Joe_Carrick

You can manually place Floor Beams & Posts. It's part of the "Build Framing Tools".

I use Transform/Replicate to copy walls at a specified distance. This is 100% accurate and a lot less hassle.

Maybe you should ask for one of his Chief Files for a similar sized house Trade like for like? I would bet he'd say "no way!"

Yep, Stretch Planes at x=0 and at z=48" would be appropriate. No Stretch Zones.

Tell your Father-in-Law that the builder is just trying to get a free design to add to his own library of designs. If your Father-in-Law wants to have this builder "redraw" the plan then just say "bye" to the project. This builder doesn't want to bid competitively and is trying to get an exclusive deal. That's not in the homeowner's best interest either. Oh, Perry might be right about the "In-Law" thing. You should talk to your wife about it - but if she's not going to back you up...............

Do you know who this builder is? Does he use Chief Architect? If so, what version? If you are using a newer version than the builder he wouldn't be able to open your file anyway. What is his reason for wanting your Chief File?

Best Answer is Post #2

Try sending an elevation to layout and then rotate the layout box. Good Luck

Robert, AFAIK, you can't rotate the Layout Box. You can rotate the Label but not the box itself.

Todd, Create a CAD Detail from View of your Elevation. That can be rotated and sent to Layout.

In reality, the time it takes to draw walls in the approximate location and then adjust their position using the temp dimensions is faster. You just have to get used to the procedure. It takes a little bit of practice but you will get faster. Then when you look at all the other things Chief does and how you can build up your standards, you'll be amazed at just how quick you can complete a project.

Ray, That request has been made via suggestions to CA directly more than once

Scott, My point really is just that Chief should have separate materials for everything. Stair Stringers shouldn't have to be the same as Risers.or the same as the Skirtboard. In my house the Stair Stringers are actually concealed within a drywall soffit but they are just unfinished wood framing, Th Risers are Travertine Tile and the Base Skirt is White and the Treads are Dark Brown.

Scott, Scott, Scott, Why should the Fascia, Rafters & Soffit materials be intertwined? Why can't they all be separate materials? This is the same sort of thinking that caused us to have the same material for Toe Kicks and the Base Cabinet. Finally X7 gives us a separate material for the Toe Kick. Stairs, Doors & Windows have similar problems with materials not being separated. Can you imagine your wife putting up with being forced to wear the same color lipstick as the color of her purse? Maybe this whole material coordination bit is just an Idaho thing

There is really no requirement that you use Exterior Walls. The only requirement is that the Rooms be contained within walls. So let's assume that you just need a Kitchen, Nook and Dining Room. YOu draw the outline of these rooms using Interior and Exterior Walls as needed. This is then your "Building". In the Dimension Defaults you set Temp Dimensions to Locate Wall Surfaces. This allows the Walls to be accurately located by entering the measured distance between the walls vs the "Main" layers.

Nicole, You should be able to get a Loaded ASUS 17" Laptop and a Targus carrying case for about $1800.00 or even less.

The ASUS 17" G74 series works very nicely. It's not a light machine but it works really well.

I've changed my procedure for Floor Finishes. My Default is no Finish Floor. Then I add Floor Material Regions in each room. They are on Layer "Material Regions" so I can have "Floor Surfaces" displayed (the Slab Floor Structure). I like this procedure for my Floors because I can create much more flexible finish flooring layouts. My Entire Structure starts out with a "Framed Floor" which can be a 4" concrete Slab - which can even have gravel and a membrane under it. I thought this might be more work - but I was having to go into each room and change the flooring anyway since the default never seems to match most of the rooms. BTW, this allows me to change the material in a large room without having an "invisible wall".

Just select the entire area (use a marquee selection box) and click on the "Block" icon.

Create a Block of the Imported Detail. The Block can be saved to the Library.

Try exporting from X6 and importing into X7. Actually, if you had them in your X6 Library they should have transferred along with the rest of your X6 Library.

There are a couple of keys to the corner window: 1. Set each window to have no frame. 2. In the Framing Tab, set the trimmers to 0, set the RO gaps (or whatever their called) to 0 3. Grab the window in Plan and slide away from the corner and then back to the corner firmly. Do with both windows. 4. Set the Casings Off (both interior & Exterior I think that's pretty much it. I prefer to use a Pass Thru and then add a Molding Polyline (2 segments) with 3 moldings (one for bottom frame, one for top frame & one for glass). Then I add a couple of solids for the vertical frame members. If you save the Molding Polyline & Solids to the Library you won't have to define them again in the future.

They can be exported and then imported to your new Template/Plan.

I think I said that in post #2 and again in post #8.

Here's an example: I created the Exterior Room Molding Polyline at +48" and used a 3"x8" Edge Molding (uncheck Extrude Inside Polyline)