GeneDavis

Select the two end walls, at right and left side of building. In ROOF tab of wall dialog, change the pitch to something higher. If it is for example, 3:12, jack it up to 6:12. Autoroof should then generate the roof with a ridge parallel to the front and rear walls. Now play with all these pitches until you get what you want.

Nice workaround, @WoodGrain. I gave your post with the vid a like, and you might want to mark it as the SOLUTION.

I have Scale Images checked and Use Plan View Scale is unchecked. Default has both checked. It is Scale Images that allows the label image to change scale as the column width is shrunk or expanded.

Well, you could draw that little roof, see what happens, right?

Note label size set manually to 5 inches, note text style is what I use for K&B which is 1/2" = 1' I didn't do anything to the note schedule except try to control the circle size by manually shrinking the column width.

What exactly are we talking about here? My interpretation of @Leadcarpo's q is how to separately control display of note callouts in elevation views, from their size in the note schedule. I did a test, cutting an elevation view, placing a note, generating a note schedule, setting control manual in the note's d'box, setting text size to that for 1"=1', setting callout size at 24 inches, and look at what is generating. I can do the box uncheck DB advises, and can change the size of the callout circle in the schedule, but without knowing what the OP wants to do, I cannot advise a solution.

You need more depth for the floor structure, which adds cost in not just floor structure, but labor to build whatever fill and corner work is needed, plus the cost of extra stairs height, more exterior wall sheathing and finish. Explain this to the client and produce good 3D renders of it done with both six and twelve inch tray height, both dropped and not. Further, more stair height means more stair area in the floor plan and reduction of living space.

Welcome to the forum @draftlab! It is essential we know what Chief software you are running (X15, X12, . . . ) and also what hardware you run it on. This, so we can best help you when you have questions such as in this post. Up at top right, click on your name, then go to Settings and scroll down to Signature, and enter all your info.

Am I missing a setting somewhere? I have a gable over which is a 10:12 roof, set gable wall for auto returns 42", 6" extension, want to lower pitch to 5 from the 10 but the returns won't select for spec dialog.

Roof returns are done to eliminate the bad architectural practice of having a pork chop end, and unless you give a return its own return (check "hip"), including frieze wrap, as is done by using the molding, you get a pork chop. Best practice is to do the returns at a lower pitch than the roof above. I had a great pork chop at a steak joint called Perry's the other night. But I don't like to see them on roof corners.

You should go to their forum and ask. This one is for Chief Premier users.

You gotta turn it on. Did you? For any new fixture I am doing, I do a one room tiny house, maybe 10 feet square, and place the fixture in the room, then set a camera view, then do all the work of editing the light source for lumens, position, direction, all the settings for beamspread, etc., if it is a spotlight, and settle things with materials for the shade, reflector, bulb, cord, etc.

Your toilets flush backward. Is there a fix for that?

I like to do a circular or elliptical single camera walkaround of the exterior, same speed and at constant height (look for that setting) so the camera does not dip or rise with terrain. Try it at different speeds to see what works best to view the details. Also, I'll do a flyover view of each floor in dollhouse view, only two or max three drone rides, to display the feel of the moves and relationships from space to space. Finally, I do what Alan describes above at floor levels, single dolly moves, very few camera changes, to exhibit the spaces and features in a walkthru feel, then go to the video editor to string things together with fade ins and outs between the shorts.

Did you explode the dormer? Explode it and turn off autobuild, and get busy editing the top main roof to chop out where the dormer lies, and the dormer roof plane overhangs to extend to the porch roof below.

Solid. We have the wrap option for lintels, but what you are showing seems like a jigsaw cut on a flat board, not a return (wrap). It'll take you a couple minutes. Hey, it's billable hours, right?

Are you wanting a textured clapboard siding material? Surface as seen with James Hardie "Cedarmill" or LP Smartside? If so you'll need a seamless image of lapping boards. Show us how your solution looks.

AFAIK, auto-gen roofs spring from roofs and the roof directives in the wall spec are what make the roof planes. I don't see walls that can used. The upper part of your feature is a dormer, and you can use dormer tools to generate something there to get you started, but I think you'll need to do editing to bring the roof gable overhang down to the lower porch roof.

Simplify it. Outdoor decks with stairs are not drawn using stairwells to chop structure. Draw the deck with the corner chop-out where the stairs go, draw your landing, then connect with the two runs of stairs.

I agree with Rene, but don't understand why those would cause such a slow render. It's slow on mine. What is the workaround? Do the fireplace all in solids?

Is this, to use your term, an elevated gable?

Thanks for the feedback, Joe. Your preference for label on swing side made the lightbulb click ON in my head. I now understand Alan's @Gawdziraterm innies and outies terms. Innie is label inside the swing arc (your term: to the actual swing side) and outie is the side opposite swing. Let's hope we get a change in X17 to make this a setting in defaults so no editing is needed to place offset labels.

So I drew a rectangular house exterior and four interior walls, two vertically, two horizontally. The walls drawn vertically, one drawn from top down, one from bottom up. Same for the horizontal walls, one drawn L to R, the other R to L. And the offset for the interior door labels, one door placed in each of the four walls, was set in the default to be plus 12". The labels all are placed on the right side of the wall. Imagine you are the cursor being placed and dragged to make a wall. You are looking forward during the drag move. Right side of wall is to your right. So that info in the help files about label placement should be clarified. The "object" spoken of for label placement is not the door (or window or slider or passthrough, etc.) but the wall itself, and the right side of a wall is set when it is drawn, click-drag-release. And that label, when placed, stays there if the door is edited for swing or side or both. And the easiest way, this for interior doors only that go into interior walls with same finish layers both sides, the easiest way to flip the label R to L is to select not the door, but the wall, and then click the wall reverse layers button.

Thanks, @DBCooper. Take a look at this snip from the help manual. I don't get it for doors.

On floor level 0, with the reference floor showing floor 1 above, draw foundation walls, the frostwalls ("foundation walls") you want under the bedroom addition walls, where needed. Now go to level 1 and open the addition room and edit its structure appropriately, specifying that this foundation "room" supplies floor for the room above. Edit the absolute elevation of the floor level to what you want. I have presumed your "addition" has a slab floor structure. A section through things at this point might look something like what is shown in the pic, below. Now you gotta figure out what to do at the interface.