DzinEye

Hey Rene, I noticed earlier today that you'd responded to someone on the Q&A forum and mentioned Quixel. Upon reading that I clicked the link and visited the site, but I was puzzled by what it was exactly. I had the impression it was essentially an online storage area for 3D 'assets'... and that was about it. So here you're expounding on the subject and I'm getting a little more clarity toward the usefulness, but still somewhat confused. Here you mention DesignConnected as your DAM of choice ...which is (Digital Asset Management) and that sounds like exactly what Quixel did... which you're saying is Bridge software. So now we've got DAM's and Bridge's and my head is spinning. Also, when I looked at Quixel's website I didn't get the impression they were providing any kind of models or textures... but you seem to imply they do. Bottom line is all I really wanna know is whether one of these options would make for a great User Library alternative for Chief? I do use Sketchup too, mostly to just manipulate things for use in Chief. Cheers, and thanks for providing the info you do.

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/25/drawing-roofs-manually.html?playlist=95

I was kind of wondering why you wanted to insulate just one side of your parapet wall...though it appears you have it on the parapet on other side of the flat area too? I should point out to you that you're going to get no insulation help from that bit of foam you're showing on the other side of the masonry wall behind where the roof hits. The exposed masonry everywhere else on the wall is going to conduct it's heat and cold into the area that you're covering with foam. Also note that starting/ending that foam low on the wall there is going to be an awkward flashing detail. Much easier to bring it all the way up to the top and use the parapet cap to flash it.... however I think you should just skip it altogether unless you work out a very different insulation solution.

Glad you got it to work. Normally you can choose square cut and only the eave will be square, but I could see yours was square at the top for some reason. If it's still doing that you can always assign a custom rafter tail even if you choose plumb cut

Post your plan. With 'no special snapping' you should still be able to have a pony wall. If you want the foam to continue both above and below the roof to where you're showing it ending... then that's not going to happen

I think the problem is that your roof has square-cut eaves, not plumb-cut at the top where it hits the wall, which is preventing the roof surface from hitting the wall. Try in your roof options setting a 'plumb-cut', rebuild your roof and see what happens

I just played with this a little. As you say, it does work just fine without selecting 'furred' wall in Structure. There is a slight difference in how things work though. If you select 'furred' then you can only place the window into the concrete outer wall, whereas if you don't select furred, it snaps to either wall (but the end result is not the same), if you place it in the framed wall things get wonky with trim. Also, you get different results with what happens to the window when you delete the inner or outer wall.

You're doing what I did at first... He's talking about Viewing in a 3D camera view, not plan view

Interesting... looks like we both just learned something

Seems like that should work... but not sure why your issue is window openings? If you select furred wall the windows always frame through properly for me.

If you open the symbol and select NONE as your 2D block you'll get this result, which may be good enough ?

Kevin... there's a fair amount of info in @Alaskan_Son's post, so without a more specific question I don't know what you understand or not... if anything! I assume you understand how to create your own symbols? One of the key elements he's explaining at the end is that when you do create symbol for your new window, in the 'create symbol' dbx, under 'symbol category' instead of choosing 'window' symbol, choose 'exterior fixture' from the list. Choose 'Show Advanced Options' then under 'options' you will have checkboxes, from you ocan can choose to 'insert 'INTO the wall' when you place it... and don't forget to set the depth. The other things he's explaining is how to change out and adjust the 2D Cad symbol. Honestly, I'm a bit confused by his explanation on this part too (if that's the part you don't get). What I've done, and perhaps what he's saying to do in a different way is this; If you've selected 'show advanced options' then you'll see an option for 2D Block... there you can choose to generate a block, or use a default window block, and make adjustments to how it displays.

By type I meant, hip, gable, shed

Sorry to leave you hanging! Glad @solver was here earlier to get you straightened out! You'd originally only said 'change the roof' so I didn't know what that meant exactly, hence I offered several suggestions. After you'd finally said you were going to change the frieze, I thought you were all set on the path of exploding the dormer so I didn't say anything further!

Not exactly sure what you mean by change the roof.... if you mean material though you can just paint it whatever material you want without exploding

The explode tool only shows up after you select an auto-dormer

Sure, you can explode the auto-dormer... but you can signify a different roof type in the dormer dbx too

Select the two walls that form the angled end of your building and open their dbx... under the roof panel, select High Shed/Gable , then auto-rebuild the roof.

Lots and lots of people have requested this... search the 'suggestions' forum and add your +1

Looks like it refers to a book and page number... possibly part of the assessors parcel number?

Did you check your line weights?

Re-read the post above by @Renerabbitt

Search 'Corbel' in the library

Also works by drawing the side of the deck against the house with the Deck Edge No Railing tool, starting a few feet from from the wall then drag it up to the wall after completing the deck room. Steve, I didn't try the invisible wall method, but probably will work the same as with the method I just suggested here... under Door> Casing > Double Wall Options, select 'Not Through'.

Or...the stringer could continue up under the main platform and rest on the beam.