johnny

Yeah, I just dont see any way to make the handrail centered. Too bad, this would have been a very nice and controllable solution. Scott had a video for the condition, but the ramp would have been all too cool. This type of knee-wall is probably the most common type of spec-home grade method for that condition.

oh, that is a problem where if I get the edge of the "straight" ramp section too close to the edge of the landing it breaks my stairs for some reason. Is there a way to lock the stairs?... although if I can't fix #1 then this won't work and I suppose doesn't matter.

If you notice the handrail, balusters, etc aren't aligned to the center of the "ramp" - they are off to 1 side. This is due to the fact the ramp wants to place 2 railings on each side but I only want 1.

I am so close on getting the ramp too to work perfectly for my stair knee-wall. I would much rather use this method over trying to manipulate a raked wall. However, I have a couple obstacles can't solve. 1. I want only 1 handrail, so when I turn off a side of the rail, the balusters, newels aren't aligned to the center of the "ramp" (aka wall). 2. When i go to align the 2 segments of my "ramp" (raked following stairs and straight section at landing) my stairs disconnect from the landing. Is the ramp trying to connect to the landing??...can I stop that? Thanks! stairs.plan

Will do - thanks Michael. This is something that needs to be fixed ASAP IMO.

Since this thread already deals with the subject - I really like the slab with footing tool - but wish we could edit the profile of the footing. Has this ever been asked for?

You guys have me curious though how those act as the roof as well? I'll play around with it....

Yep, the walls keeps me from blocking. Your idea about the reflect seemed to work for me in this instance, since I was trying to go 180 deg. However, I have other objects for this plan I need to rotate just 90 degree and reflect doesn't work.

Even when I explode it doesn't work. You're saying on your system it worked?...now I am really perplexed. What could be diff about my system?..i downloaded the new update yesterday so I am fully current.

Its just kinda crazy I can't figure this out. For some reason I can't simply rotate a section of objects - a fireplace detail i want to use in other plans. I'm just so tired of running into this kind of thing over and over and over and over again. Does it ever end? inept.plan

Are you asking how you construct such a thing, or how to model in CA? If its just model in CA could you provide more information (maybe a proposed concept section?)

icloud, like similar "cloud" (i.e. networked drive) should show up locally (your computer) as a hard drive you can save files in. I use Dropbox which is nearly the same thing. All this really does is allow you (or your team) access to a file but it does nothing for multiple people working on the same file.

Thanks!...got it. Many different areas to change default options, but I suppose once you know you know.

Thanks Glenn you nailed my questions. On the subject of dimensions, I am trying to setup my default plan to work the way you set me the example plan to look at. I can't find the setting that regulates the distance the extension lines start at - as you have in your files. Also, right now Chief produces 3 dimension segments, however I would really like to edit what those segments dimension. Is there a more specific area to change this other than defaults? Thanks again for all your help. dimensions.plan

Hey guys - a couple quick questions. 1. How do I get interior dimensions to NOT place a tick on each side of the wall? ...the obvious option doesn't seem to work. 2. How do I get auto-exterior dimension to ignore clerestory windows?

That worked fairly easy too. I wish the footings could connect, but at least im getting what I need. thx

but if you want to just draw a footing shouldn't it do exactly that? I'm trying to figure out why you'd want a same-thickness wall on top of the footing.

Where I was looking to use this is continuous footings instead of pads for interior floor beam support (crawl). Some homes we spec to pour these footing "lines" and hoped this tool would work for that.

Yep, the wall to invisible works as I expected. Although, because there is a wall element at all it wants to connect to the foundation walls in ways I didn't want it to. Perhaps I can keep working with it, but I am starting to see why manual slab tools may be the best answer.

So I was looking at another thread about footings, and wanted to see what the "slab footing tool" was. To me, that tool doesn't act anything like you'd expect for a "footing" tool. What the heck is that tool supposed to do? The real confusion is the fact there are 2 sections of this "wall"...and you control the wall more than what appears to be the "footing". Very odd to me. Here is a video simply showing my confusion...nothing much to see.

The window lites will be the least of your concerns....meaning its a breeze to do custom lites in CA. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00930/creating-custom-muntins.html There is a lot of attention to detail needed for this plan. Looks like a fun project though.

If its 8' then I would try and work with your neighbors to redistribute the block's property into a configuration that works better for everyone. If you're neighbors property is 8'x53' then you should go to them and try and rearrange the property lines and perhaps look at a condominium division. If three of you guys got together and placed your 8'x53x3 floors you'd end up with a way better plan for each of you. If its infill then something like this might work. http://www.blogto.com/city/2015/08/8_foot_wide_toronto_home_for_sale_for_750k/

You need to set the window separation to the correct dimension. You want your windows to "connect" such that it makes a mull in the middle, but you need to make sure that mull is the right width.

No, they should not be mulled. keep them separate, and remember that back then framing members were true dimensions - not nominal. If that is a 2x4 wall, then there are one or two studs between the windows with room for the frame (R/O). The leg/mullion casing is designed to cover both the span of the studs and partially the window frame. I have no idea how accurate you need to be though.

It appears to me the head and leg casing looks the same (so choose or make the profile and set the casing style), but there is a rosette and plinth block detail. Just bring in the rosette and plinth block as a symbol.(each separate). There are rosette's in the library, but you may need to make your own or search the 3d warehouse (sketchup). You can manually place those thereafter. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u1965f32a-e608-477e-9e9f-dec95d9fbddc (you will need to add the trim under and above the rosette) https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=6526f6d287a537ec7a670d53787514ba (you will need to customize obviously if you want it exact)