javachip24k Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 Doing a finish basement for a customer, so he decided to incorporate a hidden door to his office. So I made a quick door for him in Sketchup, just to give him an Idea what it will look like. This was made just to give him an idea, but if you willing to spend a little time it can be done with other custom features. This door just needs simple modification, like broken arch 22", hidden hinges dropped to 15", hardware on one side, etc. Included is a few images how it displays in the view and plan. Enjoy! Hidden Door.calibz 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yusuf-333 Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 Nice one, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneChickNoHammer Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parkwest Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 If you have a 6 inch thick door you will need to bevel the edges where the two doors meet to be able to open the door... maybe attach a molding to one door along that edge to cover the gap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard_Morrison Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 One issue with swinging bookcases is that they tend to rack, even if they are well made locally. Just slight racking, and you've got a problem. There are outfits that sell these bookcase doors prefabricated with internal metal rigid frames, and I wouldn't consider anything else. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 I've done them sliding into a wall pocket 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 10 hours ago, DRAWZILLA said: I've done them sliding into a wall pocket This is a good idea. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glennw Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 On 24/07/2017 at 4:45 AM, parkwest said: If you have a 6 inch thick door you will need to bevel the edges where the two doors meet to be able to open the door... maybe attach a molding to one door along that edge to cover the gap? I think you may also have to shape the top of the door arches to allow the doors to close or they will bind on the top frame before they close. I remember I once had a thick door with a sloping top and we had to gradually bevel the top of the door to allow it to close. From memory we needed to bevel more on the hinge side of the door top and gradually easing to nothing on the handle side top. Then again, I could be wrong on this as it was a long time ago - but still worth keeping in mind and trying to find out if what I am saying is correct. There would be nothing worse that getting something like that made and then finding out that the doors won't close! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parkwest Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 I have a hard time visualizing why the top of the doors would need to be beveled, Glenn. I concur with the sliding bookshelves being a better solution, imho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javatom Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Picture it as an angled door and the binding at the top may become clear. Glenn is right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parkwest Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 20 minutes ago, javatom said: Picture it as an angled door and the binding at the top may become clear. Glenn is right. Good one... as soon as I read "angled door" I could see the pinch point. Thanks, javatom Books are very heavy... I still like the idea of sliding bookshelves... just wondering how to cover the rollers on the bottom without having to step over the baseboard??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard_Morrison Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Okay, here's my secret source. I've spoken at length with the Owner of the company, and he knows his stuff. A lot of his business comes from people who have tried to do this stuff on their own, and the doors have failed in one way or another. https://hiddendoorstore.com/product/secret-bookcase-door/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glennw Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 7 hours ago, parkwest said: I have a hard time visualizing why the top of the doors would need to be beveled, Glenn. It's a hard thing to describe. It has to do with the top of the door meeting the head jam at an angle whereby the height of the door is higher than the head jamb at the meeting point - due to the sloping head jamb. I would imagine the thicker the door, the greater the problem. And I would think that the same thing would happen with arch top doors. This may help explain what is happening: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parkwest Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 Thanks Glenn! I think I understand how and where the pinch points are. Reminded me of the round doors we put on a tunnel years ago where we had the full perimeter beveled except the flat floor part so we had no binding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parkwest Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 Thanks for the link, Richard. I will be taking a good look at those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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