GeneDavis

Here is a 2017 Tiffin Allegro for free at the 3D Whse. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/ba1a6135-e0fd-4799-8353-9ec9fcc9b6f0/2018-Tiffin-Allegro-Bus-Class-A-motorhome-RV Resize it after the import keeping aspect ratio and length = 34'3"

Can the client that bought and owns one pay your fee including the cost of the symbol?

Home Designer has its own forum. This is Chief Architect Premier, and most of us are clueless as to how HD works.

Now draw the dormers, and frame it with trusses, and see if the truss designer can make it happen. Those dormers are false, and can either be lick-and-sticked right onto the sheathing, or used for cool light shaft effects, think skylights with windows and roofs. Go on YouTube and watch the framers build these kind of false dormers. Fun to watch. Fun to do.

Plenty of residential designs have this arrangement. A one-story arrangement, flat ceilings in the side wings where beds and baths and laundry and whatnot go, and a tall vaulted ceiling over the open-plan where kitchen dining living entertaining happens. See the section here. The entire roof is bearing on 9 foot walls, and the vault is handled with scissors trusses. For purposes of drawing the roof planes, and generating truss envelopes in the flat-ceiling areas, the 9-foot wall (room) height is proper, but my tiny little issue is in the center bay when drawing the upper windows in the gables. In the pic you can see where the 9/0 elevation intersects all those upper windows, the side traps, and the lowers of the center group. That means the windows have elevation specs for their bottoms and tops relating to a second floor which is not there. Elevations like -11 1/2" at the window bottoms. Is it best practice to draw a second floor and specify the center bay with the ceiling vault as open below? Doing this has no effect on the model, as it is all roofed as needed, and windows are all placed where wanted. Con docs can roll out just fine. Framing elevations will be done to specify how the openings are framed, so windows get installed per the design. But I was thinking, is open below any kind of aid for doing the modeling? To place and size the uppers, I took sections like shown here, used CAD to define the shapes, and placed windows snapping to the CAD, and using measurements from CAD lines to modify the "arch" shapes with tops parallel to ceiling. The windows are right there where they belong, but open one, and the elevations for sill and head look hinky.

Draw a roof just for the patio with its own needed framing spec.

Begin here, learn how to create a two-pitch roof. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01111/creating-a-dickey-roof.html

The pic posted by the OP in post 1 has the three dormers with their shingled front faces all in the same plane, and it looks like the same plane as the wall in which the entry door is under the porch. The dormers poke out from a steeply pitched roof (I drew my mockup as an 11-pitch) and the porch roof is quite shallow, more like a 2/12. Look at the pic closely and you can see the gabled overhangs of the large central dormer resolving down onto that 2/12 porch roof. The spaces inside behind those dormers don't make sense, in the mockup I did, which leads me to think those dormers are purely deco. False dormers. Done all the time. Expensive.

All windows have frames. You want a frame with a negative inset equal to sheathing t + siding t + proud where proud is how far you want frame to project beyond siding. I did a project with Andersen 100 Series windows, like vinyl windows except Andersen extrudes their Fibrex mat'l instead of PVC, and unchecked "frame match wall depth" or whatever it's called. Frames were 1.75 x 3.25, inset -1.875, sash 1.375 x 2.25. Sash inset 1/8". If you are doing simple drywall returns inside Chief gives OK 3D. Not so much if you are gonna wood-trim those windows inside. Check my thread in Suggestions about all this window 3D stuff.

Open the window spec dialog, look at the height and width. Those are the window unit's h x w. Frame h x frame w. You don't specify a window size by it's out to outs on the casings. Go to your dimension defaults for whichever one you want to use to dimension to casings. You'll see where to place your checkmark to have Chief pick up casings when pulling dimensions. Try it and report back.

Manually edit. It'll take less than a minute. Edit the plane at plan left to cover everything the other floor 1 planes do, then delete those other planes

The 24 x 24 grid was requested by the builder and I did a plan view just for that, using CAD for the grid and dimensioning. Whether that tight or something else, you're going to do sawcuts to control the eventual cracking. The placing contractor and the polisher contractor work hand in hand, and for this job, drove 2.5 hours to get to the site. No other options. You'll want to talk to whoever is going to do it. It's not much different than terrazzo work, and where I am in SW FL all that is done inside, fully weathered in. They can those big twin-pad units close to walls and corners, and they finish with hand units. It's a great look, far better than stained 'crete.

