rgardner

16 minutes ago, builtright3 said:

Its interesting that we can turn off the dimension number but cant turn off the dimension lines and not the number.

Not at my computer.  Can you change your line style to the blank line and your arrow to background color?

16 minutes ago, builtright3 said:

I typically just put in text for the dimension numbers around the perimeter of the house because I think it's a cleaner look without the dimension lines but it takes a little extra time to do it like that.
Is there a way to do dimensions and then not show the dimension lines? I never really thought to ask the question because Im sure the answer is no but what the heck, im asking anyway.

 

Select your terrain poly line and click show length and angle.  All sides will show up.  The downside is all have to be in the same location so for example above the line preference is set on the upper line the dimension shows above the polyline on the outside of it,  the lower shows inside the polyline and the same on the sides one outside one inside.  Most of the times not an issue but I had one recently I had to manually place text that showed the line.

I have not done this personally but another option is to do a leader text line with the macros for show length and show angle if you needed to place it remotely.  Then you can “hide” the arrow and line if you want by changing line style and arrow color.

32 minutes ago, mborean said:

Hey gang,

Thanks for all the replies.  The obvious solution, and its silly that I hadn't thought of it was to place geometry over the aerial image and give it a transparent fill, send it to the back in drawing order.  As a refinement, I placed the aerial image and the transparent geometry on a unique layer and then locked it.

 

Still, it would be cool if we could manipulate the transparency of an object (including lines) and even an entire layer.  

 

Thanks again!!

The brightness of the image helps give it that same look as well.

Check out @TimSchrock ‘s vídeo on importing jpg files:

https://youtu.be/PBBqTcJOiJc

I believe he is asking about vertical centering.

In the rich text box there is a line spacing option in the paragraph box to the top right.

Regular text is easier as in the attributes tab there is a setting for top left right and bottom spacing.

4 minutes ago, DavidJPotter said:

What you did is what I would do but it may be the symbol that is poorly made where you cannot assign a different material to each piece of the "X", sorry, try another symbol or make your own is my advice.

 

DJP

I am pretty sure what David mentioned is probably the issue.  Is the x two or three pieces? If not when you paint the second color on it will change all directions.

helpful?

3 hours ago, para-CAD said:

so the only problem is that the rails are locked to the platform size and stringer.

 

I can get it close for 2D plans, but 3D model looks wrong unless I drop the top stringer

Remove railings and manually place with the top tread being part of the landing instead of the stairs.

@marinus  just wanted to give a plug for @jbaehmer.  I actually was the manager and design correspondent with one of those contractors that he worked with in Bellingham at the time I lived there.  He does top notch work and is very fast at making accommodations for turn around time when necessary.

8 hours ago, LordBeowulf said:

Read the post.  CA X11.  But it's apparent you're a bot, so...

 

Beo

He is not actually a bot but is very helpful with newer users.  The reason he asks for your signature to be filled out is actually to help you get more responses.  The guys on this forum are extremely helpful and generous of their time.  But because the majority answers are tied to which version you are using or even sometimes the hardware you have it running on if they don’t easily see the info in your signature line they either have to ask and wait for you to respond or they just simply pass on to the next person who has filled out their signature line.  
 

He was trying to give you a helpful hint as there are a lot of new users and many who come from the Home designer line to this forum searching for help.

All the best on your search.  as far as your question about paint?  If you spray paint the color on try using the object option as well as the paint roller mix option to just paint the surface.

18 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:

As a general matter of policy, I always hit the tab key after entering info. into data entry fields so I’m not sure I would ever notice this particular issue.  

I noticed that when I started with x10 and got in the habit pretty quick of hitting tab as it always makes it stick.  I believe it is the whole undo/save issue that was talked about in the cabinet dbx thread the other day.  It's chief's way of saving us if we make a mistake.

8 minutes ago, DzinEye said:

I'm all for options, and you give good examples, which make perfect sense if one has set the plan to reference heights from grade, but if we've already selected to reference the 1st floor subfloor as our zero, then it seems the program could discern that and then correctly show grade for what we've set it at below floor level?  Anyway, it's a minor thing, but I just can't seem to be able to manually move the story pole grade marker where I want it to go, which varies  on a sloped property.  Any tricks for that?  I've tried placing points, when I drag to the point the dimension just disappears.

I believe this is what I did when I was struggling with this.  I am traveling right now so don't have chief available at the moment.  But you can turn off getting the grade height and set another height off of a point and change the label of it to grade.  This assuming that you are using the SF as your 0 point.

