johnny

Thanks Glenn you nailed my questions. On the subject of dimensions, I am trying to setup my default plan to work the way you set me the example plan to look at. I can't find the setting that regulates the distance the extension lines start at - as you have in your files. Also, right now Chief produces 3 dimension segments, however I would really like to edit what those segments dimension. Is there a more specific area to change this other than defaults? Thanks again for all your help. dimensions.plan

Hey guys - a couple quick questions. 1. How do I get interior dimensions to NOT place a tick on each side of the wall? ...the obvious option doesn't seem to work. 2. How do I get auto-exterior dimension to ignore clerestory windows?

That worked fairly easy too. I wish the footings could connect, but at least im getting what I need. thx

but if you want to just draw a footing shouldn't it do exactly that? I'm trying to figure out why you'd want a same-thickness wall on top of the footing.

Where I was looking to use this is continuous footings instead of pads for interior floor beam support (crawl). Some homes we spec to pour these footing "lines" and hoped this tool would work for that.

Yep, the wall to invisible works as I expected. Although, because there is a wall element at all it wants to connect to the foundation walls in ways I didn't want it to. Perhaps I can keep working with it, but I am starting to see why manual slab tools may be the best answer.

So I was looking at another thread about footings, and wanted to see what the "slab footing tool" was. To me, that tool doesn't act anything like you'd expect for a "footing" tool. What the heck is that tool supposed to do? The real confusion is the fact there are 2 sections of this "wall"...and you control the wall more than what appears to be the "footing". Very odd to me. Here is a video simply showing my confusion...nothing much to see.

The window lites will be the least of your concerns....meaning its a breeze to do custom lites in CA. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00930/creating-custom-muntins.html There is a lot of attention to detail needed for this plan. Looks like a fun project though.

If its 8' then I would try and work with your neighbors to redistribute the block's property into a configuration that works better for everyone. If you're neighbors property is 8'x53' then you should go to them and try and rearrange the property lines and perhaps look at a condominium division. If three of you guys got together and placed your 8'x53x3 floors you'd end up with a way better plan for each of you. If its infill then something like this might work. http://www.blogto.com/city/2015/08/8_foot_wide_toronto_home_for_sale_for_750k/

You need to set the window separation to the correct dimension. You want your windows to "connect" such that it makes a mull in the middle, but you need to make sure that mull is the right width.

No, they should not be mulled. keep them separate, and remember that back then framing members were true dimensions - not nominal. If that is a 2x4 wall, then there are one or two studs between the windows with room for the frame (R/O). The leg/mullion casing is designed to cover both the span of the studs and partially the window frame. I have no idea how accurate you need to be though.

It appears to me the head and leg casing looks the same (so choose or make the profile and set the casing style), but there is a rosette and plinth block detail. Just bring in the rosette and plinth block as a symbol.(each separate). There are rosette's in the library, but you may need to make your own or search the 3d warehouse (sketchup). You can manually place those thereafter. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u1965f32a-e608-477e-9e9f-dec95d9fbddc (you will need to add the trim under and above the rosette) https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=6526f6d287a537ec7a670d53787514ba (you will need to customize obviously if you want it exact)

Not a bad idea - I will try that too. Perhaps the thin wall would better stay in its place. My biggest issue with the walls was they were making my "attic" profile wonky so the trusses weren't shaping correctly. I'll try and thin wall.

So you know, your sides for the "roof opening" doesn't match, so your conditions on "problem" side is different. I was trying to work with this, but I guess you can't break the line of a "roof opening"??? Seems odd, so i guess you need to re-draw that opening or use individual roof planes (which is what I do). I was able to get the file working 90%+ but not being able to edit that roof opening threw me for a loop too.

I can't get that to work. I tried with a project recently (sending to structural engineer) and nothing I could do made it so he could open the file. Id say it was him, but then did this for the truss guy and same result.

I think I solved the issue. I just made an end truss, selected the profile, made CAD detail, made a ploly solid to represent the ply/siding and copied back into the plan. It worked, and got my wall out of there that was messing up other aspects of the "attic space". Maybe someone has a better idea, but this did work. I also thought about doing a wall material region but thought the poly-solid was simple enough.

When you build an attic wall for a dutch gable condition, the reality is that "wall" is typically just plywood/siding on a gable end truss. Unless I am missing it, I can't see a way to accurately get this condition in CA....the wall appears a requirement for Chief. However, the problem with a wall is when you go to do your truss and framing it just doesn't work well - since the connections are difficult to control. I get trusses that aren't correct. Before posting the plan file I guess i'll ask the question - is there a way to get a gable wall face on a dutch gable to be accurately modeled and framed?

Kevin and Joey are correct - you really need to use walls since that is exactly how it is supposed to be built. If you are doing just a concept for now I suppose a poly-solid would work for visual.

Chief's tools as they exist for driveways and roads dont meet ADA standards - which makes them near useless to me. Its a nonnegotiable element for the building/planning departments nowadays. This part of Chief needs attention as well.

Auto dormer isn't the solution for that condition. You should build that roof plane manually. If you need more info let me know...

Under framing tools -

I really dont understand. From the writing it appears you are part of the stakeholder group not the architect. Why not select an architect and ask them if their software works the way you need? ...or....Is that what this is - are you looking for an actual architect and want to verify they are using software that will work for your needs?

I know we can save wall types in a library, but is there a way to change all the walls in a plan with one from the library?

Id love to watch something like that if you guys end up doing it.

You can zip first or place in free drobbox and put link to download.