Larry_Sweeney

It would be nice if in the door and window specification dbx. for each indiividual unit you would have the option to turn on or off the "opening indicator" and not just have a layer for all or nothing.

I run into this all the time. First open the symbol and check to see if the 2D cad block is checked to be transparent or not . If it isn't then I've found that rather then "fight" CA I just make a filled rectangular polyline the size of the table top and then block it with the table so if I move the table the filled rectangle moves with it.

Check this out. http://www.backtocad.com/engl/engl-pdf-dwg.html

I've been harping about better control for windows for years.-----Good luck! Have you ever seen an exterior sill with no slope? CA must have because that's the only way they make them. Oh, I know you can add your "own sill" on the exterior of the window, but it attaches to the outside bottom of the flat window frame alon. Also, when attaching a window stool to the inside, there should be an option to set the stool to the lower sash (double hung) instead the the bottom frame. There has been many discussions on windows (and doors) over the years and as of yet very little has been done for a "do over". CA keeps talking about making an accurate 3D model. This is a big factor in the total picture for a good 3D model.

First you have to make sure you have built all your framing. Next "shoot" a view with your 3D camera. Open your layer sets up and use your "3D Framing Set" layer set. Make sure in that layer set you have your framing layers on (checked) that you want to view. That should do the trick.

Go to Preferences and under Edit check in Behaviors and see if your "Edit Type" might have concentric checked instead of default. It looks/acts like to me your concentric got checked somehow.

What type/age of home do you have? Bucks County is known for some great early homes. I have worked as a restoration contractor/designer since the 1970's. I've done everything from full blown restorations to additions/renovations of early homes, to new homes that could pass for a 220 yrs old home. Now almost all my work is on the design end of projects. If you have an old home and want the interior work to be "tastefully updated", but still have a period look I would be happy to talk/work with you. My son lives near Doylestown and we visit the area quite often. I live about 2 1/2 hrs. away in north central Pa. near Bloomsburg. I am quite busy, but I never try and pass up older home projects. If you would like to discuss your project and our schedules would work, you can contact me by the information below. Thank you and have a great day. Larry Sweeney lgsweeney@verizon.net 570-458-5289

The quick answer is YES. Scott has some great videos "somewhere" on doing this. I think it is on ChiefTutor.com if I remember correctly. I think in the videos he goes over how you can get different materials or colors on each side.

Try making your clipping distance farther away. I find that sometimes I have to go quite a distance. I'm not sure what goes on if you make the distance to far, but just play with the numbers and see if that is the problem.

Barry..............Click on railing wall that you want no post at wall and open the Railing Specifications . Go to "Rail Style" under Newels/Post and check "NO Half Post at wall dbx. (attachment)

Lew........Yes I use mine a lot in both B&W and color. I also do quite a few pictures. Other than the cost of the ink I have no complaints (knock on wood). I have been giving some thought to upgrading to a printer/plotter that can do 24x36 prints. I haven't been very serious yet in that department-----maybe by the end of the year. Color prints "kill me" (well my wallet that is) at the print shop.

I use a HP 9800, It will print up to 13x19. I've had it for 4 or 5 yrs. now and it never gave me a problem. The only thing I hate about it (and this is probably true for most printers) is the cost of the ink cartridges.

Scott............Thanks for doing the video. It's as close to perfection as you can get in X6. I really think it should work without doing what I call "farting around" or in CA terms--a work around. My personality makes me cringe when I can't make it perfect----sorry. I think I'll "squeak" a little and send the problem into support along with a link to this thread and your Youtube video. It'll be interesting to see what they say. Have a great day!

Scott.................Looks great. I'll be the first to watch the video and study it very carefully. I tried doing what you said (I think) and got different results. I even made both shafts material "opening (no material) at the same time. Thank you for your time and effort. It's much appreciated.

Conclusion........................1. First attachment shows a room with a ceiling. Skylight looks fine (or as good as CA can do it). 2. Second attachment shows a room without a ceiling and then a level ceiling plane "drawn in" at the same level as the room with a ceiling in the first attachment. Big difference in the way they look. In the second attachment the shaft doesn't attach to the ceiling correctly or look anything like the shaft in the first attachment. To me this is wrong and I consider it a "BUG". Has anyone else taken the time to see if they come up with the same results. If so, I'll send it in to support.

