SNestor

Scott...please, post the "secret". Thanks!

So...all that said I glad to know it wasn't user incompetence. Really...if my hammer was close by I might of smashed my computer. @Alaskan_Son thanks for taking the time and posting some great suggestions on how to accomplish this task...much appreciated.

The entire process is convoluted...Roof hole, ceiling hole, skylight...oh my! I'm off to see the wizard...

I'm old enough to know when to "stop" suggesting...and give the client what they want. I think you would agree...HGTV has done a marvelous job creating home designers out of accountants, doctors, IT people...they now are all architectural "experts". Therefore, I decided years ago to give my "paying" customers what they want...unless they ask me for my opinion. I give it to them...and let them decide. I gave up trying to be Frank Lloyd Wright many years ago...

@HumbleChief - I own and have read "Get Your House Right"...it's a fine book for what it is. Basically...the authors aimed the book at builders who attempt to re-create traditional colonial residential architecture and are not paying attention to specific details...which in turn are making the area's of the country where these elitist critics live look "different" and making them feel "uncomfortable". The book is great if you are attempting to design a colonial home...and want the detailing to look authentic. The book does include many design methods that could translate to other architectural styles...such as "scale", window placement...and even some good tips related to roof design. But - one things that is as reliable as the sun rising...no one but the person signing the checks is the final arbiter of what constitutes "good architecture".

Thanks Eric - yes, it's the "fiddling" that I'm interested in. You pic still does not look like a "perfect" dormer...even with "fiddling". (but...much closer to perfect than anything I've accomplished)

Michael - use the plan Scott posted...it's one we've both worked on. Would love to hear your comments...maybe we are missing something so simple?

Scott - thanks for taking so much time to look at this question...very much appreciated. You are so close on these dormers...which I assume take a lot of expertise and time. However, look at my attached picture of one of your dormers...still lots of issues. Why? C'mon Chief - give us tools that work...

Yea...I realize I could use solids but I guess what I’m wondering is what I’m seeing correct behavior or am I doing something incorrect? Solids are a work around...and I’m more than capable of using them as a fix. But I’d prefer being able to correctly use the software and build a dormer with the tools Chief provides for this situation. So the question is - do dormer tools work or not for this type of roof/ceiling condition.

OK...I thought I could do this so easily. Nope...I came close to grabbing a stick of dynamite this afternoon. I am trying to create a dormer over a room that has a vaulted ceiling. Actually...the ceiling plane is at a 4/12 pitch...the roof is at a 9/12 pitch...and this seems to be the problem. The dormer creates a "shaft". If you set the dormer walls to be "roof cuts wall at bottom"...well, the walls get cut off at the 9/12 roof pitch. The ceiling however is way lower than this area...so, it leaves a big gap. I have tried using a hole in roof...and a hole in the ceiling plane...but, the "shaft" option is always grayed out. So...yes, I'm doing something wrong. Is there a guru out there that knows the secret to this conundrum?

The key is to create a "room" on the porch where you want to create the curved ceiling. Then...in this room, open the room DBX and select no ceiling. Then...use the ceiling plane tool and draw in a ceiling from side to side...with a zero pitch. Then, select "curved ceiling"...and put an "angle at eave" of about 30 degrees. You can play with the degrees to get the arc you want. To get all this to work I had to rebuild your railing wall...so, something might be wrong with this wall on your plan. I just used the siding-4 wall type and placed the square columns right out of the core catalog....seems to work. I've attached my "fix" plan for you to review...Justin Powell, 6-8-20 - My Chief Skills Fix01.plan

Just a quick example plan attached....I didn't make it exact...but maybe you can look at what I did with the roof planes and learn what to do to make your plan work. Here is my example plan: Fix Plan 01.zip Here is a pic of my example plan:

Post the plan...

Wall height is controlled by the “ROOM” specification.

I’m with you. I tend to leave truss design to the experts. And - I would not have known that the layer was locked by default....happy you got it figured out and I’m sure your post has helped many of us.

You may want to create a specific layer set that you use to edit trusses...where the layers you need are not locked. I’m sure it’s not something you do everyday so maybe it’s not worth the trouble.

I sent you a message..

@robdyck - not at my computer to check but I think the problem is “Newels”. Newels do not trim off at roofs...if your rail doesn’t include Newels it will trim to the roof. Again I’m going from memory so I could be wrong

See pic attached. Somewhat easy with a "glass" railing panel...and a molding line. The only trouble spot is if you have an opening....you will have to place breaks in the molding line. In the attached example I used a molding polyline...just because they are easy to control...and turned the molding off on the edge that rests against the house. Newels and glass panel are right out of the core catalog.

Screen clip...modified foundation wall with studs/drywall and airspace. As you can see there is a small gap under the stud wall..but, at least the studs are not extending down to the footing.

Exactly... @Kbird1 - Mick (and Chief) suggest creating a foundation wall that includes the airspace/stud/drywall etc. I thought in the past that when you did this the stud wall would actually extend down to the footing...which would not be good. However, just doing a quick test it looks like the stud wall will stop at the floor. So...maybe this is the way to go.

Rob - I think the reason for "furred" wall types is that it eliminates a room behind the wall. I think... You can assign any wall type as "furred"...I also have a unique wall type for these situations...but, you can use a standard interior-4 as a furred wall if you choose. I've attached a couple of screen shots from the X12 Manual on furred walls.

It's tricky that's for sure. Sometimes I just don't select furred...and things fix themselves. Below are pics showing how things change depending on wall types...

You need to change the "text" layer in your annotation set...or default set. My example below is using a saved plan view...but, the defaults are tied to the annotation set listed at the top. So...modify the layer that "text" is placed on. (not Rich Text).

I’ve done a few videos on dormers - check out my YouTube page.