LevisL

At first glance I found it odd that you had double walls on the second floor, but not the main floor. I figured it out pretty quick when I checked the wall type definition! No further questions... you do what you have to do with renos. There’s some weird stuff built out there, especially some of those farmer builds!!! When I was first looking for the issue, I was comparing roof settings with one of my own plans. Nothing stood out there. Then I checked attic walls. Still no fix. Then raising the roof. Nothing. Then I focused on the double walls on the second floor. At first, I moved the outer framing layer up to make it an exterior layer. That solved the flush eaves problem, but created a whole bunch of other issues! So I just split the exterior layer into sheathing and siding and that was the trick.

Rob, The problem stems from your wall definition. You don't have a sheathing layer, just a single exterior layer. If you split up the 1 1/2" board and batten layer into 2 layers, say, 1 1/8" board & batten and 3/8" OSB, the z-fighting disappears. Seems odd that those 2 things would be related though... might want to report that to Chief.

Gotcha. I hear you. That would be nice. Right now for that situation, you'd probably need to make a duplicate symbol of your handle with the 3D geometry offset. But that would be a PITA for sure!

You have me confused here!! You're saying you can have a combination of overlaid and recessed panels in the same cabinet in Chief?! How the heck do you accomplish that in the cabinet dbx?!

True enough. I've made my own labels for situations like that as well.

Haven't seen your plans, so I won't comment! I was just saying, in my case, during the design phase, I show minimal dimensions and the room size labels. If they can't figure it out from that, I don't want to be around when they get the full con docs and start building!!!

That's the way I do it too.

Haha. Well If they can't figure it out from a clear plan like this, I'd tell them where to go!!! Luckily I haven't had to!

So you can override the default hardware settings for specific parts of a cabinet! On a 4 drawer bank for example, you could leave 3 of the 4 as default and override just the one.

I quit wasting time long ago. I just label those without the size (rich text box with the %room.name% macro), then I just actually dimension them. Then it doesn't matter if the size changes.

Change the hardware settings for one or each door/set of doors here:

Just FYI, I reported this to tech. support with a link to this thread and they were able to reproduce the issue, so it's been forwarded to the development team. Hopefully that means we'll have improvements in this area sooner rather than later.

One nice feature with live views is that if you make a design change, you can just refresh it (I usually set mine to 'update on demand'). That way you save having to redo all the resizing and cropping every time you change something in that view.

Kyle, I've noticed this too. Something seems to have changed in X12. I haven't figured out what causes it or reproduce consistently, but I've had some files where live views retain their aspect ratio when sent to layout, and others not. In this screenshot, you can see my light blue cad guidelines of my screen aspect ratio (2:1 or 0.5) vs. how they came through as live views (5:2 or 0.4). Another thing that can affect how a live view appears vs. 'current screen as image' is if you zoom in the camera. The live views don't seem to retain the zoom settings. This hasn't changed from X11 though.

No problem! I’m actually shocked this is the first time you’ve encountered this issue! I’ve had this issue since X10 and Mojave!!!

Dan, that’s a Mac issue. I’ve seen it lots. Print from Adobe instead of Preview and it should solve your problem. Preview has a bug where png images with a transparent background will print with a black background. I just had the same thing happen printing school work for my daughter last week. It’s very annoying.

I have my window labels centered as well when I don't use a callout. Offset to the exterior by -8" and dimensions extensions set to 2" from marked object. My extensions don't go through the text. If I use a callout, I just move it off to one side of the extension line, similar to yours Robert. For foundation walls (or walls thicker than 2x6), -8" doesn't work well, so I increase it and just adjust the extensions for that string. If there's other dimension strings (which there usually is), they cover up the larger extension gap at the walls. Seems odd that the extension setting at openings is hard coded. Never noticed that before... I always thought my text style with a fill was covering the tip of the extension!

Bahaha. Now that's craftsmanship!

Nice! I turned off the frieze first, so I didn't notice that! Anyway, happy to help. And I hope your weather is better that ours up in the Peace Country right now... we've had about a foot of snow in the past week. Looks more like January 1st than April 1st outside!!!

Btw, you might want to add some lag screws to your newel symbol so that railing doesn't blow off with those strong southern Alberta winds!!!

Or you could override the interior and exterior wall surface materials on the two stair railing walls.

I managed to solve 2 of your problems. For the "wall caps", the problem is in the wall type definition. Change the material for the deck railing wall type to 'Opening (no material)' and the problem disappears. Your railing material will not be affected, since that's controlled by the railing defaults. For the frieze moldings, just open up the two roof planes and change the frieze molding to be on the gable only. As for the rail to newel connection, the railing stops at the bottom plate of the newel, so I don't think there's an easy way around that one. Though they connect properly on the level railing, which is odd. Might need to make another newel symbol for a corner newel similar this and add small room dividers to get those newels just at the top of the stairs.

Sorry, I looked at your renderings too quickly! It looked like the pony wall was only up to the second tread, but I see now that's because it's hidden behind since it's not sloping the way you want! Let us know what tech. support says.

David, I think you're running into a situation similar to one I just ran into the other day. I had a short section of half wall at the bottom of a staircase set to 'follow stairs', but it wouldn't slope for me either. I submitted it to tech support and was told: "As for the lower railing, it appears that in order for it to slope you need it to be two treads in length (closer to 2.5 treads in length)".