GeneDavis

I guess I should have asked it this way. For an SIP wall height, do you dimension to the OUTSIDE point, where the wall is shorter, or to the INSIDE point? Forget the other arrow, dimensioning to the roof's "baseline." But then, I suppose the SIP person doing the shop drawings will figure it out no matter how you detail it.

First time dealing with con docs for a job done with SIPs. Structural Insulated Panels. What is the convention, if there is one, for dimensioning to tops of walls? See the attached sketch, which shows a typical wall-roof junction. This particular job will have very minimal eaves, and they will be done with applied sawn timber parts, which will be clad in galvanized steel sheet. But the wall height question. I show two points in the sketch. One at the wall top at its outside face where the roof bears, the other above, at the roof's "baseline" point. I specified walls for this job so that the outside face of the SIP sandwich is the outside of the wall's main layer. There is no framing. No plates. The SIP walls are structural, and the SIP roof panels bear directly atop them. Is this top of wall point where one goes to for the wall height callout or dimension?

Change your material specs for the floor to have the kinds of roughness and reflectivity Jintu advises. Change every single light in this room to NOT cast shadows. Turn OFF all other lights in the project, except for this room. See how it looks then. Lights that cast shadows should be used sparingly.

Try this in X-section. Using the ALL OFF layerset as your base, copy it and rename it something like TRUSS EDITING. Add a new layer, turned on, called CAD - TRUSS EDITING. Now use CAD and draw any guide lines, polylines, curves, whatever you need, to help with editing the truss envelope. Use the lines for force-snapping the truss envelope to suit your needs. I find that with room specs for ceiling heights in flat-ceiling space, and ceiling planes, I can get the truss to build initially almost perfect most times.

Never had this issue, but never found myself unable to edit a truss to do what I wanted. Way back in V10 or maybe X2 there was a bug that prohibited certain radical surgeries, but that got fixed. But I never edited a truss in truss detail. Only live in section. And I always lock envelope afterward. In the image attached, you can see a simple roof thing I did with a dropped vaulted ceiling under. The far truss was drawn and meets the spec for the envelope defined by the roof above and the ceiling planes below. I locked that and copied it to another part of the building where the envelope is different. I also placed a copy of the truss out in space beyond the building. It has always worked for me that a truss, when selected in plan and in spec, checking "lock truss envelope," stays locked and is movable anywhere as any 3D object. I suspect there is something going on with your situation due to your editing in detail, not in plan.

Print to .pdf in color, print to paper from .pdf, in b&w.

Anybody know why my warning posts count is showing? Zero is good, I guess. Are they like speeding tickets? Like, go away after a while, in your record? Can a state trooper get my warning post count by scanning my license plate? I had better just take cabs.

I gotta say, only a 3D purist, and within that class of folk, the even-smaller class of purist, the 3D framing purist, would have a need for a lay-on valley sleeper. Then there are those, rarer still, who want it beveled. In 3D. And textured to look exactly like #2 SPF, or SYP, or whatever. Sadly, no, you won't get this in Chief. But you can dream. Short of that, and way too utilitarian perhaps, for your taste, you can show it in a CAD detail, and call it out on the roof framing plan with a nice dashed CAD line, to show the framing sub what to do. He probably will never look at the drawing. The ones I know wouldn't.

Your cabinets are not sitting on finished floor, but are on subfloor. There's your problem. Use the finished floor check-box for all cabinets. When you make the change, you will have to reset those top-box wallcabs.

Looks like it is 108" clear to me. 109 1/8" rough, less 1/2" ceiling, less 5/8" floor finish. Your DB link is done this way. Going to your ONLINE dropbox, right clicking the file, should give you the "copy public link" option. Do that, and paste the public link to your post here. In a cross section view, use the tape measure or end to end dimensioning to find your shortfall. It may be due to your wallcab spec or your offset or your crown height or anything, but whatever, it is just a number.