GeneDavis

Those legs and struts look like about 1" square in profile. Try creating a 1 x 1 post saved to your user library as millwork and then selecting it as legs for your base cabinet. Set the toekick height at something like 16". Then use slabs and solids to do the strut surround at the base, and up under the cab. The slab is your bottom shelf. Doing the button feet below the metal frame legs and struts takes more creativity. Make another post leg as a solid, do it at 1 x 1 and make it 15 1/2" tall. Make a 1/2" dia. round button 1/2" tall solid placed centered under the square leg, tight to its bottom, then join the two as one solid. Convert to a symbol and add a stretch plane maybe 8" up from bottom. Now use your symbol as your cabinet legs. The attached pic shows a start. To add the strut array near the floor, and under the cabinet, use solids or slabs. Make the shelf using a slab. If your legs and struts don't seem to look right, adjust size up or down. For the legs, you'll need to start over, since you cannot edit the symbol's profile. That thick cast top with the integral sinks will be a challenge. You might try modifying an undermount sink symbol's bounding box so it places the sink with its top surface (the surround flange) co-planar with the countertop, and then make the material for the two, c'top and sink, the same.

Chief can do only one terrain in a plan. Do two plans one with current topo one with new.

Shame there's no setting in framing defaults. There oughta be, and leave the user the option to do it at the wall if wanted.

Please let us know what you work with by completing a signature in your user profile, that includes your Chief version, other relevant software, and the hardware upon which you run it. Then tell us what you mean by post frame and it is best to include both your plan files and images of what you are after. Chief won't autoframe a timberframe structure, if you want that kind of "streamlining," but you can model structure in 3D with the available tools, as I am sure you know.

Sounds like panelized, not modular. Since you're editing all those framing elevations to show blocking (and more), it's just a click and drag to get the plate-thru-door thing. Chief will autoframe it if you do the door-raise-and-shorten thing, but that has its downsides. Editing the plate is fast and easy. But hey, if you think Chief should have an option in autoframe for this, make the suggestion.

I gotta ask @plannedRITE. What's the point of this? If it's for material list accuracy, don't the extra cut lengths added by pro users to cover culls and the full-plate under doors cover this? Sure, we frame the walls this way and then cut after, but why exactly show this in elevations? A good framer puts in blocking for cabinets, fixtures like towel and toilet paper holders, and more places. Are you detailing this all out in your framing details, so the material list gets counts for blocking?

Look again at the pic in Eric's post. It shows the reporting as "Mixed," meaning it is giving unit counts for framing reporting in specific lengths, and footage for the others. It is showing in the table, for a line item reported as in feet ("ft"), and with the unit price per foot shown, the line reports total cost or ft x $ = $$. Sounds like you want to run the material list in linear length format, not one of the other three choices.

Like this? I changed the ceiling height for the loft and the open below rooms of the second floor to 12', went to the attic level (no rooms, just walls), edit>cut the three windows in that gable attic wall, went to floor 2, and paste>hold positioned the windows. Then went to the attic level and deleted the attic wall, which was not needed. Then I moved the window labels of the lower windows under those stacked, so both labels are seen in plan. You can also go into the window spec for each and offset the label, but I find dragging in planview easier.

You're using auto-framing to provide wall framing details, no editing?

Why not just hide the gaps with solids? IMHO, it would look better than the returns. Does the porch have a flat ceiling or are you planking the rafters to vault it? Because if vaulted, consider not boxing the soffit, and doing same planked finish on the rafter tails, so you can lose the pork chops out front.

Here's a plan I just did for a 24x24 garage with mono foundation, one OH door, one window, one man-door. Size of file is 3.8Mb, would take one click to upload to a post, no zip required. What is so hard about attaching a file? Is the template all loaded up like a Rene Rabbit one and worth big bucks? Copyrighted?

I did some noodling around on various sites where R is discussed, and found lots of moaning and gnashing of teeth. Having learned my lessons from what might seem like bugs, I've come to the practice of not changing wall layer elements for placed walls, but always making new wall types.

