tundra_dweller

That is correct, I do have a fairly ridiculous amount of spv's with my method, I have them saved in my plan template. Thanks for sharing your method, this is the time of the year where it's a little slower and I like to go through and fine tune my templates & methods, so I love to see what others are doing that might make more sense.

Here's an example of how I have doing this for a year or so...not to say this is the best way...I'm certain others out there have better methods, but this has been working for me. Basically I use a callout and out\-of-the-box macros to label my layout boxes in the layout so that they automatically update with any changes to the name of the saved plan view and the scale of the linked view... ^This is a zoomed in view of one of my layout pages, the callout at the bottom is my label for this particular layout box. ^Highlight layout box and ctrl-e, or "open object", under the "Label" tab I have the "Use Callout" radio button selected. ^This is where I decide what goes in the callout tag on the left. A combo of text I entered and an ootb macro for the floor number, but it could be anything or nothing. ^Here's where I choose to show what's in the meat of my layout box label. The top line of text will always update with whatever the name of the saved plan view is. The scale info on the bottom line will always update to whatever the scale of the layout box is. This is the method I use for all of my plan views on layout. I use a very similar setup for my cross section & elevation views, but instead of having "Floor Number" in the callout tag I have it put in the plan display of the callout tag (E1, E2, S1, etc.,.)

Try going to the "Materials" tab for that wall and change your interior & exterior wall surface materials to "Opening (no material)".

What Chopsaw said, or use the transform/replicate tool if you're not making it parallel to another object...

A couple things you can try: Go into your default settings->Floors and Rooms->Floor Levels->2nd Floor and change the structure to your new joist size here first. Also make sure the ceiling heights for you 1st & 2nd floor are set correctly in this dialogue. If you resize your floor joists through the room spec dialogue, try checking "Lock Floor Bottom" in the "On Structure Resize" option. In either case if you don't have auto roofs on, you might have to manually raise your roof planes the height difference of the new floor joists. I've been through this tail chasing scenario many times, it can be a total PITA.

Glad to help, it's a good way to procrastinate on work I should be doing. Open up the wall specs on the two cheek walls and change the wall type to your exterior wall, then select for "Lower Wall Type if Split by Butting Roof" and change the lower wall type to your interior wall.

You don't have flush eaves checked on these planes.

Does checking one of these options in the wall spec dbx get you there?

One thing you can try is going into your default settings for your active view and change the default angle of the text so any new text would come in at this angle. You would have to do this for regular and rich text if you use them both.

The two posts above are spot on. I spent a good amount of time yesterday not flipping but having to rotate buildings 90 deg. I used the edit area & transform-replicate tools. Most text and labels then have to be individually dealt with, and for object labels in many cases you have to uncheck "Auto Adjust Text Direction" in the label dialogue to get the labels to stay oriented how you want. But yes, save a copy of the plan first and be ready to use ctrl-z to get back to square one if things go haywire.

I don't see a simple way to do it with win10 or win11, which is kind of silly, but this might be worth a shot? https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/set-the-mouse-scroll-direction-to-reverse-natural/ede4ccc4-3846-4184-a86d-a028515040c0 For what it's worth, I use a Logitech g604 mouse and you can use the Logitech pc app to change the scroll direction and customize the buttons pretty easily.

Yes indeed. What we used to do before the bigfoot type forms were common was to auger 24" holes, pour a 12" thick pad at the bottom of each hole first (embedding rebar in the pad and leaving 4' or so of vertical rebar dowels exposed so they fit within the sono tube as needed, then come back and place our 12" sono tubes on the pad, backfill and pour the sono tubes. The bigfoot forms cut out that entire step of pouring the separate pad footing first. Here in hard frost country we have to have the bottoms of our footings at least 60" below grade, and the wider pad footing not only distributes loads to avoid settling of the footings, but it also "locks" the bottom of the footing in place to help avoid freeze/thaw cycles moving the entire assembly up & down. Although we've still seen them move in poor soils. Definitely don't want to be pouring just a tube form without a wider element at the bottom.

I'm going to make some wild guesses here, but I would say the posts are not centered under the beam and probably offset towards the house and notched to accept the beam some distance that would allow for the box framing & stone veneer to come out near flush to the edge of the beam. For the footings, I would imagine you could use a standard 12" sonotube footing and keep the top of the tube form 4-6" below grade, then form out a square or round to whatever size you need at the top 4-6" of depth, kind of like a reverse bell footing. Run your normal rebar cage in the sonotube and tie in some horizontal rebar in the top of your box form, and pour all at once.

Nice option! I'm usually starting with one of the P4-5 or P4-6 direct glaze windows from the Marvin catalog and going through all the gyrations to calculate the side lengths. It's not too bad if you're able to use nice round numbers for the width, height, & spacing. I've never considered or had any clue that the tudor arch method would work to create polygon windows.

I've run into this before but I can't remember exactly what the solution was. Do you have lintels on any of the windows before you mull them? If so try without the lintels. I've found that with these types of window configurations it's sometimes easier and more accurate to turn off exterior casings, go to elevation view and get a cad detail from view, draw a polyline around the perimeter of the ganged window frames, offset the line for whatever reveal you want, copy>paste/hold position the p-line to your elevation view, then convert the p-line to a molding polyline to create your casing. It would be really nice if we had control for each individual side of casings per window. On or off, different widths and thicknesses.

@dcook627 I assume you've probably already seen the plan source your image came from in order to look at the other elevation and plan views , but if not here is a link. https://www.houseplans.com/plan/3086-square-feet-4-bedroom-3-5-bathroom-3-garage-farmhouse-country-southern-sp261191

You could try using one of the Nanawall products or Marvin Ultimate bifold glass doors from the manufacturer library to create something like this.

@cjanderson66

Jim - try checking the "'details" box in the reference view dbx.

Very nice, thanks for sharing!

@VHampton Thanks for your insight!

This is generally how I have learned to do it too, but I haven't figured out the best way to manage all the different wall types. Do you usually just leave those kind of oddball wall types that are mostly specific to each project in their plan file, or add them to the user library? Carrying everything forward in a template plan would get pretty unruly I would think. And yes, this place wouldn't be the resource it is without old school users.

Jim, that is correct. If you need different offsets for different walls/areas you would have to create copies of the material as needed. It would be handy if you could adjust material offsets on a wall by wall basis, or if the materials themselves were "smart" and would know to set the origin of the patterns at logical points such as the tops of footings, corners, etc.,. I can imagine someday we'll have an AI assistant to take care of that kind of stuff.

Here's a couple good map resources that someone else posted on here a while back. https://snazzymaps.com/style/130173/ccr-black-and-white https://www.openstreetmap.org/search?query=tortolita mountain circle#map=15/32.4485/-110.9757

Thanks Rene, I figured it involved that kind of a process. Much appreciated.