DeLayDesign

Thanks @DBCooperThat's the ticket!

I'm sure we've all done it, we've flipped the mouse while in 3D and the camera starts spinning. Sometimes slow, others super fast. Now that I want to do it on purpose (without creating a walk-thru) I can't. Anyone have a tip?

OK; so what I ended up doing was pulling the first floor wall down manually, then grabbed the second floor wall from the side (the top wouldn't let me pull it down) and pulled it all the way across the front face. Bizzar ar.

It's not very often I come across them, but from time to time they pop up. I can remember figuring out how to make it work for me before, but now I can't see to remember. I know I can build it in sections with invisible walls, and place the columns myself, but what's the proper way to get chief to realize the first floor wall shouldn't travel past the second?

@GeneDavis - Yes sir. as-builts. I found a thread from 2020 that reference the manual - I looked it up. Windows width in the window dialog is in fact including the frame. We are trying to correct our practices and ultimately adjust out methods of measuring. One issue we run into constantly is 'window sizes'. Your method is how our Kitchen and Bath designers measure, but some of our 'drafters' come back with frame to frame dimensions and that's what they put in chief as their opening size. I believe Chief Architects room planner (not the same program) has a way of checking a box that will allow you to input window width frame to frame. Also - a Window Sash and window frame aren't the same thing.

An issue we run into with some of projects is window sizing and how people interrupt it. Some of my designers will measure frame to frame of a window; and without being able to measure the frame thickness leaves us in a difficult scenario sometimes. Digging deeper into Chief's measurement systems is appears 'sides' refers to the width of the window including the frame. So theoretically if the frame is 3/4" a designer who measured frame to frame would need to add that extra 1.5" to the window size? Has anyone else run into this issue in the past? How do you get accurate windows dimensions?

Do you have your railing 'wall type' set up as a 'partition' (little check box in the lower right corner - new addition to x14)?

Hey @AmberDawn - You may need to 'refresh' your views if you sent the elevation to layout then made additional changes, like adding in dimensions. If they still don't show up, check your viewport window to make sure it's big enough to see all the dimensions.

If I replicate your original design (Because it appears the download file has been corrected), I see what you're talking about, but looking at how your original file is drawn, correcting it how you have in the download file would be the solution to this problem. Plate height, window interaction, overhang etc. would all play a factor in buildability. Curious though. The framing components you're using for the roof - are they 'actual' size 2x8s? It's been a while since I've seen those. I only ask because your roof structure is set to 8" even. I've attached the file again but modified to recreate the problem. 166289684_D-22-119-BROLLY-FIELDCREST-DEC2022(AS-BUILT).plan

It'll all come down to the components you've specified, so be specific with your framing. I just took a guess at some of the framing information. The last part of it all I used the framing joint tool to get the weird glitch happening at the corner. Roof Framing 1.mp4

----- Sorry @DavidJPotter - I didn't see your reply before posting mine.

Yes; use 'Edit > Edit Area' This will allow you to select what you'd like to 'grab'. For your example you would probably want 'Edit Area (All Floors) Once you've selected which 'Edit Area' you'd like to use, you'll then create a marque box around the entire home. I typically start in the upper left corner and drawn diagonal to the lower right corner. This will grab everything you highlight in the next steps (roof, walls, windows, etc.). It should even bring over your previously established materials. Then in the main toolbar click "Edit> Copy" This will copy everything you've highlighted in your marque box. Open the plan you want to copy the file into and either 'Paste Hold position' (if your new plan is drawn in relation to your copied plans) or copy and paste the recently copied plans and paste them somewhere in the plans. Locate where you'd like a corner of your home to sit and move the file into position. Edit Area.mp4

Hey @payettedesigns I think you're referring to scale sizes? I'm not entirely sure as it seems perhaps you're working in a different format than I'm use to. Most of our plans are drawn on 11x17 or 24x36 pages so the format we use is 1/4, 1/2 and 1/8 primarily. In all my years in the industry I haven't needed to drop to 1/16; but again I may not be understanding the question; so I apologize if that's the case.

Definitely the graphics card. I had the same issue but reverted my RTX 3080 back to before the December update and everything worked perfectly fine again.

