Alaskan_Son

Here’s a question for anyone who truly sees nothing wrong with the inset rail: How far back can it be inset? Perfectly flush? 3”? 12”? 24”? 17 feet?

Hmmm...kinda sounds like you’re just pulling the ole switcheroo with that one. Are you saying the inset handrail does not meet code after-all? Cuz that’s what it sounds like.

Read my first post again.

Just saw your picture. That's a different thing. For that, open your dimensions and use the Secondary Format. Check Include Second Format and select the desired formatting.

Custom macros in a text box are one easy way. Cut and paste this into your room for an idea... Imperial Area = %room.standard_area.to_sq_ft.round% sq ft Metric Area = %room.standard_area.to_sq_m.round(2)% sq m

Technically speaking, and with regard to the intent of the code, I tend to think the required handrail could (and possibly even should) be required to extend out over the walking surface and that handrails mounted to the top of an adjacent pony-wall (something most of us do all the time) may not actually be providing the intended benefit..especially if there's a decorative wood border that nobody even walks on. In fact, the code specifically states that handrails should be continuous from a point directly above the top riser to a point directly above the lowest riser. If the handrail is centered on a 12" wide pony wall or inset into a wall, its definitely not directly above the riser.

You missed what I was getting at. I'm not saying you would need 80" above the handrail. I'm saying that the handrail is considered part of the stairs and should therefore be the outermost vertical plane and where the headroom height should (or at least could) be measured. Using your logic, it seems perhaps these would both be perfectly acceptable stair cases...

That's what we've always called them around here too.

Undo files don't work that way. Not only are they deleted as soon as the plan is closed, but they're also very small files. Not sure exactly how they work, but they definitely don't contain the entire plan file. I suspect they just store the operation along with instructions for Chief to reverse that operation.

Sorry, double checked and if we had it, it's been deleted.

Yes. Do this... That's all I do.

I think its pretty clear that there shouldn't be any projections above the handrail. Section R311.7.1 clearly differentiates between clear width above the handrail height and clear width below handrail height only ever listing the handrail projection as a positive number and only ever mentioning clear opening above the handrail as being greater. Regardless of all that though, if I were the inspector on this project, I could very easily argue per section R311.7.2 that the handrails are part of the stairway and therefore any projections above the required handrail should be considered projections into the required headroom space. 39" headroom? FAIL!!!

I wasn't talking about the intent of that particular code section. I was talking about the intent of the Handrail requirements in general.

I see. Let me double check to see if we have a copy on one of our machines.

2017 was the last free desktop version and Sketchup only provides downloads for the last 2 Pro versions.

To me, its clearly not meeting the intent of the code whether its a technical violation or not; however, If we're using the IRC (the basis for most codes in the U.S.), then section 311.7.8.2 could pretty easily be used as the argument: IRC R311.7.8.2 Continuity. Handrails for stairways shall be continuous....blah blah blah....Handrails adjacent to a wall shall have a space of not less than 1-1/2" between the wall and the handrails. The OP said it..." Stair rails inset into wall."

First off, you didn't actually follow the instructions properly. Those instructions never say to increase the thickness of the drywall. Secondly, the best method depends entirely on what you're trying to show. Chief's instructions are for a true dropped/lowered ceiling where you have a framing layer below another framing layer. Commonly this isn't the case at all and all we really need to do is set a lower ceiling height. Also, there's no point in drawing a dropped ceiling if all you need it for is for some interior renderings or if you're not actually drawing up several framing layers. It really depends on the specifics. No matter what though, you aren't using 6-1/2" thick drywall, so that approach is wrong on all counts.

Totally agree. I suggested they change this very early on. Its a very good example of the slow degradation of our language. Sure, plenty of people say "trey" but its absolutely wrong and it's just become accepted because its been used so much. Oh well, I guess that's how we get a lot of the words we have now. It really does start to matter when we read old writings and try to understand what the writer was trying to communicate.

I didn't read through this whole thread very well so I may have missed something , but you have some goofy things going on. Your problem is caused almost entirely by the fact you dropped the ceiling by increasing the thickness of your drywall. Just return the ceiling finish to the default and drop the ceiling by...actually dropping the ceiling height.

I was only giving you some options that won't cut a hole in the roof above. Wasn't addressing the other issue at all.

You can also either use 2 separate cameras OR you can NOT display the callout on both floors and then just crop a little layout box from the one floor and place it independently over the layout box(es) for the other floor(s).

You’re going to need 2 objects no matter how you slice or dice it right?

Don't use a Hole in Custom Roof / Custom Ceiling. Instead, place the hole using CAD, select the ceiling plane, click Polyline Subtraction, and then click the hole to subtract it from the ceiling. If the hole is in an automatically created ceiling, just use a Hole In Ceiling Platform.

Looks like you have some overlapping countertops and/or cabinets. Post a plan and someone will take a closer look.

What else would you expect? Light can't shine through wood. I'm sure those cabinets in the attached photo have light strips for each shelf level. Model it the same way.