glennw

Rob, You can curve a Ceiling Plane easily. or... An extruded face. or...A poly solid - drawn in elevation view. I would probably go for the poly solid.

Adam, As far as I know, you can't change the distance from the end of the extension to the centreline glyph. The only thing you can do is select the extension line and drag the end of it towards the dimension line - the CL glyph will follow, BUT the distance between the end of the CL glyph and the extension line will stay the same. As you can see from the attached pic, you can actually drag the end of the extension line beyond the dimension line. The other alternative is to use a text box for the CL glyph and turn off Chief's one.

The dimension arrow problem has always been like that. The arrow or tick size has to be smaller than the wall thickness. The child tools have been replaced with the Tool Palette which works much the same way as previously. I have docked this Tool Palette under my top toolbars which is close to what we had previously.

You can also grab one of the tiled windows and drag it to the middle of the screen until you see the other window maximise. Release the window you are dragging and it will revert to a hidden tab. Same result as double clicking the tittle bar.

Larry, Do have the latest 16.2.0.47 update? It contains a fix for those screwy pony foundation walls that may cover your situation. I am not seeing your problem on my machine with the latest update.

Curt, I have also had that happen on more than 1 occasion. I wish they would fix it. I I am posting a long or complicated reply, I now copy it to the clipboard before going to More Reply Options - just in case I loose everything.

With the swinging in door it would be a real problem to get in there and then close the door. Also, in Oz, we are not allowed to swing a door in like that unless it has lift off hinges. Because, as Perry says, if someone collapses, they can fall against the door and prevent rescue. Hinge the door out or a bi-fold, or leave it as a pocket.

I am still having trouble with the PB & LB opening up very small in the top left hand corner of my primary monitor (Chief on my secondary monitor). I was hoping this might be fixed in the latest update - but still no change.

Chris, You can turn it of at 3D...3D View Defaults...Auto Rebuild Walls/Floors/Ceilings. But this is not advisable as the model really needs to rebuild. Although it shouldn't need to rebuild when just switching views, and it shouldn't take too long unless there is something wrong with the model.. Post the plan.

Larry, It should work. Can you post a simple plan.

Another variation on Larry's method using a solid white fill (which blocks out everything), is to use a white horizontal transparent hatch with thick lines which will give you a dotted line effect for the foundation work below the terrain. The white fill and polyline don't print.

I believe this bug has been fixed in the latest update - 16.2.0.47

Or CAD...Current Cad Layer or toolbar button.

Michael, I see what you are saying, BUT... With Auto Rebuild Roofs toggled on and Rebuild W/F/C toggled off, the gutter does not rebuild to suit a new roof configuration immediately. You need to either Rebuild W/F/C or open the default Build Roof dbx and OK out of it to get the gutter to rebuild and match the roof. You need to change the floor plan with auto roofs toggled on to see how this works. The roofs will change, but the gutters will remain where they are. If you just auto rebuild roofs on the same floor plan, the roofs will rebuild the same BUT the same gutters will remain as they were - you won't see this unless you change the floor plan and thus the roof layout. You can see what I mean in the attached pic - it is a view from underneath the roof so that you can see the line of the old gutter. Auto Rebuild Roofs was toggled on. Auto Rebuild W/F/C was toggled off. The roof was auto regenerated when the end wall was dragged to make the room wider. The roof rebuilt to cover the larger room. BUT, note that the gutter did not rebuild - it stayed in it's original location. You still need to Rebuild W/F/C to get the gutter to rebuild to match the new roof Once you have a roof fully drawn and built - and you don't want to make any more changes to the roof AND Auto Rebuild Roofs is unchecked. THEN the Auto Rebuild Walls/Floors/Ceilings setting comes into play. In my previous posts I was assuming that the roof system was already built and finalised because Gene said in his first post that he built the roof manually - and thus had Auto Rebuild Roofs toggled off. Anyway, the more information the better - thanks for the clarification.

