ACADuser Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 I have this condition time after time. Is there a method that will handle this condition? Remove the ceiling portion while still having a floor under the foot of the stair. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 1 hour ago, ACADuser said: I have this condition time after time. Is there a method that will handle this condition? Remove the ceiling portion while still having a floor under the foot of the stair. I see you have 2x6 or 2x8 there already so I assume you mean automatically make the Sloped Ceiling fill in? no way that I am aware of but thinking about it now I wonder if you made that short piece of 2x8 floor Floor a Landing instead the Stairs would handle things differently? ....haven't tried it... but I don't think the Auto slope section will happen unless you trick it somehow. M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACADuser Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 I'm trying to cut the pointy floor off so it looks like it will be built. At this point I tried the sloped ceiling plane but the pointy thing persists. I circled what looks like part of the ceiling plain. Guess I can blank it out with a poly object for section views but no help with camera views. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACADuser Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 See below Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACADuser Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 The trouble with the workarounds is when they come back to you and ask the stair 2 & 3 be pushed forward 3 inches. If you use some tricky landings and such the editing can be tedious. Just wish ceiling plane would cut the floor envelope. I'd send to Tech support but don't want to be called (inferred) an idiot twice in one week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 10 minutes ago, ACADuser said: I'd send to Tech support but don't want to be called (inferred) an idiot twice in one week. I don't think the Ixxxt was on your end in that case Looks like CAD Masks cleaned it up for you? M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 I have to say this is the kind of thing Chief really FAILS at - since they so far haven't allowed the ability to get in and edit surfaces or sub-objects to clean up non-automated conditions that are left incorrect. I feel the OP's pain. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACADuser Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 The CAD Mask only work in 2D. Eric, Very nice. I'll dig into it tomorrow. How much work was it? I have 3 stairs in 3 building to do. Actually, I only need to do that when I need a camera view of the space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 One thing I learned a long time ago was that everything will not be exact in 2d and 3d, so just don't show that particular 3d view, you have already covered it with 2d and possibly a cad detail.. I actually don't show everything in 3d ,only what clients want to see like exterior and interior views, framing 3d is something I never show, for exactly that reason. Cover it with a cad detail if you must. Sections are really just for a general idea and good for ceiling heights, roof heights ,etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisb222 Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 On 2/15/2018 at 6:38 PM, ACADuser said: See below I'm just curious, what does the bottom of the staircase bear on IRL? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACADuser Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 Stringers attach to two 2x8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisb222 Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 41 minutes ago, ACADuser said: Stringers attach to two 2x8. Gotcha. It looked like the bottom of the stringer was even with the subfloor. Yikes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACADuser Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 Yes it was not clear in the previous section. Thanks for checking though. Another set of eyes is always good. I seldom have someone to look things over. The subs ask the GC & then I get a call and the fire drill begins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 You could also move the 2x8's , 1 1/2" to the Right ( in the Pic) and notch the stringer over the edge of the Floor ( makes installing easier too ) and provide a 2x block inside the 1st step too to provide extra Bearing. M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACADuser Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 Nice idea Mick, but when you consider the run of the grain of the wood you are not gaining much strength. But it would be easier to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 I'd rather see the 1st step sitting on the Landing myself but in this case it looks like the Headroom is a limiting factor, another way to do it is to make the 1st Riser FULL depth of the plumb line and use Construction Screws or Bolts thru the 2x8s and Ply , I am not a great Fan of Hangers on Stringers due to the wood splitting , so tend to use 3/4" ply top and bottom to hang stairs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACADuser Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 I suppose you could run the plywood under the stringers if the headroom were not an issue. In place of the clips you could use a Simpson H16. Have you been using the SDWC screws from Simpson? Cost 60 cent to 1$ each but fast to install and quite strong. https://www.strongtie.com/strongdrive_interiorwoodscrews/sdwc_screw/p/strong-drive-sdwc-truss-screw Off to dinner, catch you later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 I use GRK Structural Screws usually , just easier to get , but also use the Simpson if a raise head isn't desired ,,,eg on exterior wok/landscape ties etc. ....Larger head than those ones you linked and are a 1 to 1 match for Lagbolts in most situations and take way less to install --- time and skill wise.. https://www.grkfasteners.com/products/structural/rss similar to https://www.strongtie.com/strongdrive_exteriorwoodscrews/sdws-db_screw/p/strong-drive-sdws-timber-screw M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now