Ridge_Runner

Hi, Ann, and welcome. I almost always draw the roofs like this manually. Once you set your ceiling height for each room (sets top plate height) you can add both roof sections by drawing over the top of the lower walls for that roof. Adjust overhangs to suit and you are ready to go. You can adjust the ceiling plane later to slope under the roof if you wish. Mike

Nice view, Jonathan. I would also consider using slabs with dark color of choice behind any opening, window or door. I have used these extensively on some projects where I want to control what is seen thru the openings. Just put them on their own layer and turn them on and off when needed or make a layerset. Make one and copy them for each change in size. Mike

I like this idea, Sherry. I have never used Vectorworks, use Autocad rarely (stopped upgrading at v.4), but this would be a great feature. I like the idea of the layout not updating automatically - shows how different many of us use the program. Sometimes I may move a column on the front porch 1/2" to center it with the dimensions on the plan, or make some minor adjustment that would not be recognized in the elevations or sections at 1/4" scale. I don't want to have to go back and redo all of the "clean-up" I have done to that elevation or section. I don't know about you guys, but I still seem to clean-up the stray lines, unconnected lines, or the occasional incorrect line weight. Chief is much improved in this area, but still requires some attention. Mike

I second that. Nice work and good presentation technique. I, too, offset the additions; not because we "have to" yet, but because it just makes the attachment work much easier as Charlie mentioned. We still try to match the existing (somewhat) when possible. Some of the Historical Commissions are changing though and want the addition different. Mike

First job using X5 or first job, period? Either way it is well done, but if it is your first job then it is an exceptional effort!

I'll second that, Cheryl.

I began with '97. Seems like a long time ago. I think I was still young!

Well said, Alan. I too work solo and feel exactly as you do. All of you guys (and gals ) are my community, professionally speaking - at least I think I am a professional. I stop by hear almost daily, sometimes multiple times if work permits, because this is not only where I learn (could I get ceu credit for this?), it is also where I "connect." There are many advantages to working solo and from a home office. But community is not one of them. People need people - it's the way were created.

Thanks, Perry, for the video reference. I have been doing a similar work flow to yours with many of my text notes already in the plan template (like Joey was asking about). Haven't gotten very far with the macros but I will now as this would be a tremendous time saver. Can't tell you how many times I have printed a layout set and found a stray note or two I failed to delete that were left over from the template. Mike

Graham, great idea, except Glenn would probably win it every time and piss everyone else off! I thought about the same thing right after I posted. However, I'm afraid I set my sights a little lower than yours. I thought about maybe a coffee cup with ART's logo on it and probably a plaque - you can never have enough coffee cups and plaques.

Glenn, do you "secretely" work for Chief full time and use your local business as a "front" to throw us off the trail?

Interesting concept, Robert. I know you show "No Scale" on the schematic but what scale do you usually send these to layout and at what text size that makes them readable?

And the way would be?? Ray, was your situation a DOE (Dumb Operator Error) that I usually suffer from, or was it actually a program malfunction? Thanks, Mike

That is the way I do it. And, like you, I have to do it for many gable walls like this. Sometimes I go into the attic and pull it over and sometimes I get it to work by drawing another wall inline with it, making sure to check "no locate" and "attic wall." Like you, I don't know why - it just is.

Hello, Wendy. So glad you are still here. We've missed you and your valuable input you have given over the years.

I always think of a "knee wall" as one perpendicular to and supporting several of the rafters. Mike

I think I drew that wall in the correct "clockwise" direction - right to left in this case. That was last fall on the original set of plans. The client came back a few weeks ago and wanted the plans revised with some changes before they build. Thanks, Sherry. Don't want to hijack this thread so I will try and stay on topic. Mike

This is one of the "areas" that results in so many questions - both by newer users and those who really are power users. I have used Chief since '97. I loved the program then and I still love the program. That is not to say that it doesn't totally frustrate me at times over some very simple, basic things like mentioned by HumbleChief. I have a question on another post from a couple of days ago on why the movement of a framing member in a Wall Detail has to have a negative number entered to move it right in the x-axis. This is an exterior wall view and to move right you have to enter a negative number. Why? Most all dialog boxes work with the "standard" +x right, -x left if you are oriented in that same plane. Apparently not terrain and Wall Detail framing. Talk about confusing a newbie, much less me who has used the program for years. There should not be any secret handshakes, as someone already said, that I have to write down on a cheat sheet and pull out if something doesn't work. Not a rant - just trying to understand why "obvious logic" doesn't always follow throughout the program. Like so many others, thank all of you for your generous time to help those who are having difficulty and need some guidance. Mike

Thanks, Glenn. Not sure I like the wall detail as viewed from the inside. That would make it backwards from all of the exterior elevations and might be confusing to the framers. Mike

Thanks, Glenn. I tried your suggestion - still did not work. I tried it on an existing wall detail. Does this only change on walls framed after making the change in defaults?

I use the generated wall framing details sent to layout to convey special framing situations and information. I struggle with the way the "x" axis works in my views. If I want to copy a framing member or relocate one in the "x" axis, I have to input the direction backwards. When you look at the elevation of the framing wall, it shows from the exterior. If "x" is positive in the plan, and I want to move a framing member to the right, positive, it moves completely reversed. In order to move right, I have to enter a negative dimension. The "y" axis works correctly, although I would think it should actually be a "z" movement. That one must be connected to it programmed like a CAD detail I guess. Anyone else have this happen? It is workable, but a pain to keep straight. I have searched the forum, the old forum, and the manual - nothing mentioned. Thanks, Mike

Can't tell for sure, but your second view looks like that wall is not exactly in line with the wall the toilet above is on. That would probably give you some extra dimensions, but I wouldn't think "that" many extra. Mike

Thanks, Johnny. Good video. Too bad some contractors are not always willing to do it right. And in all fairness to contractors in general, some homeowners aren't willing to pay to have it done right.

I have done some prelims for the client using HardiPanel and the reveal system by Tamlyn. I believe that is what is shown above. And Gene, you are right. Most people I have met who don't like Dryvit go back to that east coast fiasco several years ago. And, yes, it was like you describe - bad installations from cluless contractors and untrained subs. Like so many exterior "systems," it won't work unless done right.

Raul, what are you calling a "flat seam" metal roof? Do you mean a standing seam? No problems with that roof at 1/4" to 12" slope? I know we have pre-fab metal buildings and warehouse roofs all over the south at 1/2" to 12" or 1" to 12" slopes using ribbed roofing. But, as expected, they always leak at some point - not good, especially for residential.