joey_martin

Since no one is going to come right out and say it....No, using Chief Architect you cannot get the slab to set on top of the stemwall like those of us in the Midwest build. You have to use one of the workarounds that some folks are showing, or set the slab to be flush, like Chief wants it, and when doing the detail for that area, pull the slab fill over and move on. I will give you the first piece of advice I give to people that do my training class...stop fighting the program! Chief does what it does, adjust and move on or you will spin your wheels for days trying to get that slab to set on top of the wall.

Must be a difference in preference, or print set up. I always use gray scale. Patterns set at 2 and edge set at 18. I have my template set up for this so I guess I never give it much thought.

My line weights are set up so that 0 is the thinnest line and 10 is the thickest I use while in plan view. I never understood the line weights in Chief so I made my own that think the way I think. 0 is small and 10 is big.

Make sure the line weight is set in the layer set for the plan view. And, make sure that when you send a plan to layout you are not making a copy of the view and are actually changing the wrong layer set line weight.

Thank you Michael. Glad I could help you.

Open the roof tools and look for the ceiling plane tool. ceil.bmp

Ceiling planes. Easiest way, in my opinion, to produce that ceiling and get the framing correct. If the room is on an outside wall, and the pitch matches, then I would use the rafter for the sides that I could and use ceiling planes for the others to tie everything together.

Model it like you build it. Cut a hole in the ceiling plane, add a ceiling plane up 12" or so higher, then add the sloped ceiling planes that tie it all together.

Nevermind....won't work for that.

Block them together...or MULL them, and make sure SINGLE WALL HOLE is checked. That should do it. You may have to manipulate the casing/moldings, but it should model correctly.

I have a session scheduled for this coming Saturday Feb. 14th at 10AM Eastern. Email me for details.

looks like a dormer or directly under rafter situation. If you have the room situated correctly under the roof, it will take care of itself, if this a remodel drawing, and you are only dealing with the room, use a ceiling plan situated from the lower wall up to the 8' ceiling plan.

As you and I discussed on Saturday, I think it would speed things up for you to have a slab template separate from a crawl template. The only reason I don't have a different template for crawl vs. basement is because they are so similar. If I did more slab homes, I would have a template for them.

Alright. This is what I get when I am working on an elevation. Like I said, I marked it up to a video card (Intel HD Graphics) and moved on.

My pattern lines are always in my standard gray scale, and are always at the same line weight from plan view to layout page. I'm sure it has to do with the video card, or maybe a setting. I just haven't had the time, or frankly just didn't care since it doesn't affect my construction documents. I don't have my laptop with me this morning but will check the settings this afternoon.

Mine are that way as well. Can't see patterns on my laptop, but they show on my desktop. I marked it up to a video card issue and moved on about a year ago. It doesn't affect the layout, or render view so I stopped fighting the software.

Name the room in the attic and check the structure tab to ensure that ceiling is checked. By default, when you name a room ATTIC there is no ceiling.

Place a point on the screen and use the transform/replicate tool to move the marker to 0,0. I have a point saved on my profile plan.

Thank you Steve, it was my pleasure! You know where to find me if you need anything else.

I'm in north central Indiana if I can help. joeymdp@gmail.com, and some of my work can be found on my Facebook page (facebook.com/martindesignplanning)

Or just create a room with invisible walls as the exterior.

It happens a lot. I generally ignore it until my final "punchlist" and about 80% of the time it fixes itself, the other 20% I select it and uncheck the box that says "no molding on this line".

I believe he is up in the greater Chicago area..Indiana side.

It would save time...but using SHIFT SELECT makes it pretty quick to turn those gray, and I only do it when I'm ready to create the PDF, not every version.

We have been able to do this in the past by using the EDIT LAYOUT tool and select what you wanted "faded" and changing the color to gray. I use this method when doing sections and I want the building behind to "fade".