Gawdzira

Damn you. Now I want one too. I don't actually need it but I really want it.

Here is a file with a note table that I have been cutting and pasting into files. The current version is copied from more recent projects but the notes and the order seem to change on each file. It makes it easy to delete a note or change the order in the table. Click on the "note" (the circle with number to the left of the table and open it up. Look at the Object Information tab to see how the table is organized. Just make sure to not accidentally paste multiple note tables into the same file. NOTE TABLE FILE.plan

1. Is the learning curve unrealistic for someone with absolutely zero training? I work a demanding full-time job, however I am willing to put in a reasonable amount of time learning how to use the program, but would like to generally know what I'm doing without being constantly stuck within a month or so. Is this unrealistic? -This is absolutely something you could do. But why? Yes it will be difficult and without any Architecture, engineering or building construction knowledge, very difficult. Mechanically, you can learn some tools easily to make a floor plan and probably get the 3d model to work reasonably well but are you the right person to do this task? Based on what you wrote above, my opinion is no. 2. I have read on this forum that the program does not lend itself to modelling a-frames. Given that I am 100% committed to building an a-frame, would this program not be practical for my purposes? I do want to play around with window placement on the angled roof/wall, and it sounds like that is a pain. -It is not very difficult to make a 3d model of an A frame. It would present some challenges due to how the program displays items due to how the camera cuts through the building for a plan view but fairly easy to work around or use some of the built in tools to achieve. 3. Are there templates you can download/purchase for a basic a-frame house that can then be tinkered with? I haven't found anything like this. -I am not aware of any. 4. Is modelling something like the a-frame linked above something that anyone can do with a bit of dedication, or is this something only a professional could do? ( Cozy A-Frame Getaway Minutes from Nelson Ledges - Cabins for Rent in Southington, Ohio, United States - Airbnb ) -Are you in an area of the world that requires mechanical heat or cooling? From a building science standpoint, I do not like what the large triangular open space of an A frame building offers. If you rely on passive cooling only, the building shape could work well if you are able to draw in cool air. If not, you are collecting a lot of very warm air at the upper floor. If you are cooling mechanically, you need to push that air back down and are using a lot of energy to do so. If you are wanting to draw this project on your own because you are thinking this is a more economical solution to hiring a professional, then you are budget minded. An A Frame building is a long term uneconomical solution for energy. If you are wanting to be the designer of your project because you feel like you are the best person to design your space, that could be true. In my experience, as a design professional for 4 decades, very few people are great at designing spaces (and especially "space planning"). There are a few people that are pretty good and then there are a lot of people that downright suck. Those that fall in the latter two categories are often professionals but more often "builders" or non professionals. And now I will spend some time checking out the seams on my flame retardant suit while the flamethrowers are getting fueled.

A nail placed in a tree will stay at a fixed elevation. My father (a civil engineer) was a partner with a surveyor in this venture that never took off due to a lack of good marketing. But, the concept was sound. https://www.baselineequipment.com/chrisnik-benchties-with-tags-20ct

I find that if the line weight is left at 1, it is too heavy. Changing to 4 makes the line very fine. I generally use 4 as my finest line weight and then if I really need a medium weight I go to 8 or often 11. Most of my heavier line weights are double numbers since they are easier to type. 33, 44, 111

Drop your daytime backdrop levels to about 300. Change your sun intensity to about 400 and then you might want to add some general lighting (light sources) with shadows off. I tend to scatter those around to fill in dark zones (lower cabinet faces...) Make sure to check in your camera how many lights can be used. Bump that number up as it defaults to a pretty low number if you have lights in a full house as opposed to only one room (44? may be the default) If you use a backdrop, it will really affect your light color. I tend to drop the recessed light to about 200 and take the color very slightly yellow so they don't glow around the edges

I seem to get this result from a variety of surveyors when importing their acad files. Is there a way to avoid this in the import process? This came in as a block with the text and topo line as a group. YAN24034-TOPO.EMAIL.dwg

Both of these doors have a Y offset of 12" Is this the way you prefer it to happen? It seems like the offset relates to the door/room direction rather than the door swing direction (the space between them is a hallway but none of the rooms have been described in the dbx. yet. I would prefer the label to go where D08 has landed. This is in X15. Was this changed in X16? Quick poll: A. This is good. B. This is less than good. C. What is a door label?

It is very fast and stable. I do occasionally hear expletives in high pitched tones but that is usually when I am driving with Justin Timberlake.

