Greg_NY61

Denis, I use to do the same, but I do this for almost every job, so I finally got a handle on it.

What Denis said... but the way I do it which is much faster because you eliminate all that copying over, I go into the library pick moulding profile, right click on it and select Place Moulding Profile... Bring all the profiles I need into a section view and stack them any which way you can, you can break them up and modify any which way you can, etc when got the look you need, block them and add to your library. Here is an image to give you an ides

Larry, this is a good idea and this videos become very useful if you need to reference something down the road...it's at your finger tips. Using videos is how I learned pretty much all the tricks in CA, not to mention this blog, so many helpful tips and tricks. I also subscribed to your Youtube, you have lots of helpful videos and very easy to follow... Thanks for that!

Joey, I hope it works out...

Larry the only thing I can suggest to try is right click the CA icon and run as administrator...and try to open that file again. I hope it helps.

Thanks Joe!!! This Macros been such a hot commodity here, each time you throw one out, I frame them with your name on it. Thank you again!

Hey Larry, What I meant to say we never use wood posts. We use concrete lally column which is rests on top of the footing and when slab is poured, the column is embedded in concrete or we just come up with the block and beam is right on top of that. Footing is always bellow the slab, with that said I guess its the same thing just not use to seeing wood posts supporting anything in the basement or crawlspace... dahhhh me, its Monday I don't know what the hell I was trying to say when I asked that. P.S Larry let me know please when you put that video on your page, I subscribed you on youtube, I will add that to favorites. Thanks!

I just wanted to clarify something, if doing a pier in the crawl space,etc the top of the footing is always under the slab? Do you guys keep top of the footing above basement or crawl space floor? I know the only time the top of the footing would be exposed above is on exterior only, like deck, etc where you would want to keep the post connection with a footing above the ground.

X2 what Perry said, that should be part of it to make things easy.

Very nice Joey!

So what was the verdict?

It would be nice if there was a radio button to control inside color on or off, like same radio button option is used to select door glass . Right now I been using abstract glass and if anyone requests clear glass, just make a notation "matching interior".

Joe, It never seems to amaze me how much knowledge you have when it comes to this and I'm sure other things as well. I tip my hat to you Joe and I give you my utmost respect and I will take upon myself to thank you on behalf of everyone for everything that you contribute on this site, because you are the man to learn from and I'm sure many as myself appreciate everything that you do. With that said, this is way too much for me to apprehend, this programing and all, even that simple macro that Richard and Larry threw it out there, when I was trying to mess with so it would include the text... without your help I doubt if I would got that to work... But in any case programing or not I enjoy reading your every article you post. Thank you Joe!!!

Interesting stuff you come across in this old houses here is a few pictures one shows a house with what its called brick nogging the house was built in the 1900's second picture is a structural beam over build-out bay supporting the second floor by one metal a rod. In the same house I found a medicine bottle in the floor cavity, I guess someone was sick and was taking the medication. The bottle had a drug store address on it in Manhattan, so I did a little research and I found this Pharmacy archives dated back to 1800's and there it was an article posted in the paper with that store address and the name of the owner, and there was another article about the new bottle style that just came out on the market in 1898 and the medicine bottle I found was in the same bottle. That sweet Spirit Nitre sounds like some potent stuff LOL maybe it was something like the 714 Quaalude of the 80s LOL I'll share a little history with you guys.

Perry, If its one 2 rooms its no big deal, if its the whole second floor added, everything is rewired. If its sheetrock, its nothing to it. I'm only 54 years old, I'm not gonna say I been doing this as long as you have,but I have about 70 New construction homes under my belt, and about the same # of complete home renovations and additions... Been at it almost 30 years, and I never seen with another floor cavity on top of the ceiling. If you think about it, If everything below is not being disturbed, you will not have anything new being installed in that new floor system, there is nothing even to be rerouted in the existing ceiling other than a light fixture so there is no need for all that just because of the ceiling light? If someone got a problem with a few lights, they should be making hamburgers not building house.

Perry, I thought he is talking about second floor addition, so there is no underfloor, there is only ceiling and the attic... this is what I'm talking about.

