17. I don't like that "stretch to fit" has to be selected in order for the Global Symbol Mapping to work. In the end, it doesn't look right because the pattern just repeats and it doesn't give the desired result.
  18. Here's what I did: Make the cabinet out of 4 boxes instead of 8...just to simplify things. Selected my material I wanted to use for the door fronts. Made the scale of the material to be the width of the cabinet (in my case 96"). Make 4 copies of the material so I now have 4 UNIQUE materials (which is technically all the same material), and assign each unique material to each cabinet door. Offset each copy the width of each cabinet (in my case 24"). Kind of hard to understand by explaining through text...so maybe I'll make a video sometime. Either way attached is the plan of the cabinet, so feel free and look at it. Untitled 3.plan
  19. Draw the truss; Open it up; and under options select "Attic Truss"... See Attached
  20. But then why doesn't the rectangular slab show up when you place the sink free standing?...
  21. Oh, OH!...gotcha. Yeah, sorry can't help you there. Boy, seems like it would be nice if Chief would create the block border to fit the symbol rather than just making a big rectangle.
  22. Scott, Open the Symbol (not with the regular "Open" tool, but with the "Open Symbol" tool), then go to options and change the Special Placement to "None". Then draw your elipse to the shape of the tub and convert it to a hole. See attached.