VHampton

Michael's reply beat me to it by a few minutes. Make curved landings. Start with the first curved tread. It appears to be about 14" Copy & replicate (2) treads (landing). In the x direction - move forward approx. 12" (this ensures that the riser overlaps the landing. In the y direction - go up 7" or whatever riser height is required. A general observation... the exterior space appears to be too shallow. (The IRC code excerpt is below) Even when an exterior door swings inward, the outdoor walk-space has to be a minimum of three feet to avoid a trip and fall. There shall be a landing or floor on each side of each exterior door. The width of each landing shall be not less than the door served. Landings shall have a dimension of not less than 36 inches (914 mm) measured in the direction of travel. The slope at exterior landings shall not exceed 1/4 unit vertical in 12 units horizontal (2 percent).

Yep... that's what I meant with the miniature decks. The framing and sono-tubes are the added bonus rather than going after this with the stair tools alone. Nice job by the way Michael. CA has come really far over the years. "There may be more control that way even if calculating the landings (mini decks) involves some work."

Gene... The answer is that one or the other gets locked. I would start with the bottom landing. Lock it up, and see how a 7.5" rise works. Then adjust the riser height until it meets up with the top landing (deck) accordingly. On the other hand... why not build (3) landings? That's the way the model is reading in the Sketch up. 3 landings with (2) independent stair section. The landings provide the deck structure & footings which is quite handy. (Landing 1 looks like a section of stone or something. Not sure). Either way... There may be more control that way even if calculating the landings (mini decks) involves some work.

Post the plan for sure. When roof trim won't show up, it's often because it's got interference. What's happening is that the lower roof isn't allowing the upper section enough breathing room to reveal itself. Either the upper roof doesn't have a *break* and it's it's colliding with the lower... or vice versa. Essentially the rake board on that upper is being choked out by the lower roof.

Notorious for creating bloat. Ideally jpegs only. Excellent work Michael!

Any number of things can be going on. 1.) Open a sample plan. File>Download Sample Plans. Try one out and see how it goes. If X16 is working ok, then you'll know it's your plan. 2.) Check the Rendering settings. Preferences> Render> Troubleshooting. Try toggling through a couple of options. Not saying that this is the issue, but tech support is always a great help when transitioning to new releases. They usually want to see what the settings are under "Render". 3.) What's being described could be as simple as a video card setting. While the computer is going through the motions so to speak, check the Task Manager to see if a process/program has high CPU, Memory, or Disk usage. Last bit of troubleshooting... Post the plan.

Totally agreed Doug. Perhaps it's unfinished? This kind of stuff happens though. Many years ago a so called famous interior designer specifically asked for no handrails. I told her that she must have a really good lawyer. Crickets.

Dang... That's some Ninja Chief Architect stuff right there. Much respect Mr. T.

The warning pop-up appears to be hit or miss. After a few 'no thank you(s)', the command prompt for maximum saves appears to ignore opening the archive folder altogether. Regarding number of saves... the more the better. You can screen capture them and save as a time sheet of sorts. These days most computers are so chock full or memory capacity, that it doesn't bog down the system in order to store dozens of archives.

EDIT... So again thank you everyone for taking a look. The culprit was finally chased down. As it turns out, this is not an X-15 plan issue w/ X-16. The house has a stone terrace with foundation walls. (Those outer foundation walls had "room definition".) By unchecking "room definition" for the terrace foundation, the exterior walls on the back of the house went back to normal behavior. (Meaning that they can now be aligned using the Align Wall tool.) Posting this for anyone in the future in case they come across this condition. Many thanks for offering to assist and for your time!! It is greatly appreciated.

Thank you Gene. I re-uploaded. The plan file is way over the limit. The upload works now. ...again, If I could only change the current foundation walls without having to rebuild the foundation.