Scott.........I tried the "down and dirty" solution you suggested and other problems showed up. I made the ceiling plane framing 1/16" and I get the projections shown on the first attachment with the question mark. In the second attachment I changed the ceiling plane framing to 3" and the projections changed to something shorter. I have the bottom chord of the scissor trusses set for 5 1/2". When I change the ceiling plane framing to 5 1/2" the projections go away. With this in mind I know where (or sort of) the projection are coming from, but I don't know why. I also don't understand why the skylight shaft and the ceiling doesn't come together at "A" in the first attachment. I'm hoping this is a bug with using a scissor truss and skylights. It would make me feel better. I just can't understand what I'm doing wrong. I'll have to open a new plan, make a small building with a ceiling pitch different from the roof pitch and see what happen when a skylight is installed. Have you tried that to see if you get the results I'm getting? If I still get the same result I'll have to send it in to support.

Doug............This complaint has been going on for years. As far as I know the only way to get around this is to do them manually. It's not that difficult---just a PITA! Once you have one returm made you can copy it for the othe returns. Put it in the "Suggestions". I keep being told that "the squeaky wheel gets greased". The problem is I think this suggestion has been "greased" so often that it has slid of the desk.

Scott................Not getting anywhere. I guess it's time to zip. the plan. It's one of those "PROJECTS" I was just doing as a favor for a friend and I end up losing hair over it. Oh well, what are friends for. Thanks for your time and knowledge-----always appreciated. Quaker Const. Addition.zip

Scott.............I did try manually moving the hole, but I would still get the same offsets in the shaft opening at the top and bottom of of the skylight as shown in the new attachments.Do I need to post this simple plan? I'm drawing a blank. It has to be something I don't have setup correctly, but my brain must be lost in the "semi-retirement world"

I want to put skylights in a roof where I'm using scissor trusses with a 5/12 pitch for the roof and a 3/12 pitch for the ceiling below. When I install the skylight the ceiling hole does not line up with the shaft. I show this at points "A" and "B" in the first two attachments. I tried deleteing the hole in the ceiling and then make my own hole in the ceiling, but I got the message shown in the third attachment. Am I having this problem because of the two different pitches or am I doing something wrong somewhere else? I'm not attaching the plan at this time because I'm thinking this is a very simple plan using scissor trusses. If no one can come up with the solution I will zip the plan later.

It's gable at both ends and I'm not able to add a raised heel due to other factors. I had gone over all this with the truss manufacturer and they said the 2.75 pitch was workable for the span I noted.

I was thinking the 2" difference was something I would work with for starters also. I had a call into a truss company from last week and they just got back to me while I was writing this reply. I was told that with a 4.5 pitch on the exterior and a 33' span I could do a max. of 2.75 pitch on the interior using 2x6 chords @ 24" centers. Thanks for everyone's advice. They also told me the 2" "rule of thumb" is a good thing to use.

Truthfully I don't use trusses very often (stick built "old timer") and just thought I could find a quick answer from someone on the forum. I have a customer that wants me to design a pavilion that will have a 4.5/12 roof pitch with a 33' span. The customer wants a cathedral ceiling. I thought it would be much less expensive to use a scissor truss with a less pitch on the interior. Is there a "rule of thumb" as to how much less of a pitch has to be on the ceiling as compared to the actual roof pitch? I wasn't sure if it would depend on the span or a "rule of thumb" and yes, I do know someone is going to tell me to call an engineer or the truss company. Thanks in advance for your input.

Jay......No. The Time Tracker is not shown in the "Tools" drop down list.

mcrump.............If you don't mind me asking. How is the large roof with the cathedral ceiling going to be constructed? That's a long span with a lot of width for a cathedral ceiling. The cathedral ceiling looks like it goes all the way to the ridge with no collar ties of any kind. I did not download it, so I'm just observing from the pictures.