JiAngelo

The 32' span is your biggest hurdle. Deflection will likely require steel to be greater than 12" tall. I know glulams would be greater than 16" based on another job we just sized. ForteWeb.com will allow you to run some calculations yourself. Maybe (4) columns spaced 6'-24'-6' would work. That would keep the posts out of the triple door openings line of sight. Headers in the ceiling over patio doors negates cantilevering (which would lessen the load actually on the steel beam.) Uplift would still be concern. Give it to an engineer and see what they have to say. Why be embarrassed? You're at the point where you need his input to refine your plan.

FWIW - I've never been able to slide windows or doors closer than 2" to one another. I can paste one beside another and the distance is then 0 between them.

Joe, when you say "all floors are at relative elevations to sea level." Don't you mean all floors are relative to the terrain and you've given your terrain a relative sea level value? I ask this because Chief maintains level 1 floor relative to the terrain. We built a 3 story house 10 years back with a 2 level basement. 2x10 joists. Our desired CA levels were as follows; 0 = Cellar = ‐22' 11.5" below 1st Floor 1 = Basement = ‐10' 11.5" below 1st Floor 2 = 1st Floor = 0 3 = 2nd Floor = 10' 11-1/8" above 1st Floor 4 = 3rd Floor = 20' 10-1/4" above 1st Floor. Level 2, 1st Floor, was 2' 11.5 above Terrain. So we had to tell chief Level 1 was -8' from the Terrain. This placed Level 2 exactly where we wanted it in relation to the terrain being 814.33 above sea level. It also set our cellar floor to 794.67 and cellar walkout patio at 794.00 (top of footers being 794.33 everywhere else.) Back then I created an excel sheet to track the elevations and overwrote our story pole values because it measures everything relative to CA level 1. I'm fairly certain you'd create a macro variable that would handle this discrepancy automatically. Long story short, if you insert a level between your plan's 0 and 1, making your first Floor now on.level 2, then tell chief your terrains relationship to new level 1 so that it is the proper height below.level 2, then all of your sea level measurements as they relate to the terrain should then be correct. Anything referencing level 1 would be off the distance terrain is above this level. I hope this helps.

Follow Robert's instructions. I used "Input Line" versus "Input Point" and you need to ignore Chief's rounding errors that it creates when drawing something so far away from the origin. To lessen the errors, open a new plan. Copy the above polygon and pasted it near the origin in the new plan. then import your pdf and change the CAD layer to RED. Now resize the PDF 10x and point-to-point moved it to match up the property borders with the red cad box. Note I changed the cad layer line weight to 1000 and also locked the PDF layer. Now you can create a terrain and place elevation points and splines that match up with those your plot plan. Note, the house isn't parallel to any of the lot lines. It is parallel to the front fence line. And here is your local government's GIS site map https://maps.rockhamptonregion.qld.gov.au/HTML5Viewer/?layerTheme=Contours You can turn off the PDF and paste that image instead. Resize it to match the red cad box and now you can figure out approximately where all the trees are in relation to the house. . I hope this helps. Again if your surveyor could send you a dxf/dwg file then you could import that and everything will show up in its exact location. I've added the X15 files for you to play around with. RealWorldPlotPlan.plan OriginPlotPlan-PDFGISimages.plan

What is the problem? Those 5 points create a polygon that is over -23m, -179m from the origin (0,0) If you have the surveyors dxf/dwg file you can import this into chief and all the points in the file will populate in that -23m, -179m location. Alternately you can import the survey pdf, move it to -23m, -179m and resize it to the reverse of scale and then move it to match up with 5 points. (I usually change the polygon color to red temporarily and insure the pdf is on the last layer behind everything and.lock that pdf layer.) Now you can manually add all the other elevation points. (Make them another color and it's easier to monitor your progress.) This isn't as precise but works internally for most uses. If your problem is the house is drawn near 0,0 (far from the polygon coordinates) There are several courses of action here. Let us know what you are trying to achieve.

In X15 you.can export your user library as a calibz file. Close X15, Open X16 and double click on the calibz file and it will import your user library into X16. I mucked up my X16 installation and discovered this. I've now deleted all extraneous user items that I rarely use and occasionally revisit X15 to copy/paste/add to library any I suddenly need.