Joe, Yes, there does seem to be a problem with the materials. It seems that every time you rebuild framing, ALL the wall framing reverts back to the default framing material' I created a new material for the batten walls. I can overcome the material problem by unchecking Retain Wall Framing after all the framing is built. I don't understand the logic, but it seems to work. I didn't say that this was the bees knees to do board and batten, but at the moment it seems to work OK. If you can suggest a better way, I'm all ears.

Michael, I believe the setting that controls this is Auto Rebuild Walls/Floors/Ceilings.

Oh, OK then. How about a tool that works exactly like a single layer framed wall.

Perry, I doubt that any tool that Chief could come up with would do a much better job than the framed wall. Any method will require editing of some of the battens. I just did a quick exercise on the gables and everything looks great as the framing is set out from the same location.

Larry, Yes, things seem to be back to normal today - no need to log in. I hope it stays this way!

Kirk, Yes, I have that checked, BUT click Delete...and go to the next dbx where I have Cookies and Website data unchecked. I haven't changed any settings in the last day or so.

Why not have the plywood cladding the outside layer of the main wall. Then create a single layer framed wall for the battens. Bump this batten wall up against the main wall. Set your framing defaults to suit the batten wall and build framing. Select all the batten walls and check Retain Wall Framing. If you need framing for the main wall, change the framing defaults and build framing. You may need to clean up the odd bit of framing in the batten wall, but it will take account of openings, etc. Any method that tries to build all the battens correctly is going to need editing because it will never be correct all the time. It is easy to drag the battens around and edit them in a 3D or plan view.

It seems that the logging in procedure has changed. Up until yesterday, I didn't need to ever log in to this site - I also never logged out. Now, I have to login every time I open a new browser window (IE). If I keep the browser window open, I can go to other sites and if I come back to this one I don't have to log back in. But if I close IE and open a new IE session I have to log back in. I haven't changed any settings on my computer or on this site. Anyone else? It's a real pain having to log in all the time. Does any one know how to access the site without logging in every time or is part of the new security system that is tied in with the digital locker - in which case it must have just changed because I haven't had this trouble up until now.

Alan, I think the rule is that if you place into a countertop, you can't use Reflect About Object. If you place it as freestanding, you can Reflect About Object.

d dot, Try chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com for the new one and chieftalk.com for the old one. Don't you use favourites or shortcuts or whatever mr mac calls them.

Roof battens would more often than not follow the gutter around a roof. I used the gutter molding polyline as a starting point to generate roof battens. I won't detail all the little things like using layer sets and changing layers that you need to do during this exercise. Use whatever technique you need to get the job done. First of, make a molding profile that you want to use for your batten at the correct angle to match the roof pitch. Draw a sectional diagram of the roof and get the horizontal spacing you need for your battens (no up the rafter, but horizontal) Unlock the Roofs, Gutters layer and turn on it's display Select the roof gutter polyline Copy in place Convert to a standard polyline and then convert back to a molding polyline (you need to break it's gutter association) Or, you could just draw your own molding polyline from scratch Change the molding profile to your custom batten profile you created earlier on Maybe give then a distinctive color They should end up on the Moldings layer Select the molding polyline Click the Multiple Copy tool off the Edit toolbar Select the Multiple Copy Interval tool and enter the horizontal distance you worked out above Drag the molding polyline up the roof slope - it will concentrically copy Don't worry too much if they overlap with the higher roof planes - you can clean this up later Draw a cross section and make sure it picks up the moldings in elevation (not just section) - they will probably be just above the floor Turn off bumping and pushing Select the outside batten and then Shift select it again (otherwise you won't be able to move it) Drag it up and sit it on the roof framing (the up and down arrow keys may help) Continue dragging all the battens up and sit them on the roof framing An alternative is to use the Height value in the dbx, if you work out the heights To tidy up around the ridges and where there are excess battens above roofs because of differing roof heights, select the molding polylines and use the No Molding on Selected Edge option (in conjunction with the break tool) There are also other options like multi copying the molding polyline a set vertical distance and then using Concentric edit mode to drag the polylines into the roof frame - but I think this is a bit harder to be accurate. That does it. A fair bit of work to get roofing battens - but if it's roofing battens you want......