For sure! That's how I have done it before as well. It's a bit 'easier' to use. This approach allows your to keep the railing working as intended and you could use a higher number of segments in order to get an even tighter looking radius. The steps involved isn't ideal. Hopefully X15 gives us another way

I created a video for you to references, but it's actually easier than I thought it would be. The file is too large to post directly to Chief, so I've created I've added it to my google drive. The link is below. In the section of the video where I tell the arch to convert to polylines, it asks you how many segments you'd like. I choose 8 with an angle of 11.25 degrees (I pause for a second to show you this), but you can choose any number you want (within reason). The 11.25 degrees is important for the array section of the video, but if you choose another number like 6 for example you'll want to use that degree number instead (6 for example is 15 degrees) You will also notice at the end one of the segments gives me a little trouble. Chief doesn't seem like this connection and wants to break it. For some reason, it happens when I zoom out. It may be a glitch @ChiefArchitectwill want to address... however clicking 'undo' seems to rectify the issue. Google Drive - Rounded Interior Stairs Video

OK - I figured out the curved stairs! Using all Stair tools

Hey @KarenLF Wrapping is actually possible. I use it all the time with exterior deck stairs, but only recently realized how the interior stairs work. It looks like you have the overall concept down... however your stairs are shown overlapping - you don't to do this. Instead you'll want to make sure both stair segments are set up the same way. For my example I added in a set of stairs and adjusted it's properties. Then copied, pasted, and moved the copy into position. From there, I added in a landing using the landing tool. Chief wouldn't let me do it the normal way of just clicking at the top of the two steps. After that you can continue your run upwards. As for a bowed set of stairs - I haven't figured that one out yet and I'm not sure chief can do it. Stair Wrapping.mp4

I just found myself in that same boat as I too wanted to clean up my catalogs Unfortunately there isn't an easy way to do it and 200 imported files later she's all clean As for duplicates. I tend to delete as I find them in my normal everyday use.

---------------- You'll need to specify in the room (or your default) where you want floor insulation to be shown. Then once you've selected that it should be 'auto detailed', it should show up in your material list. Material List - Floor Insulation.mp4

When a dishwasher is placed in a cabinet, the whole cabinet becomes the appliance. For the look you show in your photos, you would need to place three individual cabinets. One 42" sink base, one 24" cabinet for the dishwasher, and one 18" 3Drawer. Although I'm not familiar with what you're trying to accomplish using one cabinet, in order to offset the appliance you'll need to adjust the whole cabinet that is acting like an object... Because of how chief adds the appliance centered in the cabinet, you'll have to do some finagling to get it to look closed off, and unfortunately, I'm not sure how to get the 2D plan to replicate the change we've just made. I would also like to point out that even though you've offset the appliance, you can't 'split' the cabinet face to add items beside it... Offset Dishwasher.mp4

----------- Because I have two 27" monitors or because my signature is obnoxiously huge and I don't know it? ha ha! Either way, UPGRADE I haven't tried painting them another color, but I suppose I could try that. I still want the plants to look like plants, just not washing out like they look sometimes with sun properties.

Hey experts. I've lived in the past for too long, and the limitations with the PBR when it comes to 2D image plant files and a little free time has me trying to play around with the 3D Plant assets. That being said, I'm not a fan of how 'bright' some of the plants look when hit by sunlight, but nothing I do to adjust how they appear seems to make any difference. I notice that our plant files don't actually use Normal and Ambient Occlusion with limits the 'realism', but going into the material properties and choosing 'matte' and adjusting the diffuse to 10, 20, or 30% doesn't actually do anything to the image file that makes up the 3D plant. At least not that I can tell. Am I missing something - do you have any tips or tricks to make Chief's 3D plants works a little better, or should I just move on to the 3D marketplace and bring in new assets?

Oh! I'm sorry, I missed that you were trying to open the file in 3D viewer. Yeah. 3D viewer is trash. It only allows 50MB, which is pretty low for what you would probably be showing to a client. The way I was able to get around this is by having the client download the 'trial version' of Chief. Then simply open your plans on their PC. You would need to export it all so everything opens for them OK though.