GeneDavis

And here is a pic of a basecab like what I think you might be doing. Common height top drawer, two large lowers. Look at the "Item heights" in the fronts spec dialog. Chief calls the item "drawer" but it is really the drawer opening. See how they differ? They differ so that the drawerhead heights match. That bottom overlay is 5/16" more than the drawerhead above.

The overlays are not the same, and for the to drawerfronts to be same height, the openings need to be adjusted. The lower drawerhead covers the entire bottom "separation" while the one above is covering less than half of its lower "separation." i use CAD to draw a partial section view of the cabinet, placing all the fronts in their stack, which then resolves where those intermediate separations go, and thus gives you the openings. Attached is an example of my use of CAD to determine cabinet specs. Shown are two sections of basecab drawer stacks. One a three-equal-over-one-large-bottom, the other a top-drawer-two-under-equal-size. The work was done for frameless, but the logic would be same for faceframed. I'm always doing a 3/8" reveal at top, 1/8" betweens, and full cover no reveal at bottom. My work shows the d'boxes and the small boxes are for determining where the drawerslide mounting holes go. I use Chief to precisely draw kitchens and baths, and then use a separate app for working up the cab batches for CNC cutting of all parts. I show an image from that app, eCabinets, a side view of a basecab, three drawer stack, top drawer over two large lowers, both equal head heights. My cab box is 30-3/4" high (stands on 4" adjustable legs, not shown), the top drawerfront is 6-1/8", the two below both 12".

Who is the buyer?

Check the main layer in the exterior wall type definition, and observe whether it is 16 or 24. If it is 16, then reframe. If it is 24, edit it to be what you want, then reframe. If it is 16 and reframes at 24, save the job and close Chief, go to the file in your directory, zip it, and post the file here in your next post. And before doing that next post, go to your profile and complete a signature so we know what version of Chief you use, and the hardware upon which you run it.

Not exactly. I have dozens of CAD details in dozens of completed project plans, and would like to bring all or most of these into a file I'll build as a new template. I have been opening the CAD details, then copying and pasting into new CAD details in this new file. I was wondering if there was a way to click and drag or drop.

I leave terrain off in the layerset, and CAD for the terrain, the polyline (all white lines) has a transparent solid fill with light gray color, the top line of the p'line has a CAD line overlay at a line weight that makes sense. You can get fancy and do a 45 deg. line fill in that p'line to give the foundation a dashed line look, but I was lazy on this one. The reason I turn off the terrain (different from what Eric suggests above) is that often there is too much going on and one gets multiple lines. This simple approach works for me.

There have been discussions of the SAVE AS method, and the TEMPLATE method for organizing work, and I've been terrible about organization and efficiency, and do neither. I want to get better. Isn't good TEMPLATE practice the same as SAVE AS, if the template has all the settings, defaults, SPVs, etc., as a good SAVE AS? I've a bunch of good CAD details that are in plan files, and want a recommendation for how to bring them into a file to be used as a template. What is best?

You can model the whole space at the height of the tallest ceiling, which makes window placement a little more straightforward, then use ceiling planes, both flat and pitched, to create the overhead you need.

What's your software?

@KirillPthe example light you show is LED tape with a shroud, spacing not specified, and should be modeled as point lights with an appropriate extruded shroud.

Where was the idea of the dead-straight no-sag rope light, no housing, sourced? The images show it positioned for general lighting along the two passage and work lanes, but that seems like the wrong approach for such lighting. I see it and use it in recessed ceiling coves, atop wall cabinets, for undercab countertop lighting, and inside cabinets that have glass doors. Have you any photos of rope lighting used in the way you have modeled it?

What software are you using?

This roof has a 3:12 pitch and a triple-step fascia, but as can be seen in the structure settings, the gable and eave subfascia settings are different to be able to achieve fascia line matching.

If the desired starter newel is big enough, do it as a standalone symbol, with the stair rail buried inside

Five replies so far, the words "something" and "maybe" are thrown out. I'm reminded of the old NPR Saturday morning show, "Car Talk," the brothers Click and Clack, some guy calls in and says there's a funny scraping sound under the rear seat of my '65 Camaro. They have fun with it and then start asking questions, trying to pry out the clues from the caller. We aren't on a live call here. Just post the plan and let's end this. At 84 posts, the OP ought to know the drill.

The OP is copying a plan. Not getting inspired by it and deviating per his or her design sense, but copying one. The only diff is that it's mirrored from what was shown. I'd want whatever floor 2 living space is there, to be there ahead of roof generation, as a way to determine with knee wall heights, what would be needed for baseline elevations.

Self-train via videos, please. Or get an hour of 1 on 1. Hey! Before you do that, download and study some of the sample plans and layouts from the Chief wbsite.

Others might differ, but i'd never do a roofscape without first drawing all the floor plans including windows, doors, and stairs.

If you are replicating the plan you show in images, did you spec all your perimeter wall roof directives per the roof plan you in the photo? If not, why not? I'd have started there and auto-roofed the plan. And there is this, from Mick, a Chiefer here, posted on another thread about modeling roofs: Remember that the KnowledgeBase (KB) has many good Short Tutorials ( with downloadable PDFs) and there are also Free Videos etc to help with all the basics. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00441/creating-hip-and-gable-roofs-manually.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/5447/roof-basics.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/6110/roof-options-using-the-manual-and-automatic-roof-tools-grandview-build.html

Try making a wall type same layers except no siding, which will be your wall tupe for "lower wall type if split . . ."

Close the Chief plan. Post the .plan file here. A .pdf file can be directly attached to a post, and we don't have to download it to view it.

A tambour door would have the cassette on one side or the other. I'd be inclined to make a symbol with solids to do that, set onto a passthrough window.

I've framed houses and site-built the staircases that went in them. Our technique resulted in the exact 3D look Chief returns when butting Chief stairs to the 1/2 sheetrock wall finish. So place stairs against finish, and not against framing.

Walls are "drawn" using the mouse and Chief configs those walls (see all the types in the dropdown) based on how you have defined the default walls. Out of the box, Chief "builds" the interior walls as three layers, the main layer is 2x4 wood frame, the layers out and in are 1/2" gypsum drywall. Exterior walls out of the box are 2x6 framing in main layer, with 1/2 sheetrock in and out is OSB then siding. You can create any types of walls you want, including exterior with framing and rainscreen layers, and more. I'd advise spending a half day or more watching some of the excellent Chief training videos easily found on YouTube, or best found right at the User Center in the Chief website. Click that chiefarchitect.com link at upper right and you will go there. Maybe even a day and a half. Or a week and a half. There is a lot to learn. If you want to leapfrog all this, consider getting some one on one training either with Chief or one of the power users here like the excellent Rene Rabbitt.

Not sure what you want to do with posts, but for stairs, I like to draw them in a totally open space near where I want to place them, and after making adjustments for rise, run, width, as may be required, then move them using point to point. For ensuring that object like stairs bump and stop at walls (and they stop at the wall finish, in your case against your 1/2" material affixed to framing) be sure to set bumping using EDIT > SNAP SETTINGS > BUMPING/PUSHING to toggle the bump/push stop behavior. Try it OFF, toggle it ON, and see how things work for stairs and other objects. F11 is your shortcut key for this toggle.