robdyck

Try checking 'through wall' at start and end.

Build foundation will follow the default settings including the defaults for the garage room type. You should be able to specify a monolithic foundation for the garage in the garage room dbx and the foundation should build accordingly. It does for me. I often use 2 different foundation types quite often but for attached garages. I never build a detached garage in the same plan file as the house.

Here's some images I produced. I made a copy of the plan file, 1 for X12 and 1 for X13. In X13, the only change I made to the saved cameras was to turn off refraction and cap live samples. FWIW, I don't think it's reasonable to expect the same results with PBR in X13 as the rendering engine is different and it is designed to work with refraction. IOW, it ain't the same, so how can it be the same? Here's my results. X12 X13 X12 X13

Zip it up, or use dropbox or something similar. I've got a bit of time to take a look this morning...

I'd suggest using landings, starting on the left side of your staircase. Once you've drawn them out they can be copied and reflected to the opposite side of the stairwell. A bit of math and planning before you start with the actual landings will ensure that you don't need to make any adjustments. I find using landings (instead of actual winder stairs) is a bit easier for dimensional control to ensure code compliance, which varies significantly from one jurisdiction to another.

I've exported to several different file types. .3ds works better for me for importing into SketchUp.

Posting the plan. That would eliminate guessing.

You will need to experiment with different settings, including the sunlight direction, intensity and color. Make a only 1 or 2 changes at a time and take notes. For example, does reducing the sunlight intensity make the image darker or brighter? Make notes and continue to adjust. Does increasing the camera exposure or brightness help? Again, make your changes in small increments to see if there are improvements. It can be a process of baby steps.

Yes.

You certainly can have more than one wall covering.

9 hours? Yikes. Use room moldings for all the horizontal pieces. Use a wall covering for the white recessed portion of the panel. Use custom backsplashes for the vertical portions. It should take about 9 minutes

A molding will be cut by windows, just like a chair rail would. You can use a room molding for parts of the wainscot but you'll need a different technique for the panels.

2 Options: Make a custom material that can be saved for future editing and use. OR Use material regions for the individual pieces of siding. These can be individually painted at anytime using any material.

Edit your default foundation wall: If the floor platform inside of a brick ledge is hung on the foundation wall, Subflooring to Wall Interior must be checked in the Wall Specification dialog in order for a brick ledge to generate. See Structure Panel.

Interior elevation view: Window top at 95" above floor / Transom at 94.25" above floor

Yes, putting a transom window over a door is a real bugger. I'd suggest whenever possible, use a fixed door for transom windows or sidelights that will be mulled to a door. Keep in mind that when mulled, the interior casing will switch to window settings - overlap frame. This will then need to be set to a negative number to get the casing reveal.

Definitely a difference between the materials lsit and the walls components.

It covers the floor system at the bottom.

And how weird is this...that's exactly what I'm doing right now!

Adjust the offset for the gutter. Then you can turn gutters on/off on a per edge basis.

@Renerabbitt Thanks Rene, I appreciate the advice. Open to last panel will do just fine until the weekend! Then I'll take a look at a macro recorder.

Is there a way to assign a hot key to go straight to the label text of an object after single clicking on the object? I use a lot of labels, and I'd lick a hot key that goes to the label and highlights the existing text so its instantly ready for new text to be entered.

The simplest way to check headroom: Open stairs, set railing to 80" (or per your building code). Generate a section view. Once the structure is ok, you can reset the railing back to its proper height.

You really need at least 16" depth in order to fit any main ducting (plenums, not branch lines) between the webs / chords. So 16 risers will just work (in Canada) with a 9' ceiling (109 1/8 + 16 3/4 = 125 7/8 / 16 = 7 7/8). I used to work with a builder who insisted on using 14" floor trusses and there were always problems with fitting any ducting, except for where duct chases were built into the truss. Many truss suppliers will have a chart or diagram indicating the rectangle and round duct size that will fit base on the truss depth. Keep in mind that if this type of structure is over an attached garage, you'll need at least that depth to get spray foam insulation under / around plumbing traps and under / around heat ducts. And plumbers / hvac trades will need to install as high up as possible, and typical strongback bracing under the top chord may have to be designed to accommodate those mech. items as well.

I made a few adjustments which you can explore to see if they deal with the issue. 1665640141_ArcherShopROBD.plan