Here is a good article about it. https://aicoat.com/polished-concrete-the-complete-guide/ I did the plans for a wood-framed house that got this floor finish on its basement slab and the main (wood framed) floor. Built in cold snow country, with radiant heat pex tubing in both slab on grade and the topping slabs, the polishing work took away only about 1/8" of the top, so I had no concern about specifying more thickness than "normal." It is up to your client, the owner, to view samples and specify the level of cut to achieve the desired look, and the polish (800 grit, 2000 grit, or whatever). The article describes the different looks achieved by depth of cut, and also the level of polish determined by the pad grit. That info is the only thing I would put on plans. The plans included the layout for the sawcut scoring, 24" centers both ways. This happens right away after initial cure, and the cuts are vacuumed clean of dust and debris and immediately filled with an expandible sealant, color matched to the 'crete. This, prior to the grinding and polishing. I left it to the builder to work with his concrete sub for placement and polishing to specify the mix, colorants, aggregate, and any screeding and troweling techniques. For the wood-framed main floor, the pour depth was 3 inches, all the exterior walls, got bottom triple-plated with 2x pressure treated lumber before the pour, the unbuilt interior wall plates (bottom two only) functioning as screeds. What material did you use for your floor texture in the Chief model you show?

Before I try a test model: 2x purlins flatwise on trusses? 2x girts on sidewalls applied flatwise on poles?

I just did an image search for modern San Francisco interiors, and found two pics of open-riser staircases, one with cable railings, the other glass railings. In both cases the treads look over-thick compared to what you see in, say, Miami or New York. Over-thick so the space between is, well, maybe 3-7/8". And the cable railing looked to be that tight, also. So, to code?

Show us wall elevations in each room, no glass house, plain vector views. Patterns and their linked textures get the vertical position in 3D space based on your zero floor elevation. Thus if your countertop height is absolute 36, a multiple of 3 inches, your tile will look OK. But your countertop is likely set to real world build conditions with cabs sitting on floor finish. Like, 36 7/8" or something. Whatever that thickness build, is your correction in the materials dialog for vertical offset. But remember, if you are using that same subway tile elsewhere, where you need a different offset for the tile, you need to make a copy of the material with a new name and its new required offset. I do 3x6 subway in showers and tub enclosures, but 2x4 subway for backsplash over counters, so I don't need to do the new material thing. In the showers, I want the subway to start at the top of the tile-finish finish floor build.

I tested this with the lower wall as brick cladding framed, height 48" off zero floor. If the window has no casing out and is set to 48.000 off floor, the wall is broken in plan view. If the window is set to 48.00001 off floor, the wall is visible. Same behavior with outside casing. If the casing bottom edge is a 48, the wall display breaks. Raise it off by 0.00001 and you get the display. Other than in the pony wall dialog, where is this control dialog for Display In Plan View of Openings in Walls thing?

All 3 dormers appear in the first image, to have their face walls at the house wall location, stacked directly over. Not way out over the porch's railing wall. Are you drawing an as-built of this house? Are you instead wanting to recreate a plan using a stock plan offered at a website? If so, the upper floor plan should show where the dormer walls are.

I won't download your .pdf. Just post it as a picture. Did you break that second floor front wall at the large dormer extents and make it a gable wall in the roof tab? Do that. It'll auto-build at your main roof pitch, probably not the 14/12 of that dormer (looks about like that) but you can edit the planes and rejoin them to the main.

My cabinet source (fronts, drawerboxes, panels, trim) is Walzcraft, Lacrosse, WI, and they have almost unlimited styles. For a flat-panel mission/shaker drawerfront, I prefer to slim the rails from the 2-3/8" I use for door stiles and rails, to 1-1/2". I made a door and drawerfront in solids, with center stiles and saved in my user library, and this is the look I get. Vertical spacing, size, of drawerfront is per Blum System 32 standard. The drawerfront has a 6-1/8" height, a 3/8" margin at top and a 1/8" margin between it and the door. A drawerfront with this style pretty much confines the owner to selecting a knob and not a pull, at least for the drawer.

See my topic on this in suggestions.

1/2-13 is what I would specify.

Thanks, Gary. Porch room did it.

I need a wide flange steel beam over a big feature glass door opening, width of 18'4". A W14x26 will perform nicely, so I specify it with its size in the door spec dialog. Wanting it cleated top and bottom with 2x6s in this 2x6 wall, I specify "box header" (thanks, Chief!) and get what I want to see. But while the steel member comes in when taking a 2D section, Chief seems to be wrapping the beam in timber or something. Here is the spec dialog. And here is the section view. You can see the thin flanges and thin web. Chief has not taken the next step in steel WF beams ("I-beams") to permit specifying flange and web thickness, but we can all live with it as-is. But I-beam is so so antiquated as the term for these members. It's wide-flange, please. Anyhow, the section view. I dimensioned it to proof my spec input. See the "wrap" Chief is doing? Here it is in 3D, and you don't get the surprise real steel inside by using surface delete. So I go, hey, I've modeled real WF sections in Chief before. Yes, but using General Framing, and placing it manually. In a test plan, I placed the same piece of steel. Here it is with the spec dialog shown. And a view in 3D shows it as the real thing. Note about material: these members come in, in my setup, textured as framing, i.e., doug fir graining. Like all the lumber. I painted them gray. I think this is a bug and will report it as such, but wanted to present it here, for discussion.

I can't seem to be able to do that. And why is this needed for such a common need for texture. Stamped 'crete surfaces are done all the time on porches.