GeneDavis

I'll bet you want a timber truss in that porch gable, and to do this, you will need to manually build it with solids of some type. The roof trusses auto-generated by Chief are not what you want.

Right, Joe. A special pattern file or maybe not so special a one, is what I want for vector views. Now, we have patters that give us things like herringbone and hexagons. I am just looking for circles of a certain spacing relative to size.

Joe Carrick showed me the best way to do the texture, but now I need a pattern for the vector views. 1/4" diameter filled circles on 1" centers going both ways, H and V. Pegboard. Any tips or secrets are appreciated.

Thanks, Joe.

I have looked but cannot find.

I would call it "delete pork chop," because the boxed soffit extension from gable wall to rake is called a pork chop in some locales. What is being described here is a deleted one. I've built the condition in Chief using separate adjoining roof planes for the gable overhangs, as Scott describes.

PTP!

Post the plan. Close Chief, zip it, attach to a post. An easier way is to use DropBox. But until we see, we cannot comment or help.

Nice, Joe! What method would you use for the over-windows-and-doors areas?

I have achieved the look of a battered wall (battered = angled out at bottom) using straight walls and custom moldings. Having seen battered walls built, that is pretty much how they are done. A straight wall has structure hung to its outside that boosts the bottom out, tapering to less at top. When the wall must have door and window openings, you need to be really creative. Polyline solids can be used to do the over and under fills.

Zipping and posting as an attachment is so last-century. Get a free DropBox account. With DropBox or a similar cloud-storage arrangement, you can simply copy and paste a link here. No such thing as too-big a file for sharing with us at the Forum.

Are you sending to layout?

Does X6 Interiors do room defs with floor heights? This is an Interiors thread. It must, as the price is up there, and the images at the web page show stairs.

Curved ceiling planes can be joined just like roof planes. Use the join roof planes tool to get your "hips" and "valleys" for these curved sections.

Not so much, Perry. Have used it only for plot plans and roof plans. Will try to set one up for this situation.

I believe that houses with this design feature, meaning a walkout basement with part of the walkout floor walls wood-framed, with frost-wall foundations below, are being built all across the country from I-70 to the Canadian border. Wherever there are basements. Wherever it snows. Wherever there are sloping lots. A lot of wherever. And that is a lot of houses. The Chief software should be able to handle this better. Here are some of the things that ought to be requested in software features to handle this right: 1. "Build stemwall with footing under this wall." These stemwalls, which many of us call frost-walls, should be built on the same level we are using for the rest of that lower walkout level of the house, and it should be Level 0. The spec dialog should allow us to specify a beginning wall depth, and as we can now, we should be able to break and drag up or down the footings and their walls as needed for stepdowns. 2. Separate layer for the stemwalls. Just as we have for footings, we need to be able to turn the stemwalls on and off, depending on what we are sending to layout in construction documents. This is a variant on what Jim suggested above. 3. Main layer or layers only, but show fill. A foundation wall in a walkout basement job or in a non-walkout, may have finish layers on both outside and inside surfaces. The foundation plan drawing should not be showing these finish layers, but it is, for some, a drawing convention that foundation walls shown in the plan drawings have a fill. Now all we have is "main layers only," but that option does not show fills. 4. Extend floor slab atop stem wall. A lot of houses are getting built this way, with the basement slab poured to sit atop the frost wall parts of the foundation, where wood-framed walls sit atop the slab. See the typical detail I attached in an earlier post to this thread. 5. Stop exterior wall sheathing and finish layers at floor level. Chief does this when walls have monoslab foundations under. We ought to get same for the walkout walls that are sitting atop the basement floor slabs. If Chief had these features and options, we would not have to do the workarounds we now do. I am going to copy and paste this post in the Suggestions section, and would appreciate some cheerleading here, so Chief people pick up on the issues.

Here is one problem with the way I did it, in putting the lower walkout floor on Floor 1, and the frostwall foundation under the exposed walls on Floor 0. I am unable to send a "clean" foundation plan to layout. I'll either have to send one like shown and CAD-draw the rest, or come up with another solution. The pic attached is of Floor 1, with a layerset done to shown footings and foundation wall main layer only. This is an ICF job.

Well, I tried Bill Page's technique, and while it got me into a mode in which I can get the 3D model pretty close to reality, I am not happy with the mechanics of things. Here it is in X6, for those that want to look. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/17835038/Jack%20Grouse/Chalet%202800%20walkout.plan I have retired the plan for now, awaiting answers to some questions, and did not step the footings accurately. I don't like having the main (upper) floor not at elevation zero. Something I did in inserting the new foundation level under the old, caused my main floor to go from zero to +46-1/8". I don't like having my foundation on two different floors. The full depth ICF walls are on floor 1 and the frostwalls are on floor 0. David Potter can be excused for his deferring all foundation design to engineers. He is in the TX hill country, and from my experience with the way residential building works there, a combination of shoddy building practices and unstable soils have caused enough foundation failures, such that builders all hire engineers to detail the reinforced slab foundations, and they all get overdesigned. The engineers, all with TX professional registration, are carrying insurance. Use Google and do a web search for "Austin foundation repair" or "San Antonio foundation repair" and the number of business feeding off the result of all that shoddy work will make you understand things.

Here are two details that represent how we will build. Taken together, one can see how the floor slab sits within the foundation when the walls above the slab are ICF, and atop the foundation wall when the wall above the slab is wood-framed. I can model the stepping. Thanks to Bill Page for reminding me to do the lower floor not as Floor 0 Foundation, but to make that floor Floor 1 and do the part-foundation below it (the stepped down frostwalls) in Floor 0. But now that it can be modeled in 3D, sort of, there still exists two problems. 1. How to get a foundation drawing to layout, in that part of it is on Floor 0 and part on Floor 1. 2. How to dismember the floor slab so it places both inside foundation wall and atop foundation wall, where needed.

It ain't Texas, David. Us mere mortals do foundation design in vast parts of the north country.

A walkout basement design in a winter climate is a hybrid affair, isn't it? The front of the house, the uphill side, has a foundation under, while the rear, the walkout side, has its lower exterior walls built atop the basement slab, which is brought to bear upon the frost-wall foundation below. So that basement slab is part inside the walls and part outside. I built a model for a friend that wants to build such a house, and floor 1 is the main or upper floor. The foundation floor under has the out-of-ground exposed walls as wood framed, while the buried walls, in this case, are 11" ICF. What is my best route to getting the frost walls built in Chief, and getting that basement slab modeled accurately?

Two words. Material and region. This has been discussed before. Those reveals should be easy to do.

We get them now, but by "get" I mean we can specify them and when doing so, the material list includes them. No build in 3D, though. If Chief were to build them in 3D for us, what would be the best and most comprehensive way to have all the options? Height for sure. Width as a plus-one-side dimension regarding casing build. IOW, if the total casing build width is 4-1/4", and we specify 1/8" plus for the plinth, the plinth width will be 4.25+0.125+0.125 = 4.5 Chamfered edges and top edges. Round-over edges and top edges. What else?

Or you choose a stone that has a pattern.

Thanks, Glenn. If there was an option one could check for the millwork feature that would put it IN the casing at top center, one could use this. I think I will post this in the Suggestions area.