JKEdmo

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Everything posted by JKEdmo

  1. BTW, there are 2 drinking fountains in the "Medical / Dental" specialty items library. This library costs $19.99 to purchase at Chief. Unclear to me if these items are different from the free versions. It's been a while since I did an accessible drinking fountain. I believe what makes it accessible is mounting height, clearances and controls. (The one shown below has a push bar) I'd suggest reviewing an ADA model by a manufacturer like Elkay and then finding the closest match in the library. Place and position to comply with accessibility requirements. Jim
  2. Doug, I'm more of a beginner, but first thought is you could add a suffix to a new door number such as "A" or ".1" to "sandwich" between existing scheduled door numbers. For example 25A to add new door between existing doors 25 and 26. Inelegant, but might be a quick workaround. Jim
  3. Apologies! I just turned on my workstation and started my coffee, so brain a little hazy. I gave you an upvote though. Thanks for answering my "exploding symbols" question. Appreciate it. Jim
  4. Thanks for all the input. Eric (Solver) was nice enough to do a small tutorial video on this for me. I got it to work. My first Chief custom symbol! I did have a quick question: In Chief, once a symbol becomes a symbol, it seems there is no way to "explode" it back to it's original 3D solid parts so that you can modify. Is this true? Jim
  5. Yes, that's the one I'm using.
  6. Thank you. I forgot about those. D'oh! I still wonder if using a regular window is realistic or just too much trouble... Jim
  7. Thanks DB. I've got some homework! Jim
  8. Trying to model this triangular gable end wall louver: I've gotten pretty close... But only after too many minutes of tweaking and fussing.... I can't help but think I'm making this difficult and missing some morsel of magic. Is there an easier method to this? Thanks, Jim P.S. Eric Solver had an earlier suggestion to use a Tudor Arch shape with radius set to zero. Gets the overall shape right, but the louver infill does not show.
  9. Hello, I'm trying to match this offset paneled shutter style to align with my offset double hung window. Does anyone know if this is doable with the standard tools, or does a custom window shutter need to be created? Real world: Virtual Chief world: Thanks again, Jim
  10. JKEdmo

    Brick Pier

    Thanks Ryan. - Jim
  11. Good afternoon, What's your approach to model a structural brick pier under a sunroom (photo below)? I tried Post Framing with Footing. I then changed the post to 12" x 12" with brick material. I also looked at the Pier tool under Slabs... I was left wondering if it's just simplest to model as a 3D solid. Would appreciate any tips. Thanks again, Jim
  12. Here's a link to a previous forum discussion. I used keyword "revolving" in search. You might find some more tips if you dig deeper. Jim
  13. Don't understand off hand, but I'll give the technique a try. I have some homework to do... Jim
  14. Yes, except I want to keep my default as a normal arrow head. I occassionally use the leader with a dot style head for the room tags I place outside a room.
  15. Thanks Joe. Went to do it, but you beat me to it! Jim
  16. Thanks DB for your quick reply and insight. Jim
  17. I'm a little perplexed by the Object Eyedropper tool and it's abilities. I was just now trying to match / convert an arrowhead of a room leader from arrow to dot style. This to me seems about as basic a challenge for such a tool... But, the tool does not seem to work for me. Digging deeper, I see that the "properties to load" panel does not have any arrowhead properties, so maybe that's why the arrowhead does not change: From what I have read, the tool seems pretty powerful and detailed... Anyhow, two questions: 1) Am I misusing the tool and I just need to understand it better? 2) And related to this -- does Chief have a true "match ALL properties" tool that works? Thanks, Jim
  18. Here's a photo of standard door in front of stair in case not clear. Jim
  19. For your consideration -- If the framed wall stands proud of the stair, one option would be to leave the full-height doors like shown with the door leaves concealing the sheet-rocked stair underside. The triangular part of the stair assembly would of course be visible when the doors are open, but if storage space not a big deal. I think looks better than a tapered door when seen from outside and simpler too. Jim
  20. Good morning, Are you inclined to or not to have a step down at the door between garage and house interior? My research shows a step is not an IRC code requirement, perhaps to better facilitate accessibility or because self sealing doors with closers tend to solve any car fume concern. I default to a step down as it seems like a good thing -- for water intrusion (i.e. hosing down slab), anti-vermin, and maybe just "psychology". Or do you feel garage / interior at same level is okay? Thanks, Jim P.S. BTW, I'm not asking about the door swing / landing topic, of which there has been "spirited" previous discussion.
  21. To me it looks like a full floor assembly directly under a roof and the depth of the floor assembly is deeper than the roof's and therefore sticks out. (Not sure if this is the source of the problem or if Chief is able to automatically handle such a condition by beveling the end of the floor assembly). Jim