ACADuser gave you the correct advice for manipulating a polyline to give you the area as you wish it to be calculated. Chief calculates standard living area (LA) to the outer edge of exterior walls (exteriors are LA excluded) and the middle of all interior walls. Name a room a LA excluded type (garage; porch, or open below for example) the adjoining LA included rooms then measure the entirety of the shared wall within its living area. The walls where LA excluded rooms touch each other will never be counted automatically by Chief. No different than walls separating a garage from a porch would ever be counted automatically. Your temporary solution was brilliant. Replace the wall adjoining 2 LA excluded rooms with 2 room dividers spaced the original wall's thickness apart. Then give the space between an LA included name. Then recreate the LA polyline and it should show you standard area calcs now automatically include what I think you wanted. Just add a filled polyline between the room dividers to mimic the wall.color you are using. An alternative to ACADuser's suggestion is to shrink the one hole to one of the excluded room sizes amd add other holes sized to the adjacent excluded rooms with holes separated by the thickness of the walls you want included. The LA polyline area will be correct, but Chief's auto LA calcs will not. Hope this helps.

This morning I traced everything and used Ryan's 2x2 wall idea in a few areas. I noted those walls that needed to be 2x2 (and 2x8 in the case of three walls). The two bathroom 2x8 walls aren't required - but chief won't automatically draw the openings as "through" unless they are closer together. I'm not sure why the architect drew the one Greatroom wall using 2x8. Everywhere else 2x6 works fine. For me personally, Chief has never shown angled corner framing correctly - it only draws full studs. But if I can draw the wall, the framer chalks it, then cuts all top/bottom plates to match, then goes back later to create the corners using studs with ripped angles. For this reason I rarely show wall framing. Chief also doesn't handle firestopping issues created by doubled/angled walls and the chases/spaces they create within. A framer knows how to deal with this in the field. It would be nice to see the Architect's framing plan, to see what they intended. Too much of this easily matched up for me to blindly repeat my tired mantra that architects should be required to frame 5 years min. before being licensed - like most of our trades are. Hope this helps.

Unfortunately that loses the hinges on the fixed panel - perhaps you could call this out in the comment on the schedule? I tried placing two doors side by side and independently specifying the doors. This works, but they are both shown in the schedule independently and when mulled together the locks/handle information is suppressed. Again this could be called out in the comment on the schedule. I hope this helps.

Try this.

First, why do you need the wall doubled? Most additions are 3 walls plus a pre-existing shared wall. Foundation is dug under the 3 new walls and the existing foundation is relied upon for the shared wall. What is the doubled wall bearing on? Why not just use a ledger header bolted to the top of existing wall on the new side? Second, placing a 1" gap between the double walls allows them to coexist. This is how I show finished areas in basements without building a new wall type. Third, why not just build the new wall layer? Here's a 1 hour fire wall example we use in duplexes. Make a copy of your interior wall type then in the dbx copy the framing inside the main layer and place a 1" air gap between the framing. Alternate your studs to reduce sound transmission.

I recreated every one of your walls this morning and never once saw the problem. I'm fairly certain it is your floor, but you've only provided us this little gem: And I've been unsuccessful at guessing what combination of platform settings would recreate your problem. Gene asked for the plan file to eliminate this guesswork. We're here to provide you a solution. Don't want to send us that plan file? Export the walls, import them into a new plan file, recreate a 4 walled room with the interior drywall extending below the floor deck (like your original 3 pictures) and send us this plan file instead. Whilst doing so, you may discover what setting caused this problem. And if not, we are all here to help.

In case you wanted an answer to your original question, when you create the custom field check off "Format as a Number" Then open your window schedule and click on "Number Formatting" You'll find custom field "Elevation" is missing from this table. I created an "Elevation2" and "Elevation3" as a example. For both I checked "Format as a Number" and both appear in this table. I then formatted Elevation2 and left Elevation3 unformatted. Look at the results. Lastly, %bottom_elevation% reports in raw inches to begin with. I had to change my window elevation reference to "Absolute" to get the second floor window bottom elevations to measure from 0. I am curious how you were able to mix the measurements in the same line. Your W02 measures Bottom Elev. from floor elevation, while both Comments/Elevation measure from Absolute.

Yes to 2nd question. And change the 2nd floor roof pitch to 1/4" if you want it to resemble the picture posted previously.

