VHampton

It’s possible the program is struggling because the roof surface over the first floor isn't quite an "attic," which can confuse the dormer tools. Why not try building it manually? You could copy and paste the (2) roof planes from the attic level, then lower them to align with the roof over the first floor. From there, manually edit the roof above the first —create the necessary breaks and openings as needed. Presumably the dormer are being shown in the attic level plan. The reverse gable(s) which you're trying to build should be shown on the 2nd floor plan --- so that the roof framing makes sense when that particular plan is being generated. Anyway... it should go fairly smoothly with a bit of adjustment. And honestly, getting comfortable with manual roof editing is a great skill to have in Chief.

Apologies... this is where I was slightly confused by the question... "I want to be able to do this for individual toolbars and have her install these within her pre-made configuration." As Rene said, there's a way to do this. Still, there can be many custom toolbars which one can toggle through while working in Chief. It's a reasonable expectation to take the imported one (with whatever unique features) and revert back and forth between this and the "out of the box" toolbars. Over the past 25 years, I've amassed a fairly large collection of them, and can pick and choose between various options when opting to eliminate certain layers... or the appearance of the toolbar itself. Perhaps that's where the disconnect is on my part. The "look" of the toolbars vs. the functionality of the layer settings for a specific tool bar. On a side, Rene has configurations which are simply beyond impressive. He's posted videos while working with them, and it's pretty incredible. If you've never seen a circular toolbar before, he's got them. Lol All the best.

Yes... there can be many custom toolbars saved in the Toolbar Folder. While working you can choose to toggle between the various options. Anyway... this is where they're located (please excuse me for stating the obvious). In The Chief Architect Premier X16 Data Folder. Make sure the Toolbar has unique name. Otherwise It could wind up replacing one of the custom tool bars. The easy way.... Copy the custom toolbar from the folder location, and paste it into the desktop. Rename it (if necessary) - like Molly's Toolbar - and forward it via email or Airdrop. The end user can copy and paste into their library Folder. Specifically the Toolbar Folder. OR... they can use the import toolbar tool and bring it into their system using that method. More technical answers are below... but the above will work. To transfer a toolbar in Chief Architect, you can either copy and paste the entire toolbar or its configuration to a new computer or configuration, or use the migration process to import from an older version. You can also reset the migration to re-migrate the toolbar settings. Here's a more detailed breakdown: 1. Copying and Pasting: Locate the Toolbar Folder: . Find the "Toolbars" sub-folder within the Chief Architect Data folder for your specific program version. Copy and Paste: . Right-click on the "Toolbars" folder and select "Copy". Then, navigate to the destination folder (on a new computer or a different configuration) and "Paste" the folder. 2. Importing Configurations: Open Customize Toolbars: In Chief Architect, go to Toolbars > Customize Toolbars > Configurations. Import Tab: Select the "Import" tab. Navigate to the Data Folder: Browse to the folder where you saved the toolbar configuration or the new computer's Data folder. Select and Import: Choose the configuration you want to import and click "Import". 3. Resetting and Re-migrating: Access Preferences: Go to Preferences (usually found under the File or Edit menu). Reset Options: Look for a "Reset" or "Migration" section within the preferences. Reset Migration: Choose the option to reset the migration. Restart Chief Architect: Close and reopen Chief Architect to trigger the migration process. Choose What to Migrate: During the migration, you'll be prompted to select what you want to migrate from the older version, including toolbars, libraries, and more. 4. Transferring Toolbars Within a Configuration: Master Configuration: If you have a "Master Toolbar Configuration" with all toolbars, you can make a copy, rename it, and then delete any unwanted toolbars. Copying Configurations: You can only copy an entire configuration, not individual toolbars.

AI can do some interesting things these days. Like joining the forum, posting an image, and down the rabbit hole every goes. The moderators should require legit signatures with versions and operating systems. @solver would have been all over this one.

I could be wrong... The OP wants a gable over the garage which is higher than the gable covering the right side.

Is that a poly-line from a plan view which was made into a CAD detail? When a poly-line (with solid fill) is converted into a CAD detail, the "fill" can become fragmented. Blocking a poly-line prior to creating a CAD view can sometimes prevent this triangle effect. The screenshot of the PDF print looks exactly like this condition. Is it possible to: a.) send the original plan view to layout? ...or: b.) Make a Cad "block" of the roof poly-lines prior to creating a CAD detail of the view. Last observation(s)... Is the PDF being made with the built-in Chief printer? ...or is it a different print source, like Adobe for example? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ EDIT as per Michael's post: This is not an isolated CA anomaly. It happens with AutoCAD too. Lowering the dpi quality of the PDF print may help. Allegedly. Why are There Lines Showing in My Solid Fills? AutoCAD and most CAD programs approximate solid fill areas by drawing anywhere from two to several hundred triangles to approximate the area. They do this because printer drivers do not recognize filling the complex areas so AutoCAD approximates it based on the triangles that printer drivers will understand. Much like how solid meshes are used to approximate complex 3D objects. And even though the endpoints of the triangles are written identical in the PDF format the rendering engines of PDF Viewers will typically end up showing dashed lines between some of the triangles when they scale the endpoints to the screen which is much lower resolution than the PDF. An 8.5x11.0 PDF at 600 DPI would be 5100x6600 pixels which is considerably higher than today's computer screen resolutions. Below is a sample of standard solid fill output from AutoCAD to most PDF drivers. Many PDF Viewers also perform antialiasing on the graphics to make them appear smoother on the screen. If you zoom in on a 1 pixel wide line drawn at 45 degrees it essentially will look like a set of stairs. Antialiasing adds lighter colored pixels around the line to simulate a smoother line to the human eye. Below is a sample of a standard line on the left and an atialiased line on the right. The antialiasing is typically what causes the lighter colored lines shown in the solid fill areas from CAD files.