Manually with solids if you want the pedestals and gapped pavers. Which software has tools for this done with fewer clicks and drags and keyboard input?

My suggestion upthread is hereby amended. I'd forgotten that you can simply uncheck "ridge" in the framing dialog for roof planes, and that when you draw the ridge as a roof beam after framing the rafters it is properly located under them. If you want a beveled top on that beam, sawn and not a seat piece stacked, and you want to see it in 3D, you'll do the beam as a solid. Or you can jack it up with a move, and annotate with a detail that the top end of the rafters all get a small birdsmouth.

@Designers_InkI don't see a plan file in that dropbox link.

Thicken the slab edges to 24" total depth. The edge footing will have a 20" height if your slab spec is 4" thickness. I put a 20 x 20 bevel on the inside faces, for a 24" haunch. Sort of like what is attached? This one's a 16, so the x by y on the haunch is 12 x 12.

I selected the three planes, used the trans/rep tool to raise them 24", and all three still have identical top of plate values. See attached.

I have your plan and see your three roof planes at the porch, all of which have identical pitches, baseline heights, overhangs, and fascia tops. The walls are railings with the elevation common at the top of the 4x12 top rail, that elevation being 144". Are you talking about an issue with this plan?

@Jambruins I don't understand your question, as presented in the opening post. Here's what you said: "I have always manually modified the middle portion of the house to get the gable roof but is there a way use auto roofs to do it?" I downloaded your plan file and went to all the walls that manage the roof build, changed roof settings to be as they should, added room divider walls in two places, broke the two long walls where needed to define the front and rear gables, then turned off auto roof build, deleted your roof, and turned auto roof build back on. You can see in the image what I got. Is that what you wanted to do? Scott Harris's trick of jacking up the room height for the center cross gable spaces, he moved the room height up 1/8", is what it takes for there to be enough of a break at the valley points to get the center cross gable at a 12-pitch. I'd like for @scottharris to give us an explanation of what is behind that trick to make it work. Steve is not really showing you how to do it automatically, but is showing you how to manually use the gable roof line tool to modify the auto-gen roof your plan delivered using your settings. And it would be also beneficial if Steve @SNestor to show us his method for getting this roof to auto-gen with the main gables at 5:12 and the center cross at 12:12.

If it happens to me, I'll switch. From rye whiskey to scotch.

You might try a 1/16" square ridge and edit it's material to air gap, then manually add the structural one.

How is tile dealt with when it is done with material regions?

How do you create folders in your library to organize all these 40 or 400 CAD details?

And here is a pic of a basecab like what I think you might be doing. Common height top drawer, two large lowers. Look at the "Item heights" in the fronts spec dialog. Chief calls the item "drawer" but it is really the drawer opening. See how they differ? They differ so that the drawerhead heights match. That bottom overlay is 5/16" more than the drawerhead above.

The overlays are not the same, and for the to drawerfronts to be same height, the openings need to be adjusted. The lower drawerhead covers the entire bottom "separation" while the one above is covering less than half of its lower "separation." i use CAD to draw a partial section view of the cabinet, placing all the fronts in their stack, which then resolves where those intermediate separations go, and thus gives you the openings. Attached is an example of my use of CAD to determine cabinet specs. Shown are two sections of basecab drawer stacks. One a three-equal-over-one-large-bottom, the other a top-drawer-two-under-equal-size. The work was done for frameless, but the logic would be same for faceframed. I'm always doing a 3/8" reveal at top, 1/8" betweens, and full cover no reveal at bottom. My work shows the d'boxes and the small boxes are for determining where the drawerslide mounting holes go. I use Chief to precisely draw kitchens and baths, and then use a separate app for working up the cab batches for CNC cutting of all parts. I show an image from that app, eCabinets, a side view of a basecab, three drawer stack, top drawer over two large lowers, both equal head heights. My cab box is 30-3/4" high (stands on 4" adjustable legs, not shown), the top drawerfront is 6-1/8", the two below both 12".