robdyck

Steve definitely understood what you were after better than I did, whoops! I combined his methods and addressed this new question. Your adjusted plan file is attached and I'll add a brief description here. The walls in the Attic were not Attic Walls, so they weren't behaving quite right. Anyhow, inspect the adjustments and hopefully it gets the framing a bit closer to what you have in mind. PLAN 1 3-4-2025 square.7z

Hi Susan. Step 1 is to make the ceiling planes meet correctly. Currently, you have the sloped planes meeting at a peak. Instead, pull the tops down and join the upper edge of the sloped ceilings to the flat ceiling. That will mostly correct the framing, at least as far as auto-framing can take it.

Simple! Turn on the Walls, Invisible layer

Hi Levina, to show exposed trusses you can use a roof truss or model it manually using molding polylines, 3d solids, etc. To use a roof truss, start by drawing a roof truss in the desired direction anywhere in plan view. Turn off 'Use Special Snapping. Move the truss close to the desired location. Then create a section view and accurately edit the truss polyline and Member Sizing and select 'Force Truss Rebuild'. Depending on your desired truss configuration, you may need to edit the framing members of the truss in the Truss Detail. Roof trusses and molding lines will create proper woodgrain orientation automatically assuming the texture image has the woodgrain running vertically. You can also use general framing members for horizontal components and a post for vertical components. These 2 framing components are stable and will not 'jump' or rebuild to undesired shapes / positions. Trusses and 3d moldings can behave oddly if you are not very familiar with their idiosyncrasies and how to overcome those to create stability. 3d solids are very stable but don't map wood material correctly. When I want quick stability and flexibility I will use a general framing member for horizontals, a post for vertical, and a molding line for diagonal webs. Assign them to a layer of your choosing and paint them all with the same material for predictable results.

You should probably post the plan file so you can get specific suggestions.

Usually you will need to use foundation wall on the foundation level to create a room for the stairs. If the terrain is on Floor 1, this will NOT create a hole in the terrain. You can either create the hole manually using a polyline or terrain feature (recommended) OR create a room of invisible walls on Floor 1 (I do not recommend this). The stairs can be drawn on the foundation level, however you will need to set the heights manually.

This might be a bit more helpful for those interested in what Joe posted. https://www.sandiegocounty.gov/pds/docs/pds081.pdf

Hi Shane, 2 suggestions for you: Delete the ceiling structure for the porch, or reduce the structure depth to 3.5" For the side wall of the Porch, create a wall type that is a single layer and specify the main layer as an air gap.

Also, experiment with printing @ 144 DPI. For me, this provides acceptable print quality and saves lots of MB over time!

Many email servers have a 25MB limit for attached files. To email files that are larger you have a couple of options: You can upload your files to Google Drive or Dropbox and then email a download link You can compress the files to a zipped folder. A new format is a 7z file which in my experience has more compression than a ZIP file. There will be limited benefit for a PDF with many embedded images.

Once I deleted the material pattern for the slab material around the pool, all elevation cameras opened in a normal amount of time.

On my machine, the slab material pattern was the culprit. Once that pattern was removed, speed was normal. All other adjustments I mentioned made additional improvements in speed. 20250221-1345-57.5052658.mp4

Speed of exterior elvations can be increased more by using opaque glass and turning off the layers for all interior items (electrical, cabinets, fixtures, etc). For exterior electrical, just create a copy of the layer to use fore exterior items.

I'd also suggest using a simpler pattern for the roof shingles.

Try deleting the pattern from the slab material around the pool.

Custom ceiling plane (0" framing depth / does NOT use room ceiling finish). I keep the edge of ceiling 1/2" in from cladding surface. Ceiling must extend beyond wall framing layer. Gable end wall> Roof Cuts Wall at Bottom

The camera callouts will display correctly once the layout file is open...and only when the layout file is open.

For this a download link works best...Google Drive, Dropbox, etc. For your elevation views, Open the dialog (Edit Active View) and check 'Clip Sides' then press OK. Don't worry about the value as you can adjust the sides in the elevation view.

Double click the dishwasher to open the Fixture Specification dialog after placing the dishwasher in your plan. Select the '3D' tab and adjust the origin offsets to 0". This is only suitable to do when placing the dishwasher as a freestanding object...NOT placed into a cabinet.

@decorators3I'll email you shortly.

Fixing the display of that scenario in all views is possible but time consuming and frankly a PITA. The quickest and most stable fix is to fill that space with a 3d solid.

Unfortunately, no.

If you are changing this on a per room basis instead of for the entire floor, then you will also need to move the framing to the next group.

Ah, sorry Larry, I could have included a bit more info! Glad to hear you've already got it figured out, but I'll just add that clicking the 'Define' button opens the Saved Text Style dialog where we can select a different text style or edit the text style in use (or any other text style).

This seems like it would more likely be caused not having any deck framing, but not because of removing the ceiling in a basement room.