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Everything posted by GeneDavis
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Watch the training video "Roof Design Strategies." Very useful info.
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- auto roof
- roof framing
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Move roof up or down a floor is a button icon at bottom dialog box when you've selected a plane or planes.
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Thanks!!
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Dimensioning in wall elevation, right? Have you watched the Chief NKBA training videos?
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Cannot do Chief right now until I can get to a wifi place, but want to know. Basement with lotsa room division now needs to be 103-1/4 height rough floor to rough ceiling, and not 109-1/8 as drawn. And the stemwall height changed, of course. i don't do this often, but can remember there's a right way and a way that gets you into a confusing loop of errors.
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Looking on tips for moving a building relative to the site
GeneDavis replied to Kaemingk's topic in General Q & A
But the problem here is unique to sites with multiple buildings, when one or more but not all need to reposition relative to the scheme. As in, "I now want the workshop building moved 20 feet east and the barn rotated about 15 degrees." Hasn't this been discussed before? Doesn't each building get modeled in its own plan file and then buildings done as symbols to place around on carefully modeled terrain? -
I cannot try because no wifi. Does it work with Google sheets?
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Here is one of many at the 3D Warehouse, and it matches Bilco's specs exactly. I thought I had made one, but it was this. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/2bc7693a5bd3bf71db15b6fb58cfb250/Bilco-Basement-Door-Classic-Series-Steel-Sided?hl=en
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I did one as just another basement room, with door between. Pretty sure the 3D Bilco hatch I made for it in Sketchup is up on the 3D Warehouse. If not there, I'll upload, and include the stairs which were of 2x PT lumber. I toured the finished job Tuesday.
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Using rise times two plus run equals 25, and 6-3/4 rise, then ideal run is 11-1/2, which is OK for big spacious houses and budgets for special order treads at widths not stocked, but my ideal is 7-1/4 to 7-5/8 rise.
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How 'bout a CAD patch on whichever elevations have this condtion? Fast, easy, onto the next project. If it must be 3D, a p'solid's as fast as the CAD patch. Or use a material region. I find there's a limit to these kind of things. When you compare what gets built to what you drew, the answer is "we always do it that way." And you wonder why you bothered.
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Easy thickened slab footings that count in material list
GeneDavis replied to GeneDavis's topic in General Q & A
That's better. Thanks. I can use the 4" slabs placed under the 4" floor slab, ID'd as FOUNDATION in the Components dialog. Itemized nicely in the material list, and easier and more flexible than using walls, for this particular plan. -
Easy thickened slab footings that count in material list
GeneDavis replied to GeneDavis's topic in General Q & A
I know that tool and can use it, but wish it had more options. If I've a 4" wall with a 16" pad under, I want it to go another 4", which requires a short invisible wall. i just wish Chief would add an option to the slabs and solids spec that would let the volumes tally in the concrete foundation counts. I'll make a suggestion in that subforum. -
Easy thickened slab footings that count in material list
GeneDavis replied to GeneDavis's topic in General Q & A
Which is where, please? -
Where the basement slab has bearing loads, posts or walls, we thicken the slab appropriately, and typically use CAD and text on the foundation plan to show where and what. It can be modeled in 3D by making and placing slabs and or solids where needed. What do you do if you want it all included in the concrete count in the material list? I'd like NOT to do walls with footings and posts with footings.
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Antics with semantics. What Chief is calling "panel frame" is a stile if it's vertical, a rail if horizontal, and a panel if it is the entire assembly of stiles, rails, panels, and if glass, "lites." And if it's window talk, there are sash, the movable or fixed segments all surrounded by the frame. Doors have fixed and moveable panels within their frames, but for windows those subassemblies are sash. And you can bet that elsewhere if English is spoken, the terms are all different.
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So Chief hiccups, and we need to do a dive into the darkness, and heaven forbid, drag a wall? I thought that for as common a wall and roof condition as this, Chief would step in with the automatic. The automatic!
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How to get house parallel to side property line
GeneDavis replied to Stevenplane's topic in General Q & A
Select the N arrow to open the dialog box, and specify its angle. -
I just recently installed the free app Greenshot, after having a problem with Techsmith's Jing which I had been using for years. No .pdfs though. This is an image in .png format. I am just getting into it, but text must be in boxes to be added, which I was used to from Jing. I like the obfuscate tool, which I used here to show you. Also attached is a .png of a .pdf layout page I did using Greenshot .png clips taken from a Sketchup file, to convey truss envelopes to the truss engineer for a job being started now. They imported into Chief nicely and resized just as I wanted them.
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How to get house parallel to side property line
GeneDavis replied to Stevenplane's topic in General Q & A
You are doing it wrong. Your PLAN is done upright, meaning no angled walls. You don't first do it XY upright and then rotate it. You place and rotate your terrain perimeter (building lot) the way you want it, with whatever setbacks drawn, the plot moved into place and rotated correctly to get the parallelism you need. In the image attached, the plan is "upright," no walls angled. It is the plot that has the angles. -
CAD detail does it for me. I like for the foundation plan and whatever sections and details are pertinent to be on their own set of pages. The foundation sub gets only that page or pages.
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The studs for that top wall simply sister alongside the truss ends, and whatever top plating, single or double, goes atop. So in fact it is a wall conjoined with the truss ends, and one of the images above, I forget which, depicts it perfectly. Who would want to build a wall atop the deck with studs only a few inches long. But I used to frame, so what do I know?
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How do you do a third floor atop a roof.
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A lot of pics of a Deck House at this site, which shows how one almost exactly like ours got a nice renovation. It is in NC. https://www.freshpalace.com/2013/01/02/deck-house-renovation-in-chapel-hill-north-carolina A couple pics from the site attached here. Ours differed from the one shown in the EXISTING photo in that it had an additional bay on the far end that was a 3/4 depth screened porch. The view of the front shows the split-entry staircase inside, all original. The mahogany door is original because it matches what we had way back then. Do a search for Lock-Deck and you will find various dealers out in the Pacific NW that sell the tongue and groove product used to build structures like this. The planks are king sized versions of t&g flooring, in that the product comes random length (6' minimum) and is t&g on ends. Any room you are in, upstairs or down, you look up and you are seeing the beams and the decking. To build this in Chief, I would specify my floor and roof structures as having zero framing, and model the beams all with solids. No ceilings. Pretty simple, actually.
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And then there is manual roof building. And editing. And figuring out how to do curved roofs. And crickets. Rafter tails. Shadowboards. And the interior side of things. Pitched ceilings. Curved ceiling planes to form groin vaults. So much to learn.