ann0000

two shed roofs--can't build both at same time

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Hi!

 

Newby here...I'm training myself and learning from the manual and forums...but hoping someone can give me a point in the right direction!

 

As I fiddle with walls, I can build the roof over one room or the other, but not both! The garage is a simple L-shape, with the garage room taller than the garden room. Between rooms I have a room divider. I want a separate shed roof on each room, with different pitch directions. Garage room has garage door wall as full gable, and garden room has door wall as full gable (roofs 90° different and not connected).

 

The problem seems to be something to do with how I construct/specify the wall adjoining rooms? Currently using room divider and will build the missing attic portion later, hopefully? Ceiling design is open beam for now.

 

Thanks for any tips!  Cheers, Ann

 

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Room Dividers are invisible which is why you have no wall above the roof of the Garden Room , just run the exterior wall all the way thru with the Lower wall if butting Roof section set to interior wall 6 ( or whatever you want).

 

This KB article should help you figure out what walls to break and the setting in each

http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-01020/52/Home-Designer/Roofs/Creating-Multiple-Shed-Roofs.html

 

edit. : here's a pic that should help... Wall roof  settings shown are FG=Full Gable, Hi = Hi Shed  , clg= ceiling height

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Hi Ann,

 

Is there any reason why you can't just draw a manual roof plane and set it at the right height over the garden shed?...

 

You have one plane already.  You could even copy and paste it; maneuver it to be over the garden shed; double click on the plane; lock the pitch and drop the Fascia Top Height.

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Thanks a lot! I'm trying your suggestions. Since I'm just learning, everything takes me a while--selecting, moving, drawing views!  My computer's a little slow too. I'm getting a few variations of closer to what I want. I'll post a pic of my best effort!

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Hi, Ann, and welcome. I almost always draw the roofs like this manually. Once you set your ceiling height for each room (sets top plate height) you can add both roof sections by drawing over the top of the lower walls for that roof. Adjust overhangs to suit and you are ready to go. You can adjust the ceiling plane later to slope under the roof if you wish.

 

Mike

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Thanks for the tips!  I have a lot to learn and am paying attention to your ideas as well as reading the manual. Here is where I am now.  I got the roofs by correcting the walls! I still have lots of questions, but I'll keep trying to figure it out! 

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Did I misunderstand the slopes in post #2 Ann ? 

 

I think you may have your understanding of Full Gable and Hi-Shed reversed ? 

                                               the Hi-Shed setting should be at the High Endt of the Shed roof , with Full Gable on each wall running up to it

 

So.....

 

The high end of the Garden Room Roof should be over ......... ????      ( I was thinking not over the Dbl doors as it wouldn't be good to run all the water back to the garage Wall )

 

The high end of the Garage Roof should be over..... ????     ( I thought over the garage doors? )

 

 

PS what version of CA are you using?

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Hello!

 

The "unusual" roof pitch directions are because of a combination of drainage and looks...this building is an accessory structure in our urban backyard. The inside of the L-shape borders a big concrete patio in our yard, but the rear will be directly up against a property line, so I can't have any drainage or any windows on the back, etc etc. I can't even have an overhang. For the building, the county is mostly picky about drainage, and we're on about a 10% grade.  

 

In California, we get very little rain and are in drought conditions now.  But when it rains, it pours, and I have to have good drainage in place to get this through permits. The double doors open toward the house and the lowest grade. I'm building a drain channel in the front toward the driveway and the concrete patio. Planning to incorporate rain barrels and a garden basin. Since I can't have the high sides above the doors, I have gable sides above the doors, with gutters when I figure out how to add them there! I'd also like to figure out better how to control the pitches on the roofs, but a simple pitch is okay for now.

 

I'm attaching my plan if you're interested!  cheers, Ann

 

 

garage1a.plan

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is this what you need or like the red lines?

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you have Attic walls turned off in 3D views which is why they aren't seen in your pics.

 

The front wall above the garage doors is no at "default height" fix that to close the gap in the Stucco

 

The Overhang in CA is measured to the back of the fascia so it need to be about 2- 2 1/2"  or the back of the Roof will get cut off and you wont get the gutter.

 

have you seen this about basic Roofs

http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00359/52/Home-Designer/Roofs/Automatically-Building-the-Basic-Roof-Styles.html

 

 

 

 

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Hi Mick,

 

thx for the info! turning attic wall display on and fixing default wall height did make the front look good! attic wall display did something weird in the back though (pic).

 

yes, the garden part you show looks good! the slant seems steep though--what is it?  the garage part has to drain toward the garden part, with hi side to the right. the back side with no windows is on the property line.

 

yes, i did read that link you sent. i'm working my way through the manual now. i'm using X6 on an imac. Is there an easy way to remove the framing between rooms?

 

 

 

 

garage1a.plan

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Hi Ann, take a look at this plan. It was easier

to draw a new building than to rework yours.

In this plan both roofs have a 1 in 12 pitch.

If that doesn't work for you just select the

roof planes and change the pitch in the Roof

Plane Specification DBX. The reason your back

wall is misbehaving is because your roof planes

don't extend far enough to reach outside of the 

walls. Hope this will get you on the right track.

garage1a-rev.plan

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You didn't extend the Overhangs on the Rear of the building as I mentioned Ann, to 2 1/2" , if you don't the Roof plane cuts into the wall as Roofs ALWAYS control Walls , not the other way around.

 

You should also set your Exterior Casings to 1 1/2" so they aren't buried in the Stucco on the Windows and Doors.

 

I left the roofs at 2" earlier as that was what you had it set at but below I reset them to 1" in 12

 

Normally in a situation like this you would build the 1st level , the "L" as one building , then you would add a 2nd floor , over just the Garage at 45" high and set the Room "Open to below" , then you can remove the wall on level one between the garage and garden rooms and add the Beam that will be needed there....     (you will see those changes in my plan below.)

 

I think Rich is used x7 , so you won't be able to open his plan so I used X6 so you should be able to download my Plan below and and look at it .

 

garage1a_x6_R1.plan

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OK thanks! I'm starting to get it! I'm actually a molecular biologist (off work), so I'm good at 3D molecules, but I have to learn all the new terms for this! And the new program. I'm a little slow, but I'm trying to absorb everything. Thanks so much!

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just download the plan I revised for you above and carry on from there , doesn't look like you downloaded it yet ?

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"actually a molecular biologist "<br /><br />We'll try not to hold that against you! ;o)

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..so I'm good at 3D molecules...

 

Well then, it's only a matter of scale.   ;)

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Thank you Rich and Mick!! I took a few days off, but downloaded your new plan today. It looks great and I'm going through and looking at the different objects so I can see how it's done!

 

Dennis, I wish it were just a matter of scale, but all of these terms are new to me too, so I'm learning the names of the building parts. It's very interesting now that I can identify the different components on actual houses.

 

cheers!

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