For the eaves to match at the front porch and to use autoroof, Make the garage and middle room above roof planes all 12/12. Don't build those attic rooms just yet. I personally then lower the room above ceiling to 4' 1 1/8" ceiling height (the minimum I generally want my room above sidewalls to be) . It was luck this worked first time around. My garage was 24' wide and the room was 12' wide centered above. Next step is to see how much wider I can make the room. Turns out 14' is too wide, but 13'8" works fine. If I'm ready to lock the roofs on the entire house, then I uncheck automatic roofs and set the ceiling height back to std. in this room. Chief then draws the slope start lines automatically. If the room was being used for storage, I might lower the walls to 37 1/8" and that would allow the room to be even wider. This is the only way I've found to control the sidewall heights. There's another method that draws the walls under the roof regardless of the sidewall height - it just does whatever makes it work and then I have to compare elevations to figure out heights. Alternatively some room truss designs require the side rooms so that a 10" bottom chord extends the entire length. Using Kellyh's method, In the side rooms I would set the room height anywhere from 1.5" to 7.5" - unfortunately the overhangs won't align with a front porch unless you raise the porch roof - which is a problem if there are windows above to consider. I've never been happy with the attic room results unless the room is alone on a floor by itself.

My bad. I didn't catch the outside unit. Given the room size, and balancing this with cost (a window unit is only $200), what if you inset the wall between the doors, reducing just the toilet space to 3'4", leaving the bathroom 4' wide at the sink? I also reduced the doors to 2'6" wide and made the bathroom 7'8" deep. I am showing the inset wall as block, but it could easily be a 6" siding wall, accenting the block to either side and increase the toilet space to 3'6". This allows a passthrough that is a few inches wider than a 5,000 btu unit to maintain airflow on the outside. These small ac units are only 15"-16" deep.

>Tools >Layout >Referenced Plan Files double-click the one you want to change and select new plan. If the views exist in the new plan they will repopulate. This includes cameras, cross sections, and cad details.

Check this out. It could mount over the toilet. https://www.acwholesalers.com/LG-LQN090HV4/p106101.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwO20BhCJARIsAAnTIVTrbGyYyYlroj21QWNWBjz4s0egVLQ-FTU9yg3C2zXd47OBLjtlcZEaAhKPEALw_wcB Also look at RV ac units. Problem is your room is less than 40sf so any wall unit is likely oversized.

Send a plan view image with the camera location showing please.

To create a model, -View the house in 3D, no terrain. -Turn off any interior furniture (To lessen the size of the model). -Export as a 3D model (I prefer *.dae) In your terrain plan, -import 3D model. -Chief will add it to the library. -select it like you would a fixture and place it where you want it. For.me it imports with the basement footer at terrain.elevation. so I have to sink the house about 8-9 feet along the z axis. (Usually until the garage doors are 2" above the terrain.) Then place the house where.you.like. Then repeat for the other floor.plans you want to include. The upside is all 3 homes are now independent for schedules, notes, details and material lists. The downside is if you.make any changes to a plan, you need to re-export, re-import, amd replace the model. There is a better way. Simply "reference" another plan from your terrain file, like you would another floor. Renerabbit showed me this a while back, I haven't had the time to.master it. It is similar to placing a footprint in a cad detail (but in the terrain file's plan view) Best part is it is live. If you change the house floorplan, the changes show up in the terrain file.when it is reopened. Chief has a help dbx that will walk you through it. Hope this helps. We use it for subdivisions to show.many different homes side by side.

I was hoping this isn't what he meant. It's a bit more complicated than that. Due to the curvature of the earth, every area is divided into a "state plane" grid that surveyors use. Here's my area's coordinate system. I am in OH_S The last DXF's from my surveyor has one corner of our 50'x100' lot located at x= 21767534.875" and y=2539813.4375" from Chief's origin. (also my surveyor's state plane origin, which for us happens to be near Edinburg Illinois, southeast of Springfield.) I only know this because I had drawn a house near the origin exported it to my surveyor and he sent it back to me to show me where my drawings were showing up on his system in comparison to where my lot was actually drawn. In the reverse, if I import the surveyor's dxf and choose "ignore" when the following dbx pops up, Then draw my home inside his dxf lines, then what I export back to him will have the house located exactly in his system, our our excavators GPS equipment, and our own GPS tablets. This takes some practice to get used to.

Change your CAD defaults to display quadrant bearing and decimal feet. Lots are typically closed polygons, so I turn on "Show Length" and "Show Angle" in the "Line Style" section of the Polyline DBX. (last image above) You can manually draw a survey by placing a starting point X then double clicking the line tool and entering the distances and orientations of each sequential line. The resulting dxf will give your surveyor the correct orientation of your home in reference to the lot lines you drew. Note, the dxf lot lines themselves will not be located to real world state plane coordinates (GPS) - that's a bit more involved and is usually done in the reverse starting with a dxf from your surveyor or county GIS center.

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The csv data is for a shape file.

Can you post in the kml and shapefile formats?