JiAngelo

Sorry, "Locking the roof" is a term I use with clients. It actually means we're done moving exterior walls and I can turn automatic roofs "off" to hand draw / modify any roof planes/dormers/overhangs that aren't drawn as we want. The back master plane is the trickiest. Practice pushing and pulling them like you would a slab or soffit. Just along a different axis following/matching the peaks, valleys and overhangs of the adjacent planes.

Coralie, I didn't catch you'd included the plan in your first post. I downloaded it and fixed it See attached. Couple of notes. You need to leave the back left master bath wall as a hip, not a gable. It explodes the roof. Changed the front right wall of this left master to a hip, not a gable put room dividers on the right bedroom rooms that split the vault-flat lines (like the hall, half the W/C and the left side of what looks like pantry? Set all the rooms you want vaulted to "no ceiling" just roof on the structure tab. I added roof planes at 25 degrees in the back room - extending out so that you can see the scissor. you can move these back in or set them to 37 degrees if you are conventional framing. Same for the roof planes in the front right bedroom. I set these to 25 degrees and extended them out so you can see the scissor. On the left master, I left the planes at 37 degrees. Look at the 3d view and turn on Glass House and spin it around I think you will see how the ceiling planes all come together. For the last part, I turned off automatic roofs and extended out some roof planes to force the gable on the back side. I had to clean up some of the remaining roof planes. Not sure how to walk you through all of it. It's just something I know how to do from lots of practice. Take a look and let me know your thoughts. It was fun working in metric The Dunk-Fixed.plan

This is without any porches covered with roofs. The back gable is scissored within the main truss. I used 8/12 pitches. (see first 3 attachments.) The fourth attachment removes the hip and uses a common truss with a scissor on the back end to achieve the gable in the back area. It destroys the front right gable, but I think this could be worked around with some half trusses. The last attachment is my drawing over your sketch extending the lines that control the roof points (disregarding your interior for the moment.) I changed all my gable roofs to 4" yellow so that you can see them easier. Once you like the roof, lock it, and redraw the interior to match what you want - noting any bearing points that need to follow through to the foundation. I hope this helps.

Very impressive. I like how the mounting posts are independent of the sign itself. Easier to clean and store. .

I place the roof plan layout of the first floor on the page, Select it, then cut and paste an identical layout box over it, open that pasted box and change the Plan View Tab to the 2nd Floor. I then extend the 2nd Floor Box right side all the way to the right of my layout page. I then extend the 1st Floor Box top side all the way up to the top of my layout page. The last two steps makes it easy for me to know which box I've selected if I need to change anything. For instance, sometimes I will toggle additional interior walls to show if I need them to determine interior bearing locations, etc.. The attached picture shows a home with 3 levels. Box extended Left is 1st Floor Roof Layout Box extended Up is 2nd Floor Roof Layout Box extended Right is Attic Roof Layout Hope this helps.

Yes. Using elevation splines, then break and move points to match the image, open and input correct elevation data

That's the simplest answer. I spent half an hour Sunday trying to verbally outline all the steps, gave up and just did it in the other half hour. First step is to draw the perimeter per the North/South vectors shown on a survey. The radius edges will drive you nuts until you've practiced it a few times - I can't explain it, I just know how to do it. Then snapshot the Pdf image and paste it into chief. Then scale it to match the perimeter you drew, lock the image layer, copy the perimeter in place a few times, convert one copy to a terrain, then draw the elevation splines, making sure they cross the edges of the terrain. Add trees and a house. Once you've rotated the entire terrain, you can draw the house inside the setbacks and chief will auto set the first floor to a standard height. If you have a walkout, you can modify the terrain to show it properly as well. I'd hoped this would save you some frustration and give you something to play with and try to match.

Great idea.

Steve, Here's your plot plan. It's in Chief X9 Beta. You can delete the box house I drew on it. The Audio/Video layer has the image of your PDF locked on it. You can turn this off/on. A copy of the initial plot plan and image (minus the elevation data are on a CAD detail named "PLOT". On the plan I added a terrain large enough to include the roadway, then drew elevations 2140', 2132', 2130', 2120', 2110', & 2100'. The 10's are in blue E/L line type. The 2132' is red. Chief's then drew in the 2' natural gradients which closely approximate the lot's fall, but if you want, you can copy and past the 2132' elevation over any of the other PDF elevations and then adjust the spline, adding break points as necessary to get the proper curves. Remember to open the line and re-enter the correct elevation for any new locations you add. I've drawn a 3 sided fence around the perimeter, a road with a cul-de-sac and for fun I dropped in some trees. I drew a 1st floor box set of walls so that I could look at the elevation in 3d. Without the box chief wings it and you'll need a lot of luck to find an empty terrain in 3d view. If you take this plan, unlock the Audio/Video, select all, and open the transform/replicate object tool, you can rotate everything 158d3'0" (enter that in the rotate angle box.) This will rotate the lot so that it is facing downward and everything you draw is parallel to the N68d03'0"E front property line. Meaning the house will directly face the road. I've shown this in the PLOT cad detail. you can practice there first. Once you are done drawing the house, you can place a footprint on the PLOT cad detail (turn off the Audio/Video layer) rotate the footprint to match up with the plot plan shown at the true angle, turn on all elevation details and you will have a good representation to place on your layout pages. I've included some isometric views of the lot and a zipped file of the plan. Let me know if this works for you. MCC28.zip