Chopsaw

The size of the callout is determined by the text size that the Text Style is using for the Cameras layer. You can also adjust the callout size manually in the camera DBX but that does not set the text size so it is usually best to leave that set to "Automatic".

Sure but the purpose of a roof is usually to keep the rain out right ? Actually it won't quite do it unless I missed a setting but not a very good idea no matter where you live unless I got it all wrong ?

You can override the snap grid or set it to whatever you need in General plan defaults. But if that is too much of a bother you can open up the DBX and set the length manually.

Yes absolutely. There are two types of Blocks that you can look up in the Help file or manual that will help you out using the software. Architectural vs CAD Blocks Just as there are two types of objects in Chief Architect, architectural and CAD, there are two types of blocks. See Architectural vs CAD Objects. Architectural objects such as cabinets and fixtures can be included in architectural blocks, while CAD objects such as lines, arcs, text and dimensions can be included in CAD blocks. See CAD Blocks. Knowing the differences between these two types of blocks helps you decide which type of block can best meet your needs. A CAD block can include and also be nested in a larger block with CAD objects, text and dimensions, but cannot include or be blocked with architectural objects. An architectural block can include and also be nested in a larger block with architectural objects, but cannot include or be blocked with CAD objects, text or dimensions. Chief Architect, Inc, 2021

That does not look much like what you would typically see on a survey. I think this is pretty standard in most of North America.

I sent you a PM. See notification at top right.

So does that mean you want to mess with some unreliable free data or would it be much more worthwhile to rent or borrow a builders level and a measuring stick and take some of your own measurements that can be accurate to within an inch or two rather than be off by a couple of yards potentially ? You just need to establish a benchmark and assign an elevation to it.... either 0 or some people use 100' so most measurements are positive numbers and then plot out a grid and measure the elevation at the intersecting points as well as any fixed objects and high and low points. Or pay a surveyor who has a total station to do it if you want really good accuracy.

Yes it can be done that way but available data is not particularly accurate. It can give you a general idea for a preliminary concept but going beyond that is not a good idea with the currently available public data sources. Also unless it is a fairly lucrative large scale project the time required does not make sense financially. If you still want to give it a try I can help you out with some hotlinks and custom software.

You may have a room definition issue. If you can't sort that out you may be able to make it work with absolute elevations.

Actually you need to select "DOWNLOAD" as I stated before since X10 - X13 are now using the same Product Key. Then you can choose the individual version to download if it is listed.

Not if everything you have said is true and can be verified.

Ok now I understand. Technically Chief loads the digital locker but if you never owned X12 it likely will not be there. I would give Sales a quick call and offer them a trade in. I think they should be able to work something out with you.

Yes once you click "DOWNLOAD" it should show as available if you own it.

Sometimes.

I looks as though you have made good progress with the grading but are having issues with just one area. The most common problem people have with chief terrain is conflicting terrain data and placing things too closely together. You really only need data for the top and bottom elevations if you are creating a consistent slope so unless you need to add extra data for a smooth transition you likely have too much data and if you are "filling" you need to remove or edit the original elevations. Hope that helps.

There is a setting in the Wall Specifications DBX under Structure that may work if you figure out which end of the wall you are working with. "Thorugh Wall At Start or End" listed under Wall Intersections. To figure out the start or end turn on "Show Start and End Indicators" in the Edit section of Preferences.

This is natively possible in X13. It can also be done in previous versions by opening two instances of the program, although this is not recommended and must be done carefully at your own risk remembering not to alter the reference file. You can certainly include as much as you want in a template but the issues is how much is too much and do you want to add what you need or delete everything you do not need.

Looks like that would have been drawn in plan view so you need to convert it to a solid and use boolean operations.

Yes I believe that is true. Dimensions defaults do not change what an existing dimensions will locate but if you set the correct default a new dimension should follow the new default.

Putting doors and windows into polyline solid walls will not be fun. Your best bet is to use walls where ever it is possible using custom wall types and "Allowed Additional Angles". If you run into something a wall simply will not do then add a small patch with a p-solid to a chief wall. Otherwise you will be on a rather steep learning curve with bolean operations and symbols that really do not take advantage of the way the software was meant to be used.

Unless someone posts that all of the futzing is not necessary you may want to take a minute to send in your completed plan file and explain what you needed to do to make it all work. Perhaps they could allow the "No Corner Post" setting for doors to make it just a little easier in X14. With a note that pops up.... " Please Consult your Structural Engineer "

I turned off Casing, Sill/Threshold, Lintel, Jamb... Just the Door. In my posted example I was able to place it beside the Pass Through but you could temporarily reduce the Pass Through if necessary. Then just drag it overtop in 3D and tweak the precision in plan view. Not completely sure if the two doors can close at the corner the way the software is currently working but Nana likely has a special 90° adapter for that anyway. You could add a symbol for that and turn it on when the door is closed and off when it is open.

I think this replaces steps 3-6. Then turn off everything but the door for the NanaWall Cero and insert it beside the Pass Through then drag it into position.

It is a thing. It just needs to be done correctly. And it gets expensive in a hurry.

Place your Nana Wall door into a Pass Through opening and make sure there is something really stiff to hold the roof up.