Thanks Rene... I reset the defaults for the foundation. The walls are aligning correctly now. I'm afraid to do a reset defaults or rebuild the foundation after doing over a year of work on it. I may have to experiment and see if that's possible. Foundation & Wall.plan

Just recently, I noticed a plan where the foundation alignment is placing the foundation to the center of the 2 x 6 framing above. The main layer designations are correct. The foundation defaults were reset as well. Any help would be appreciated. In the first attachment, I made a 16" wide foundation wall (to show how obvious the center placement) is after using the Align Wall Tool.

Have you tried ARCAT? They've been around for very long time. Every product manufacturer has a free detail available for download. You may find something where it can be adapted accordingly. https://www.arcat.com/company/mortar-net-solutions-34325/cad

CA always has sample plans on the Home page. Not that they may be relevant to your project, but there's really helpful information, as well as some nicely detailed kitchens and baths. Check out a few of the plans and layouts for some boiler plate details and notes. Good stuff you will find there.

As mentioned the spike is temporary. The FEMA elevation certificate is the final word, and the pin no longer serves a purpose. ...unless monitoring the tree growth holds any interest.

Question... what layer is the color coding on? A.) If the color coding was made with room fill... then that's easy enough to toggle on and off. The layer is "Rooms". B.) If the colors were made with poly-lines (CAD, Default) then you may not want to turn off the primary CAD layer. Place them all on a new layer. Call it "CAD, Color Code" or whatever suits. Turn off that layer for the MEP layout.

Totally agree Eric. The manufacturer catalogues are excellent, and many times the files don't involve multiple surface counts. The OP doesn't have a signature with version, so it's hard to say if he can even download... but to your point, the digital locker is the best place. The 3D Warehouse is apparently endorsed by CA for various items, and sometimes that source has some pretty neat things... including real world cars. @Gawdzira thank you. lol.

Try here... A trusted source for .skp files. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/search/models?q=chaise+lounges&hl=en Scroll down the page. They've got some good ones. Nice and simple. Or you can use this one: Chaise_Lounge.skp

Interesting... In looking at both issues, they've got the same running bond. What happens if the pattern gets changed? Maybe try opening an archived plan and layout. It's easy to copy and paste them onto the Desktop for quick exploration. Changing the siding pattern to something else. If it doesn't act up... that's a good sign. Use a different brick pattern rather than the basic running bond w/o grout joints.

Glad that worked out Brian... ....and yes, there are indeed more ways to make this happen as per Perry. Hope you that have both have really great Father's Day - All the best!

You can indeed copy and paste a toolbar - and/or the entire Toolbar folder. Drop it into the Chief Architect Premier X14 Data folder. Once that takes place... open the version that you're working with (X-14) Go to > Toolbars ----> Customize Toolbars ----> Configurations. The Import tab will navigate to the primary Data folder where the newly imported version can be selected. Import the new one. Good luck... It should be relatively easy. ...There may be other methods, but this one works well.

What happens when you open TM without bringing in a model? If everything looks smooth... it's not the software. Possible issue... your model may be undergoing some Z fighting. Materials can bleed through one another if they're paper thin. Secondly... a model which doesn't have a close relationship to the point of origin (0-0) can result in z fighting as well. Try this... Take a 3D perspective overview in Chief. Turn off terrain. Get rid of any cars or 3D stuff which you won't need. Then make the .dae model for export.

As an option... if the older computer is still functional, load V10 on that system. Do a remote connect from your new computer. It's kind of like having a Cloud based server, but with an old school machine. In terms of the 64 bit vs. 32 bit, that could be the issue. Until then... sharing is pretty easy to set up.

The top windows were placed first. Frame at the corner glass is set to "Mitered" The bottom windows were placed second. Frame on the corner unit has a "Post". When you say join... you mean placed close together vs. "mull" correct? Nothing should be joined - aka mulled on the corner units (top to bottom) in case that's what was going on. Hope this helps. Plan is attached. All the best. Untitled 1.plan