GeneDavis

But I still gotta ask. Why is hidden so important? Here is a sample from Chief of a plan, and note how the shed dormers are treated. Any builder can understand it.

In the example given by the OP, all the walls are shown as single dashed lines, no matter what level (0, 1, . . . ), and if we want to get that we need to do CAD work. Those wall lines are an important element. Doing those roof planes with solid fill and controlling order of draw is done, then the entire group of CAD lines representing the building lines, i.e., the outer face of the main layer, is given FRONT status in order of draw. Creating the CAD goes quickly.

Give us an example of what you want to see on your construction docs. Roofs shown in plan view in Chief are not rendered as solids. Their bounds are shown, so a lower roof under one higher does not have "hidden" parts not shown. Are all your roofs showing on one plan level, i.e., 0, 1, 2, . . . ? That is a start. We need to see what you want to do, to be able to suggest solution.

When you are done, give us a shot from inside! This one is done all with trusses.

Have you learned to use the ceiling plane tool? You're gonna need it.

This feature wall which looks out at a million dollar mountain view, is 24' wide x 25' tall at its peak. If you have done one this size with ordinary 2x framing, kudos to you and the framer. I think steel is needed. How do you do the steel elements in such a wall with Chief? And isn't the Chief Architect sample plan "Bachelor" done with steel in a couple glass walls like this, but I downloaded the plan and cannot see the steel.

Stairs go up to a gallery/loft, and where they end at top, with 44-1/2" width, the wall adjacent the woman figure is 6'1" at the wall, and the OH is 7'0" at the middle of the stair run. What does code say about this? This isn't gonna get built where they will say anything about it, but I want to know how a well-versed plans reviewer or inspector would treat it.

I don't see this option for barn doors. Suggestion time?

I don't see that option. Is there a workaround?

Thanks, Eric. I knew there was a way, as I have done it before. Needed a reminder: tudor, no radius.

Dogear arch isn't doing it for me. All I can get is a 45 side when I need one steeper. The image is what I want.

Most windows get cased (trimmed) to cladding (unit edge at perimeter) at exterior and over-with-reveal on inside. This means if heights of windows are tweaked so door head trim height matches that of windows, you cannot do it for both in and out. Check it out. Casing (at head) for an exterior wood-framed door is about 1/2" LOWER outside than inside, while for a clad window it's opposite. Exterior is HIGHER out versus in. Chief models casings with better realism for doors than it does for windows, for me at least, because all my jobs use clad windows.

The R.O. opening height for an 8/0 exterior door is 99" plus or minus. A header with a plate under it thus can be no taller than 5-1/2", for 109" walls. Until a new update happens and gives us more framing options, one will have to do manual editing to get headers tight to top with plate under.

It will take time, but the tilted elements can all be modeled as solids. For just those parts, I'd be inclined to model in Sketchup and import. CDs will be tedious. Charge a fortune.

So for window height to align to door height, your doors are not a standard 6/8, or 8/0? And your wall height is 109 not 109-1/8? Most places sell 9' precut studs that produce the 109.125 wall height, and that's what you see in Chief's OOB template.

83 3/8" is the RO height when a 2x10 header with plate under is tight to the top, when 97 1/8" is wall height. I'm not able to access my X12 today but how does Chief autoframe it when the 2x10 header and 82 7/8" window height and 1/2" top clearance is specified? Should be a quick edit, but you'll do it for each opening in wall detail, then for each opening in section to get the inside ply tight to the outside ply. Tedious, but straightforward editing. I do it on every job.

Don't trust the dbx image. Show us both after framing.

Material regions.

Tell you what. Paypal me $500 and we'll zoom for an hour and you'll be all set.

This can't be real. You created the 3D model, the house, with the interior you show on the picture, all of which would require you to study and train with the software, extensively if I might say, and you cannot understand layers, layersets, default sets, and saved plan views? in plan view for floor 1, open it using the various out-of-box SPVs, and for each one, carefully examine the active layersets and all the defaults. You'll learn something.

Watch some videos on default sets, layersets, and saved plan views. It's all there for you.

I want countertop at 36 above finished floor, so I specify FF for cabinet bottoms. Most of my work is for a guy that does all basecabs sitting on adjustable legs, with snap-on toeboards. In your case, if you know for sure what can and will be ordered, design and specify accordingly. If you don't, set the cabs at FF height.

+100 for Perry's circa 1988 solution. Meet with them in person, show them plans, discuss whatever next steps are needed, roll them up, end of meeting. Client gets no copies of the plan.

"We are struggling with clients taking plans drawn to scale to “other” builders for quotes. There’s just too much info in CA that defeats our purpose. I would like to be able to present concept plans that makes it impossible for another builder to quote from. From a sales and marketing approach , give them less tech info and focus on the conceptual." First of all, you need to be getting paid, and up front, to produce this work. You will never ever find a way to stop such clients from taking your work product to the type of builder who says, "hey, all's ah need is a pitcher, and we can build what you want." Me, I wouldn't give them plans, but instead would give them 3D walkthroughs, and without any good overviews of the house a builder could use. Many people don't get into the weeds of a house design, but instead fixate on one or two things they saw somewhere that they want in their own house. Show them only those one or two things and showcase them well. Take a look at this one from Chief, and ff to 12:17 mark to see the show. If you don't want to have to get up to speed on walkthrough techniques, consider screencap pics of perspective floor overviews, maybe one perspective full overview as if shot from a drone out at the street looking at the house from 40 feet up, and just a few raytraced interior shots of the spaces most meaningful to the client. In other words, tempt them using 3D, give them nothing in 2D, no plans, no elevations, nothing a resourceful builder could use to rip off your design and cut you out. Also, make it clear with watermarks or annotation on whatever you present that your design is copyrighted. If you find someone end-running you, look at the for-permit plans on file at the building department they used to build. If your plan was copied, threaten to sue, and copy the building department and the builder. I've seen building departments so notified refuse to issue a C.O. unless shown evidence of settlement.

Why don't you give us some specifics? Framing lumber? Chief's not your engineer. You must size all those beams and posts, and place them in the plan. Fireblocking, backing for all the conditions where you need it, you'll model it all in. Hangers? You gotta choose and spec it all, and Chief won't count it for you. Roofing? Chief will get a lot of things right, but don't expect it to tally starter shingles, ridge venting, step flashing, kickouts, ice/water membrane, boots and other specialties for penetrations, and nails or staples. If your standards for framing, roofing, insulation, trim, staircase work, and many more elements remain fairly fixed for project after project, you will be able to tweak your template to give good results. But if you build from plans and specs by others, each job unique, expect a long setup process each time.