Gawdzira

Here are a few things that I use. I have some images cut out from the Sierra Pacific instructions showing the taping sequence. I am not sure where I got the head flashing images and notes. I believe it may have been a Fine Homebuilding article or a JLC article? Wood Installation Guide (CA) - All Products 2017.pdf

One of these is a temporary dimension. Is there a way to better distinguish the display of a temp dimension? Even if I change my plan dimension layer to a bright color, when I select the connected object, both dimensions appear with the same colors. In a situation like this, I am likely to select the wrong dimension for my adjustment. I realize I can turn off temp dimensions but that is not the solution I am looking for. Is there a layer that Temp Dimensions populate from?

Here is a copy of that library with a near complete loss of texture links. They error message was searching for links from version X2. Therefore, not very current but a lot of the Ikea furniture is unchanged. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/jwfrvqy7hs2v9h4b41qoz/Ikea-very-old.calibz?rlkey=ext7dtmkr8f5jmcszf6gfr6wk&dl=0

Words, how you vex me.

The Plot Plan Default set (out of the box) with X15 Since I most often send my Plot Plan (renamed Site Plan) at 1/8" scale, I have my text set to 12" and my arrows set to 7" (they are the "Slash" type). These are my 1/8" scale drawing defaults. Check your minimum display size in Preferences. That might be what is making your plan views look like you have massive dimensions

Also, this is the forum for Chief Architect Premier. HD pro has it's own forum. The info is different across the 2 programs. I almost exclusively build roofs manually. Are you displaying roof blocking layer?

Good luck with that one. Clicking on a link titled "Happy Endings.whatever"? Yeah, not falling for that again (and again).

I would make that with a solid. Shape it in elevation in order to get the sloped riser profile. You can set the CA stairs to have no overhang but generally, the riser is sloped back in order to have the code required nosing overhang.

For good poche in section cuts, you will need to do some CAD work on the section (in X15).

Is there a setting to avoid the overwhelming size of temporary dimension arrows as I zoom into a selected object?

https://theplanprinter.com/blueprint-printing-online-arch-d-24-x-36-blueprint-architectural-construction-blueprints-printing-service.html

The type of image you are showing in the model is going to be custom painting on your elevations. You will not get that in a Chief model due to the lack of texture repetition. If I was doing this I would do something close and then run the rendered image through https://fotosketcher.com/ and make it super dirty so it is an idea of the texture. For the actual elevations I would hand sketch over the mostly blank elevations (texture very vague).

First printing to PDF and then printing that PDF is the most reliable path.

Also, when you export, save as .png so it retains the transparency.

Jim's in the box thinking.

If you just want white, export with remove backdrop checked and then paste that onto a white background.

Thanks. I may have drawn that one slightly out of the orthogonal plane?

I am not sure what I am doing so wrong? Adding custom rafter tails and I am not getting my rafter to build correctly. What am I doing wrong? Tail line that I exported to the library. 3x4 rafters I am only working on the garage/adu building on the left side of the plan. I saved that elevation camera with the line drawing of the rafter tail Thanks for any input. Roof actual YAN ADU V1 export.zip rafter tail a.calibz

select your walls and check this button

Before adjusting the wall on the left that that is 2'-10 15/16" after adjusting the wall by clicking on the dimension string and changing 2' 10 15/16 to 3'-0, I lose the dimension segment at the 3' section. I have not seen this before but I generally don't dimension to centerlines of walls. It still does not seem like something positive for that dimension segment to vaporize. YAN as built v1.zip

It sounds like the best approach would be to make the room ceiling ht. 14' in order for that to be the plate height where the rafters/trusses bear. Then place a dropped ceiling at 9 or 10'. In the roof tools there is a "Ceiling Plane" tool. Place a ceiling plane and adjust accordingly.

Good to know. I wonder if you could do that with Zip R on the roof sheathing layer. I will quiz my engineer about that. That would be a lot cheaper than spray foam and less likely to poison the workers. I can smell that spray foam for days and I always suspect if you can smell it, it is not your friend.

I think the r-5 is short on the ratio you would want for the flash and batt or "perfect roof" system. I think you want closer to 25% of your insulation value on the top side or the spray foam layer to cut off the dew point issue. Are you looking at the info from Building Science Corporation? I assume you are since you mentioned "perfect roof". https://buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-9904-unvented-cathedralized-attics-where-we-ve-been-and-where-we-re-going/view

What is the ceiling height of the room? That is likely the top plate. By uploading the .plan file this would be easier to ascertain. You must close the program before zipping the file. Also, if you build framing for the walls and roof it may reveal more to you.

All of the unvented assemblies I have done so far have been Flash and Batt. I am in climate zone 3 so about 2.5" of spray foam (approx. r-19) and then batt to make up the difference to get to r-30. The spray foam goes in before the sprinkler piping to avoid a hot spray foam to piping issue. For my next project I am looking towards something like you show #2. #4 looks expensive for construction and still gets you the fire issue for embers entering the assembly. With #2, either fill that soffit with spray foam or vent it. That is an area where you will have issues if it is left as shown.