GeneDavis

Might help to know what software you are trying to use, and what you are running it on. Find the way to show us using a customized signature. It's done in your account settings.

Cannot comment on code, but . . . The carpenters that put down that subfloor work atop the existing slab are going to need some beers after all the work they'll do to get the top surface of the ripped joists good and level. Unless that slab was poured to WalMart flatness specs (and has stayed that way for 63 years) they will do a lot of work to make things good. I would lean toward specifying a minimum 1/4" space between the resawn joists and the sleepers they bear upon. The crew can prepare some ripped 2x stock at various thicknesses to use when laying the joists in place. Toenailed spikes can go through all. As for good building practice, I'd specify pressure-treated materials for everything: joists, sleepers, and even plywood subfloor, and hot dipped galvanized fasteners.

Don't know about materials. I just downloaded a Bertazzoni range into a new Sketchup file, saved it as "Bertazzoni range," and imported it into a Chief file. I always do .skp imports this same way. File>import>import_3D_symbol, and then just go to the file folder and select it. No problems, but one may have to do a little materials management. You might want to edit your sig so we can see what Chief version you are using.

Access stairs to basement from service and mudroom level are a mess in this plan. If you've the time and are willing, show me how to clean them up. You'll note if examining the plan that I have a wall situation on the R of the stairs down to below, that I did as a stacked-on wall, and maybe that is the one causing the railing wall above to not generate as I want. The splits on the open-below rooms are to deal with two differing ceiling situations above, one framed flat, the other not there and framed by roof above. Sushko Mirror Lake Drive.plan

When the fireplace hearth is 12+ inches above finished floor, may the all-masonry hearth extension sit and bear on the woodframed floor? Proposed fireplace sits on its own foundation that goes to basement floor 9 feet below finished floor. If the hearth floor level was to be at finished floor level and not raised, we know we would need to build a cantilevered slab on the fireplace foundation for the hearth extension finish. But with it raised as proposed, does the code permit the extension to be built separate from the fireplace, adjoining the hearth closely, but built atop the floor?

Thanks to both of you. I restarted Windows, and the problem seems to have gone away. I opened Chief, and to be safe, dragged its bottom edge up out of rage of the Windows taskbar.

I can get it to go away but it comes back, and when on screen at my preferred location (across bottom), won't let me do dialog work.

Thanks, Glenn, but I have tried that. The current plan on which this is needed has a foundation in which only part of it has this. So I tried your method on a one-room building, and did not get the result you did. I have the foundation room supplying the floor for the room above, and the "slab at top of stem wall" option checked.

How does one make the slab extend over top of stem walls when doing a stemwall foundation, no basement, slab main floor? I cannot find a setting to make this happen in the model. Do I have to just do a CAD detail to show this? I know it defies energy considerations, but my client the builder always wants the stemwalls poured with tops at height equal to bottom of floor slab, then forms edges to outside of stemwalls, and pours slabs so they sit atop walls. Section pic attached that shows the 2" rigid foam insulation under slab, and outside wall and up slab edge. Framing sits atop.

Without the cats, energy framing specs would call for the Simpson DS drywall stop clip, which Simpson says to use at 16" spacing or less. We have had no drywall issues at all doing cats at 24" centers, and no DS clips.

When an interior wall tees into an exterior wall, Chief X10 frames it with three studs. The efficient way to frame these junctions is with ladder-rung cats at 24" centers, which uses a lot less lumber per tee, and permits better insulation in the exterior wall cavity. We do cats also at exterior corners. Do we have a framing option for this? If not, should we? I go through a job and edit the framing to be as close to the way we'll build as possible, and am weary of editing out the stud clusters and adding in the cats. Quick image here to show the cats method.

The thread got started with me hauling the laptop to the little 1885 library in the village, where there's Wifi. I've no web access here except for the smartphone, so I'll try this. It's new construction, property acquired. The owner owns other properties, and is not overly hands-on. No digging yet, but winter is coming, and a start is imminent. The room that's a gym with pool is the large one with the vaulted ceiling. That adjacent space is a half bath and sauna. I just didn't show the doors. The adjacent spaces in the house are the kitchen at front, dining toward rear. From the dining area one looks two ways through triple panel glass doors: out back in wooded yard, amd into gym/pool room. From garage, one enters a laundry room, then one proceeds through a closet area (this is in a winter sports town) and then into the mudroom area with its outside entry. Even though there will be a staircase down to the unfinished basement (storage and mechanicals only) the architect has been directed to provide a second basement access here in this area of everyday common usage.

Yes, of course it is the architect's job to solve this. He's not very creative, though. Does not work in 3D, uses an old version of ACAD to do condocs. I think there's a wealth of creative talent here and am hoping for a good lead. For more grins from this plan, look at the window in the staircase. I asked how that was supposed to work, got no reply.

Trying to help a builder friend with a project, file attached. Rooms are not labeled yet, but the mudroom should be evident between house and garage. Owner wants to access basement from the mudroom. The plan is not mine, the owner has an architect that drew it exactly as I modeled it, not realizing the stairs he drew won't work. Floor system entire main floor is a combo of 11-7/8 I-joists with 3/4 OSB sheathing, and then a 3" concrete slab that will be ground and polished. Think terrazzo. The large room with the floor pit is a gym with one of those endless exercise swim pools. If you can redraw things to stair-access the basement from that mudroom area, we'd be much obliged. MirrorLake.plan

I've been trying that. Thanks.

And I have searched the web and YouTube in vain. I've a house I want to model for which the main front and rear elevations are curved walls.

For a friend's sister who lives in a new house, needs a lanscape plan and renderings done in order to see her vision, and for getting some quotes. My problem is the project has curved walls and I am totally stumped as to how to manage them. The project area is relatively flat, carved out of a gently sloping hillside with the concave side of the house plan bounding one side, and a concave retaining wall on the other. The gear includes an outdoor kitchen, container swimming pool, dog fence and exercise area, dining, firepit, all that stuff. Two photos attached, plus a screencap of my feeble try with curved walls. No real house design work needed, just enough modeling to be able to do some exterior rendering of the landscape work.

Got a symbol for one?

We like the Simpson screws, SWDC.

Do a search. That same question has been asked, and answered. Edit: The search function apparently does not search the archives of Chieftalk before the recent update. Or whatever. I used Google to search and came up with this. There are more. http://www.chieftalk.com/showthread.php?62715-A-Commercial-Bathroom-Stall-Partition-quot-How-To-quot-using-Railings

Are your customers wanting plans? Meaning, drawings, whether paper or .pdf files? Or do they want something like a file type that plugs into systems they are using?

Thanks to both of you. I'll try both and see, but had gone ahead with molding polylines, one to do the segments up to the door heads, the other above. Repeat copy up in the z direction. The gables are p-line solids.

I want to model a building that is going to house limb-wood fuel for a maple-sugar farm. 1x3 slats will be applied horizontally with 3/4-inch space between, and that is it. No other finish on the framing outside or in. Can this be done in Chief? I have not begun yet, and was wondering how a molding polyline might do, a vertical string of 1x3s in section, to get me up to plate height. I can do p-solids to front the gable ends.

I had done the front piers as elements of a foundation wall. I changed them to slabs and all is well.

I've got piers elsewhere on the plan with no issue. They are under the deck at rear. They are on their own layer, and the ones under the front porch are on their own separate layer. Sayers.plan