LevisL

More than one way to skin a cat! Lol. I don't have those roof intersection points turned on. I find them misleading. Sure they'll tell you where two roof planes will intersect, but what if your heights on one plane aren't correct? Anyway, that's my personal opinion! In most cases when figuring out complex roofs, I usually start with the baseline and calculate the correct elevations from there up, but in certain cases, like your 3:12 overframe, it's just as easy to figure out where the ridge is supposed to be, and work down from that. That's the beauty of the radio buttons we have in the roof plane dbx for height/pitch. As long as you know one of the variables, you can lock it and have Chief figure out the other ones. In cases like this where a particular area generates an odd truss, sometimes it's easier to draw the truss in an area where it'll generate properly, then open the truss dbx and check 'Lock Truss Envelope and Webbing', then move/copy that truss to where you want it. Or manually adjust the truss envelope in a section view. I'll usually try to figure out why the truss isn't generating properly for a few minutes, but if I can't figure it out, I don't keep fighting it! Copy from another location or edit envelope and move on!

@jasonN I sorta found a solution for the wall corner that had extra lines on the elevation view. For some reason, the attic wall on the gable has a "tail" that comes down on that corner. I simply selected that tail and dragged it back up flush with the bottom of the rest of the attic wall. Also, I cleaned up the roof lines and upper roof trusses if you want to check out how I did it . brIan wong addtion3 SIMPLE ROOFS - Fixed.plan.zip If you look at elevation 5 that I added and saved, you'll see how I figured out the correct ridge height for that 3:12 section of roof. I wasn't able to get rid of a few gaps in the siding on the left side of the upper floor, but those won't be visible in your elevation views, so I left them. If you're sending 3D views to your client and they bother you, you could always cover them up with a polyline solid. The one on the corner is almost completely hidden if you add a corner trim to the siding, which I did. P.S.: You'll need to have a short 2x6 pony wall above the existing 2x4 wall on the left side, otherwise you'll have a 2" offset in the siding above the existing roof. I guess you could do 2x4 + 2" rigid foam as well.

After Mark mentioned the off-angle edges, I looked more and I'm finding all kinds of precision issues with the roof planes on your plan, which explain many of your problems: 1. The upper roof planes are not identical on both sides and aren't properly joined at the ridge. One side has a pitch of 4.002289" (change the dbx to decimal inches to see). 2. The overhangs are not exactly 24" all around, due to the off angle edges Mark discovered. 3. Your lower roof with the "different ridge cap" doesn't actually have a ridge cap because it isn't properly joined either. Part of the ridge on the lower plane is also at an odd angle. 4. That 3:12 roof in between the upper and lower roofs is a couple inches to high and doesn't extend all the way to the upper wall. If I can give you a few pointers to improve accuracy: 1. Make sure your object snaps are on, as well as angle snaps 2. Work with line weights turned off to be able to see better if things are lining up 3. Use the 'Join Roof Planes' tool instead of manually joining ridges Still trying to figure out the wall intersection problem. I'll keep you posted on that one!

Zoom in real close on this point and you'll see that your overhangs don't quite match. I made them snap to the point you have there and the fascia looks like it should after that.

Or maybe an errant attic wall floating around somewhere?

The problem might not be how you created the pdf... it could also be on the end of whoever is printing the pdf document. Are they printing at 100% scale? Often times the default setting when printing from a pdf reader/viewer is "Reduce to printer margins" or "Fit to paper" or something along those lines.

I'm guessing you have 'Floor Supplied by the Foundation Room Below' checked in the structure tab of your garage room. If that's the case, put your room divider on the foundation level and it should work. You could also use a floor material region.

You should be able to do that from whatever pdf viewer/editor you are printing from. Here's a screenshot from the print dbx in Adobe Acrobat Reader on a Mac.

You could also do it with a molding profile assigned to a polyline around your perimeter (or more than one molding if you want to do the edge, skirt, and angled insulation separately).

Well I definitely was unaware of that one! Thanks Michael!

Good to hear. Just FYI, I had a look at your symbol... you don't need 3 stretch planes in the Z axis for this one. A single stretch plane anywhere between 16 1/2" and 67" would accomplish the same thing. Multiple stretch planes come in handy where you have more than one part of the symbol that you don't want to distort, or want to stretch on either side of a particular element. For example, let's say you have a set of 4 shelves evenly spaced apart. You could add 3 stretch planes in the Z axis (one stretch plane between each shelf) and the symbol would always keep even shelf spacing, no matter the symbol height. Or for a custom cabinet or piece of furniture with drawers, you could have a stretch plane on either side of the drawer hardware in the X axis, so no matter the width, the hardware looks correct. Once you create a few symbols with stretch planes, you'll get the hang of it!

It's a bit of trial and error to get the stretch planes in the right location. That's why having the preview on helps. It'll show where the plane is as you type it in the dbx. If you want the bottom 18" to stay unchanged, you should simply need to place the stretch plane higher than 18" in the Z column. Try 24".

Right click your symbol, then Open Symbol, then go to the Sizing tab

Oops. Missed that. Hopefully their signature isn't up to date!

What you need to adjust is the stretch planes in the symbol. Make sure the icon in the top right (see arrow in image below) is turn on so you can see where the stretch planes are being placed. And here's the same screw pile that's in the image. Screw Pile.calibz

I know that’s why you have a third floor. What I meant was, do you really need the ‘open to below’ room? Or can the railing walls just be ‘no room definition’ and just have the penthouse be an actual room on the third floor? That seems to solve the ceiling problem, but I’m not sure if it cause other issues.

Doug, The problem is related to the fact your 3rd floor (aka the roof) is defined as an 'Open to Below' room. Does it need to be a room? I just made one of the railing walls 'No room definition' and the problem fixed itself, but now the 3rd floor is no longer a closed room. Also noticed you have a couple of those railing walls slightly out of alignment with the walls below, which might not help, just FYI.

It works really well! And super easy too. You'll like it!

One drawback with room fills is you'll get white gaps at doors and doorways. A polyline on the back drawing group gives a better look I think.

That's awesome Michael! How the heck did you figure that out?! Now I can finally have white glass panel doors even though my default exterior door is a six-panel door. Definitely getting an upvote for that!

I'm curious to know if that can be changed as well. I hate always having to change that ugly Bone colour!

In cases like this, it can be tricky to get the diagonals and small jacks to behave like you want, so it's often quicker to just draw cad boxes/polylines on the framing plan and be done with it! Especially if there's no section cutting through that area. That's what I did here. Most of the trusses are actual trusses in Chief, but the hip corner is just cad boxes on the truss layer and nobody can tell the difference!

It's not really cheating... it's allowed in the Code! Up here where half my projects are in zone 7B (or 7A without HRV), it would be a fairly high heel to get the full R60 + air space under the heel. For a 6/12 or under roof, I usually try to have a min. 12" heel and that usually leaves about 2ft around the perimeter with reduced insulation.

I do the same. General note. When I worked in Edmonton, it was very common to frame with the sheathing flush to the foundation, but up here in the Peace Country, it varies. I always dimension to the studs and let the framers figure it out. Hopefully they're smart enough to know not to take the 3/8" out of a bathroom (if they choose to frame that way)! The one thing I found you have to watch for... the truss designers will sometimes assume the sheathing will be flush and they subtract 3/4" from the truss span...

It does on a Mac too, but just not if you print from the Preview app (and certain others I guess). That's where there's a bug and any image with a transparent background with come out with a black background on the printout instead.