Ridge_Runner

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Everything posted by Ridge_Runner

  1. Ridge_Runner
    Thanks, Dermot. Like Justin, I am a long time user of Chief and did not know this method.
  2. Ridge_Runner
    Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I have a design I am almost finished with and have done a framing detail on a window similar to this. Mine is not a full-height bay as the client wanted it raised up at the bottom - meaning I cannot use the floor joists to support the outside wall and roof. I was wondering how you guys design the framing to support this window. Do you use a vertical shear panel on the sides of the bay attached to the wall studs (the way I did it)? Or do you use some other method? Thanks, and my apologies to the OP. Mike
  3. Ridge_Runner
    Merry Christmas to all and a Happy, Prosperous New Year. May you have more work than you can handle. I'm thankful the tornados missed our house last night; went within a couple of miles. Many were not so blessed. Please pray for the families that lost loved ones. Mike
  4. Ridge_Runner
    What Jonathan said - this is the way I do it also. I use it for a large number of my projects. I like the simplicity of the bubble diagrams (the way I use it) but don't like the fact that they automatically attach themselves together - I am not going to build straight walls from them. I, too, don't like the fact that their shapes are not editable like other polylines. But it is a tool I use all the time. Mike
  5. Ridge_Runner
    Just frame the main roof rafters down to the supporting stud walls and do a "California overbuild framing" method, letting the porch rafters frame over the main rafters. I do it all the time. Mike
  6. Ridge_Runner
    That's how I read it, Ben. Mike
  7. Ridge_Runner
    Nice work, Jintu. I love your portfolio on your website - tremendous versatility in your designs. Mike
  8. Ridge_Runner
    Thanks, Michael. I have struggled with this same thing for years! And thanks, Barry, for asking the question. Never thought about the layer painter. Just assumed there was no other way than "one at a time" since nothing else I tried worked. Mike
  9. Ridge_Runner
  10. Ridge_Runner
    Thanks, mattyt12. They look great. When I downloaded them some of the textures didn't make it. Both cars are white so I guess it was the exterior paint color. Also, on the BMW, the rear tag shows about 48" above the bumper; the texture for the tag didn't make it either. Not complaining - I appreciate the effort. Thanks, Mike
  11. Ridge_Runner
    Looks good, Charlie. Mike
  12. Ridge_Runner
    I'm with Dennis on this one. "mattyt12" - where did you get those? 3D Warehouse? Would you mind sharing? I have an upscale mountain home in the works that those would look great in front of. Thanks, Mike
  13. Ridge_Runner
    Nice one, Jintu. I would not have thought of that method. Mike
  14. Ridge_Runner
    Rich, did you ever think about selling used cars?
  15. Ridge_Runner
    OT Rich, but I wonder if the neighbors' dogs fight over who gets to claim the tree? Good job. Mike
  16. Ridge_Runner
    Never knew that even existed; I thought it was just a break between the dbx sections for some reason. Like Wendy said, I have used a white line for years but often had to go back and edit position because it obscured another line I wanted to see. Cool. Mike
  17. Ridge_Runner
    Or better visual feedback while you are still in the dbx as to what the change is going to look like without having to close all the dbx's only to find that was not what you wanted. The little teapot is a start but will not tell what it is "really" going to look like on a wall, solid, material region, etc. Mike Mike
  18. Ridge_Runner
    Like Perry and Kevin said, "That's how I do it" for elevations. I have much better control with a white angle hatch-filled polyline(s) on sections thru the house than any thing else. That makes the foundation show up hatched for areas I want that way when printed. And yes, I sometimes have to use the edit layout line tool, but nothing like years ago. Mike
  19. Ridge_Runner
    I don't want to open a Pandora's Box and the preference war between Apple vs. everyone else. However, my cell phone is in the process of dying and I have to replace it. In trying to think ahead, I am considering both the iPhone 6s Plus (5.5" screen) and the Galaxy S6 (5.7" screen). My primary concern is the practical use of Room Planner on a cell phone and interfacing with a Bluetooth laser, especially the E7100i that I just recently bought for this purpose. Will they communicate effectively? Second question is, will Room Planner functionally work on a cell phone for as-builts with its smaller screen? Is it a waste of time and should I go the tablet route (more money of course since I still have to upgrade my cell phone)? Any input would be appreciated. I posted this on the Room Planner forum also. Thanks, Mike
  20. Ridge_Runner
    From an engineering standpoint, Jim has mentioned the key. I am one of the ones who has never seen this type of footing used. Here in southern Middle Tennessee we see all kinds of soil conditions but only have a 12" frost line. Every builder I know will use the (I call it) standard "T" spread footing with either block or formed concrete; most of our foundation walls will be block. That gives us a wider bearing area without making the stem wall thicker for less-than desirable soil conditions. Mike [edit] - We almost never use slabs here for Residential; crawlspace or basement areas with slab for garage poured over block or inside notched top block.
  21. Ridge_Runner
    I do it like Joey's 2nd example of the turnback stairs, even on the straight ones. I take the break symbol, copy it, draw the 2-extra lines on the ends to turn it into a closed polyline, add fill, good to go. You could, of course, edit a rectangle - same end result. This method looks much more professional to me. Mike
  22. Ridge_Runner
    Some of my slow down is probably due to my video card; good for its day but it's not the fastest by any means now - 5-years old, which is a "dinosaur" by today's standards. Will upgrade at some point, but may wait and just replace workstation. [edit] If any of you guys have a better nVidia card than mine just lying around collecting dust let me know.
  23. Ridge_Runner
    I will try this method just to see how it looks and prints. I notice on my machine that when I do several solid white fills, especially for polyline shading, it begins to slow down my zooms and pans noticeably. I wouldn't call it "sluggish" so much as "annoying."
  24. Ridge_Runner
    I'm not quite sure where I saw this method; I think Joey Martin. It uses a transparent hatch fill for the upper, which shows whatever is below. Much better for presentations and condocs IMO. Mike
  25. Ridge_Runner
    That was my first thought, too. How is a stylus going to work without my familiar 6-buttons? Mike