SHCanada2

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  1. i've noticed here its a bit of a standard practice for realtors to use iguide or matterport. Alberta real estate regulatory body has some rules for when floor space is included (over 5ft ceiling I think), so Iguide sells that feature constantly. I dont think I have not seen a listing with a iguide or matterport( in the pst 5 years), which means they are not created from blueprints. There is a website "honest door" which you can see some of the info realtors see for free. sometimes you can see the floorplan for recently sold listings. you can pay a fee to get a package which I assume is all of the pictures (and if the realtor did a floor plan, the floor plan) of any sold house. So I think, if something was sold in the last 15 years, there is a good chance the floor plan by iguide or matteprort is on the MLS.
  2. yes it certainly is interesting, and odd...there would be nothing to nail the window to above the bottom plate
  3. its more for picking up things I missed, and would not be on the CA app, for instance if the stairs are proud of the wall, or if I missed a dropped beam. or even to double check a CA window size. So more like something like this point clouds can be viewed in point cloud viewers and then in that software you can measure between 2 points. It looks like you are capturing the window widths and distance to wall with a laser. CA captures that in the app. Are you capturing that "just in case"? ...this is my conundrum with the app: how much do I still take by laser that it actually captures? door widths, window WXH, location of both of those, plus all the room dimensions? The realtor plans never have the windows/doors, which is why the CA app was promising. Here is perhaps a question for you. If you had the realtor plan ahead of time, would you put that onto your tablet ahead of time, and just jot down measurements on it as you go around with the laser, or would you use the CA app?
  4. thanks for taking a look. you are correct, it was picking off the top to corner of the framing. Which means then the framing member is not parallel to the window. So I did a CAD detail from view, and sure enough it is off. -44.76 is the angle of the framing member, where the window line is -45 that is what the 1.4142135 multiplier I have comes from, sq rt of 2 (i.e. for a 12:12 pitch, SQRT (sq(1)+sq(1)) =SQRT(2). so in your example, if one wanted to get it "right" per se, where the RO is per the angles on the right and left, and on the bottom, shouldnt it be if you wanted for an RO of say 10 inches on the each side: for the height SQRT(10^2+10^2)+10 =24.142 which is SQRT(2)*10+10 and for the width SQRT(10^2+10^2) + SQRT(10^2+10^2)=28.284 which is SQRT(2)*10*2 ? It also doesnt always look like it rebuilds the framing when making small changes to the RO and then it decided to frame a box when i put it down to 2". any ideas on why that is? but back to your plan, is your framing member at 45deg? attached is the plan with an extra 35 on the width and it tells me in the dialog, the RO width is 179, but in the elevation it is only ~164 triangle window.plan
  5. i deleted the window and readded, and now it is closer still odd that it is outby 5/16. and the bottom has a tiny gap instead of same gap. must have something to do with the pitch,but the multiple by 1.41 doesnt seem to work....
  6. does it on a stock plan, just not as bad In my plan,, I changed the RO to be the actual adjusted value vs say 1 in, as 1 inch is on the angle. 1" on the horiz would be 1.4" and then for the vertical, it would be 1.41 at the top and 1 at the bottom. but that clearly didnt work. I tried it on a stock plan and it actually comes pretty close, so not sure what is going on with my plan although it does not reflect 10" for some reason, 8 at the bottom 11 on the sides so not exactly sure what it is doing
  7. Customer wants windows at walls edge and wants to see how much space is between truss and window to figure out framing and casing sizes. below the truss will require a minimum of one plate I cant get the wall framing detail to show the window, but a regular elevation can. The truss is 12:12, but when I dimension the framing it is not 1:2 ratio height to width(which it should be for 12:12)...and you can also see the framing skew (not parallel to truss). Its also not framing below the truss(it is framing the wall to the underside of the roof. Anyone know how to force the framing to the underside of the truss (I suppose I can move it, but not ideal) I'm using a tudor arch with 0 deg to create the window. I originally just tried adjust heights in left and right, but CA would not allow a zero and forced a 1/4". Anyone know a solution to at least the first problem (framing not observing RO and not observing angle of window)?
  8. i'm debating getting a used ipad. what you do is not feasible on the phone ....although I could probably capture it on the phone and then send to my tablet (which i paid $200 open box 5 years ago vs current price for a used 5 year old IPAD pro at $700...not my favorite thing to support apple) Are you using the 13" screen? I would still like something that also gave a point cloud as a backup in case I have to measure something...
  9. 2.33 Printing and Plotting • When printing a Layout, the Print View dialog will now remember the previous DPI and Page Range used for printing that Layout. something so simple, yet so productive, as I cant count the number of times I would forget to set the page range, and then have to print again
  10. that what I found with the CA app, it gets all the walls/rooms layed out, its quite nice. The question then though is what to adjust when you take a couple control measurements with a laser. I tend to get lost in the constantly adjusting walls, and then not remembering which ones I adjusted. At the end of the day, I have to match a survey's exterior dimensions so as to not impact setbacks. So I have yet to get a great work flow going. The best improvement I have had so far, is when a house is sold, it generally has the realtor's floor plans, so I print that out and take laser measurements and write them on the paper....but still, sometimes I miss a window location. My ultimate desired technology would be for it to create a floor plan and a point cloud at the same time, so I could go back to the point cloud and measure anything I missed. And of course not have to pay by the sq ft. Any of these sq ft companies, charge what is the equivalent to me doing it at $100 and hour so I might as well pay myself. ..end of my little rant. when you say it is more accurate than hand measuring, did you run a laser across the full length (if possible) or the longest distance in your house, and compare the two. I'm curious as to the accuracy
  11. How far out was it compared to a laser for the full width of the house?. Did it do the whole, "make certain walls wider to stich things together" type of thing? Did it pick up plumbing walls? did you have to measure closets?
  12. This is a new product of theirs, the LX1, it is built specifically for indoor floor plans
  13. that is an odd looking dwg file for 4 walls:
  14. I went to their demo last week. I asked a couple questions in the chat, but I did not get an answer. In their demo it looked to show the bottom stairs proud of the wall in the video, but the floor plan showed the wall flush to the stairs(i.e. it looked like it moved a wall erroneously). 2. It has a feature to normalize the walls widths, which then appears to make the one room larger (vs moving the exterior wall). I asked, which dimension is correct? I also asked if it could provide the raw measurements so I can make the choice of how to make it all fit. Doesnt look like it shows them. Once again it is an algorithm, and you do not know what it is moving to stich everything together. At the end of day I need measurements like this for the interior designer to work with: Maybe it is good for the rest of the house which does not need the detail that the portion under renovation will need, but then, why not use the CA as Built app. It does the same thing, and you do not have to draw any walls. it does it for you
  15. I just raise and lower the roofs, rebuild the trusses, until i get the desired heel height