This set up absolutely screams. I do do a fair bit of quick RayTracing. I am not spending a lot of time with RT set up but when it comes to quick communication to sell an idea, an RT image gets a faster response from clients. The images attached required about 10 minutes of light adjustments and a few minor texture adjustments. No time spent and the texture features that would make these get towards photo real. This project was not a showpiece by any means, just trying to get someone their minor changes to a rental property out fast. The images were produced on my older system. The newer system listed below puts out 50 samples in a few seconds. I generally get an upgrade/replacement to my system about every 2 years. XIDAX-AMD-ADVANTAGE $3,371.00 XIDAX XEN BLACK AMD RYZEN 9 7950X3D 16C/32T 5.7GHZ Xidax Ultra RGB 360mm AIO ROG STRIX B650E-F GAMING WIFI XIDAX APPROVED 80PLUS GOLD PCIE 5.0 POWER SUPPLY's: 1000W XIDAX PERFORMANCE DDR5 5600Mhz 16GB: 32GB (16x2) AMD Radeon™ RX 7900 XTX LED Lighting: RGB Xidax Ultra Sleeving: Black PRE-INSTALLED GPU SUPPORT BRACKET DESKTOP WARRANTY: 3 Years BeQuiet! Pure Wings 2 120mm WINDOWS 11 RECOVERY FLASH DRIVE XIDAX PERFORMANCE NVME M.2 SSD: 4 TB Windows 11: Home

There is a "delete surfaces" tool for the camera view. I find it to be cumbersome and that info is lost easily by closing the camera view. Assigning a wall (with associated objects in that wall like doors or windows) is the way to achieve this. If the wall is in the foreground you can use camera clipping planes but that also has it's detractors as it is just a cutting plane perpendicular to the camera view.

My favorite Chaise Longue

In regards to GFCI breaker vs. outlet, if this is new, my electrician would establish the circuit with a GFCI breaker. This is likely a more stable system. The GFCI outlets are more fickle than the breakers. This is an existing system, everything fed by the circuit would be GFCI protected and if there are items that share the home run they would also be included. So if they had branched out and fed an outlet outside the kitchen with the same circuit it gets included. The convenience is that you don't need to hunt for the location of the GFCI outlet that is feeding the run. That can sometimes be a mystery (like at my house where an underqualified homeowner did some wiring who could have been me). The new codes have almost all circuits required to be afci/gfci combos so I am not sure if there is any downside to having a gfci breaker feed a non wet area breaker. The next time I chat with an electrician I will try to bring that up in casual conversation (I really need to start following sports or competitive fishing to expand my repertoire of casual conversations)

What are you doing? Are you building a 3d model to look at a representation of a finished house or are you drafting construction documents? If you are drafting construction documents, the building department plan checkers want to see GFCI labeled at each outlet that is protected. That is the architectural standard. If you are trying to make a 3d model with utmost accuracy, none of the outlets will be using the 3d model gfci unit since the breaker itself feeding the circuit would be gfci protected in a present construction. Also, if your 3d model holds that level of accuracy I am screaming in pain.

If your SSA is due to expire within a certain amount of time, it is unavailable. I think it is 60 or 90 days?

Use the orthographic camera (floor or overview)

@Renerabbitt The Xiadax requires a seatbelt (5 point harness).

I got a Lenovo Slim Pro 9i laptop. Would not recommend.

@para-CAD Holy Skynet Batman. The robot is not going to snitch on the robot. Who taught it that?

@ValleyGuy only one of those is the temp dimension. That is the issue, there is nothing to distinguish it from the distinct dimension that I had already placed. The size difference is the placement locations (outside of stud vs. inside).

Here are a few things that I use. I have some images cut out from the Sierra Pacific instructions showing the taping sequence. I am not sure where I got the head flashing images and notes. I believe it may have been a Fine Homebuilding article or a JLC article? Wood Installation Guide (CA) - All Products 2017.pdf

One of these is a temporary dimension. Is there a way to better distinguish the display of a temp dimension? Even if I change my plan dimension layer to a bright color, when I select the connected object, both dimensions appear with the same colors. In a situation like this, I am likely to select the wrong dimension for my adjustment. I realize I can turn off temp dimensions but that is not the solution I am looking for. Is there a layer that Temp Dimensions populate from?

Here is a copy of that library with a near complete loss of texture links. They error message was searching for links from version X2. Therefore, not very current but a lot of the Ikea furniture is unchanged. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/jwfrvqy7hs2v9h4b41qoz/Ikea-very-old.calibz?rlkey=ext7dtmkr8f5jmcszf6gfr6wk&dl=0

Words, how you vex me.