Joe, If I'm redoing the whole thing, the whole place gets gutted, because when you dealing with homes built in 20's, 30, some of them have brick lined walls, etc.and over a certain % area of the total house area in most places is 25% over of total area, you have to bring everything to new code... therefore all ceilings, walls must be down, all old wiring has to be removed, etc. If you doing one room addition, and customer don't want anything disturbed (never happened yet), we take the roof off and syster up the joist and put the second floor plywood. No matter how you looking at it, you don't have to disturb existing electric because you need a home run for the new addition and 95% of the time it will be ran on the outside therefore nothing gets disturbed. Also 95% of the time customer wants to upgrade everything below the new area. Here is a few pictures from 2 jobs I just completed. One, the L shape we sister up the joist, and the second one one story addition on the back we raised the plates to match the floor height, so the ceiling beams get cut out to make the ceiling higher and new framing is going in from there.

Scott, electrical runs are not being effected, and if something needs to be moved its not even an issue, and looking at that floor assembly you end up with 2' of floor cavity, now you have to deal with draft stopping and everything else and in general its just wasted space. and wasted material on the exterior... if you have a house lets say 300 ft x 2' you looking at 600SF of siding, sheeting, etc just to wrap that floor system, its a waste of money. Nothing against anyone, you guys do what your contractors ask you to do. Around here its unheard of to do anything like that...

Sorry guys, never had any issues whats so ever, not with the need to reroute anything (don't even know what is there to reroute if nothing is above there except a few lights) or never had any problems to run new wiring, or anything else... If you going up with the whole first floor area, all you need is one wire up there, a junction box and you run all your wiring for the second floor from that, your HVAC is going in the attic so there is no need to chop anything on the first floor. If you going up over one area, lets say a split level and you going over cathedral or regular ceiling, there is nothing up there, we get this rooms up in: day 1 demo framing, sheeting, day 2 we install roof... its a walk in the park to erect another story without the need to build up anything. With that said if you going to do that, you might as well pack the plates up, eliminate the ceiling all together and do your typical floor assembly, at least you end up with a taller ceiling...that would make more sense vs. building a whole new deck on top of the existing ceiling. I guess it all comes down to each its its own.

I don't know why go through so much trouble... We would just sister up the ceiling joist, subfloor (or take them out completely) and off with the second floor you go... Did dozens of add-a-level and never build another deck on top of ceiling joist... never did it that way or see anyone doing it that way.

Very nice Bill! Thank you!

Joey, I have all rounded corner bead in my house and used it on a few jobs.I don't think it can do that, I would use ID label referenced to a CAD detail of that corner with the same label number, unless someone tried to do that and its possible to do. Here is an example if it helps, just change the CRN Bead Radius if it's different.

I use wired Microsoft's Comfort Mouse 6000. I had this mouse for years and been using for modeling work which is requiring more precision mouse movement. I also use ALLSOP mouse pad with with high sensitization and that gives you a flawless connection with the mouse. When doing work in sketchup big help comes from 3D Connexion navigator, to bad its not available for CA yet, I think the only function works with CA is zoom. I hope it helps P.S I have a landscaping design program on my laptop and I use wireless mouse and it sucks.

The only thing I can do is make a round window and using room poly-L I was able to put horizontal mullion but not vertical. I guess like you said, it has to be done custom with a symbol. That would be another nice option to add since most round windows have different shape mullions.

I agree with others, IMO he paid for it, he can do whatever he wants with it is how I look at it... If they have a problem, whatever they do, please don't take David kayaking (some will understand the meaning of that) he is too valuable for them, like other guys, Scott, Perry,Richard,Larry, etc Chief should be giving this guys free software and everything that comes with it ehehe... With that said, what is a big deal if someone shares a library or what ever...if anything the Manufacturer's would be happy to know that theirs products being used and promoted... and if I was one of them, I would give them out for free at the request of the customer, and most already doing that like the decking industry who offer advanced designer tools free of charge, some kitchen designers offer the same... Maybe years ago this was a big deal, today this stuff is available on almost every page of each manufacturer or distributor.