Not sure if your question is regarding a visual for the structure or the finished deck area. If for the structure... use a grid pattern w/ an offset. Set the size to 48" x 96". This is typically how roof sheathing (decking) is laid out. In a grid pattern. If on the other hand this is for illustrating deck boards... 3-1/2" wide hatch can be used or 5/4 x 4 ....or 5-1/2" wide hatch for 5/4 x 6. Apologies if this response is stating the obvious. One only needs to make a poly-line in order to create the skin to represent the roof surface. That poly-line can be given a label which indicates the precise surface area.

You're very welcome. I can't take the credit however. I took time to help someone with a similar A-frame and extension a couple of years back. It's folks like Steve however who deserve the credit for posting the how-to videos.

That's a line weight issue for sure. Chief often has a heavy default. Do a shift select on those dimensions strings which shouldn't be any greater than 16. This is a preference (of mine) in that I like them to be a tad less heavy so that they don't overwhelm the drawings - especially details. All of the default line weights can be changed by going to EDIT ----> Default Settings... ---->Dimensions Also... when in doubt, use this preview tool (in Layout). It'll show the "heaviness" of certain lines before printing.

Again, glad to be able to offer any insights. By the way... I completely agreed that solids are the key to making things happen with custom details. For basic functionality however (with regard to wall assembly and roofing) there's very likely an easy solution. The walls are "snapping" correctly, but they may have different thicknesses and main layers.

Glad to be of help. The rainbow tool (material selector) is the best way to see what's up. Especially when projectiles may present as UFO's. That tool will let you know if it's sheetrock OR if the roof is highlighting. Roof highlighting helps narrow down the troubleshooting as you had conveniently discovered. In instances when small flat sections of sheetrock appears, the first culprit can often be a ceiling surface - which is bleeding through because there's no roof to "contain" it. That's why first floor roofing needs to be tight to the wall - but not too tight or it'll block the siding from showing. On a side... the same thing affects roof trim. On second floor gables, the upper frieze boards won't always show up because the 1st floor roof isn't quite snug. Anyway, glad that you got it figured out. It's one of the many intricacies in working with manual roofing. Regarding this ----> Click on the wall. There appears to be a break going on somewhere. Try to drag the missing stucco up. Raw plywood should not be showing.

Hi Cailin, Choose a door... and as Joe said, the tools are all there. You're in the driver's seat to make the glass panel door any height, width, thickness, color, and shape that you like. Hope this helps. Kind regards - Val

Chief can make anything. No work-arounds required. Use a glass panel door. Set the frame thickness to the desired slenderness. Steel doors are often no more than a couple of inches. Change the material accordingly. (presumably to dark steel) Please post again in case any of this is unclear. Attached is an example....

Without downloading your plan file... 3 things present themselves as being the possible causes and/or the remedies. One of them could be the solution.

The line weights (in the layout viewport) probably need some refining. The defaults can be far too heavy. Edge Line Defaults should be less than the standard 18. Reduce to 16. Pattern Line Defaults work well anywhere between 7 to 10 and w/ a medium to dark grey line color. This should help. On a side... the shadow tool really helps give exterior elevations some depth.

Bob… looks really great. Is this one generated with a paid version?

Agreed... I noted the double TVs. The potted plant growing through the table as well. Ability to stick with the basic ingredients would be quite helpful. The rendering process wound up completely changing the single door too.

Thanks again for posting this thread today Bob. Learned a few pointers, including command prompts asking the rendering machine not to change anything too drastically. Really great stuff. As per Susan... renderings sell the project, and they're to be somewhat expected these days.

Thanks for sharing Bob. To your point, the programs have a tendency to make minor changes. I tried a room w/ a online software called Luw.ai In 30 seconds, it went from a very basic camera view to a fairly well resolved rendering, but with minor changes. For example... the steel garage door went from dark iron to wood. Still, this is fairly impressive. Perhaps paid versions allow more control? Perhaps Chief is already woking on a new feature?!

The threshold allows for the break ...and per Rich, so does a border. A wide border often enhances a space by creating an interesting picture frame. These are fairly minimalistic transitions (below). Often times you'll see herringbone "rug patterns" surrounded by borders. It can be a nice touch. Adds interest for sure.

The flooring should have a visual flow. The angles will be far too busy. Keep the directions square to the rooms and run the hallway flooring long. ...Parallel to the walls. Short sections of hallway flooring tend to foreshorten the space. Don't angle the hallway floors, and definitely not in that one room. It's going to look really off. Use a threshold to make the transition in that one area, or if possible, mitre the boards into one another. That would be a great look.

The lower roof won't allow the attic wall to come through. Break the roof so that it has (2) valleys, and pull the main ridge down - so that it rests right in front of the gable for the reverse roof. This is what's going to allow the attic wall to appear.

In due time. There's definitely more to come in the years ahead. What you're describing can be done (sort of) ...but only by a screen recording rather than making the video with the program.

It looks like the settings are fine. What happens on the other side? Can you copy the other roof and place it into position with the one which is acting up? It's hard to say why there's an issue, but if the copy does the same thing, that would help hone in on the problem.