I just had this exact same situation and it happened to me as well. It was an as-built so the 2d was the only thing important but I did have to prep for an interiors set.  I handled the upper walls by drawing an attic wall which filled in the ceiling portion and it built it correctly with the crown molding.  The lower portion showed the subfloor instead of a "Riser" type material of some sort so I set a custom backsplash.  I still have plans to go back and see if I can figure out why it doesn't seem to be working but had to finish the plan for the Interior designer as it was a crunch situation.

May be an easier way to do this but I have sent the same page over multiple times and crop out what doesn’t fit on the first row starting with the next line on the next row.

19 minutes ago, Renerabbitt said:

My brain can't remember more than 20 hotkeys..my touchpad has a graphical representation of several hundred.
I swipe right and have another full page of hotkeys from framing, swipe again and I have materials...my touchpad is infinite, and works with a host of different programs.

There is a new app on the apple app store for iPad that can produce a touchpad using chiefs icons...I just haven't found the time to program it yet.

I have a video illustrating this exact idea :

 

 

Do you have a pic of how you set your desk up for this type of setup.  

I currently have a pretty full desk by the time I have my standup portion of my desk for those long days when I need to get out of the chair and standup and work, with main monitor keyboard and mouse on it, right side has my second widescreen monitor and desk phone.  Left has some real estate available...  Seems like it would be tricky to get it positioned in a way to not have to really make a large effort to get to it without breaking the workflow...????  Just curious as I am considering trying out the new app store app.  Goal this year is to get more proficient with custom hot keys (and macros...).

14 hours ago, robdyck said:

One simple method...

Create an elevation polyline that is the perimeter of the lot.

Create an elevation polyline that is the perimeter of the structure. Make this elevation polyline 24" higher than the previous one.

Same concept set your above terrain to zero and set a poly line on the outside at -24”

4 hours ago, ClarkeThrasher said:

Common practice in Tidewater VA (Hampton Roads, 757) for crawlspace foundations has been 8x16 CMU Piers approximately 6' on center supporting 6x6 Treated Girders with continuous Brick Veneer Skirt Wall that is flush with the exterior frame walls -- the floor joists cantilever the short distance from their girder bearing to rim joists to be flush with the veneer and support the exterior walls.  I guess in the parlance of CA these are Stem walls.  But after exhausting all the Online Help Foundation Videos I haven't been able to arrive at an automated method that will produce this type of foundation wall.  In the past, I have just built these in CA plan piece by piece, object by object but that is a huge hassle.  Anyone have any suggestions?  If so, thank you for your consideration!

 

Screenshot attached is view from most recent plan for an addition, code here will no longer allow solid 6x6 girder so this shows a triple built up 2x8s.

 

Your truly,

 

Clarke Thrasher

CA Premier X11

MacOS Catalina

iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, Late 2015)

Processor  4 GHz Quad-Core Intel Core i7

Memory  32 GB 1867 MHz DDR3

Graphics  AMD Radeon R9 M395X 4 GB

 

 

 

 

Are the Piers on a continuos ribbon footing?

not at my computer but the thought of a foundation wall of your brick facade and a post to beam railing wall with the 16”x8” newel post set at 72” centers and materials set accordingly (can save the wall type in your library.) would possibly work for your needs.  In the PNW we do a lot of crawl space foundations with a 2x4 or 2x6 pony wall for supporting our joists on a ribbon footing.

2 hours ago, thecrayoncrew said:

deleted...figured it out...

It is helpful to delete a thread instead of just editing the original post.  Right next to where you edit is the ability to delete the thread.

Sometimes if you get good responses it is nice to leave the answer there for others to find in the future.

4 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

 

Do they though?  What if you are trying to select an object in a crowded area, you finally get it (either using Select Next or by luck), and then your double click grabs another object instead?  Or what if you have multiple objects selected?  A double click anywhere other than an edit handle will drop the selection and pick up on any other eligible single object at that location.  I've probably spent hours of my life watching these types of scenarios play out.  Its not just the flawed operations that cause problems either. People lose out on progressing because they never learn to get past that point...never learn to properly select and edit multiple objects at the same time, never learn to effectively select and edit objects in crowded areas, etc. 

Okay now I understand what you are saying.  As I mentioned I use CMD E 90% of the time and really only use double click myself on opening rooms (when they are large and you can select it without selecting other items.)  I try to learn as much as possible from others and have watched all of the Chief videos and lots of youtube videos by other power users and have seen many of them use the double click (lots of times struggling as you mentioned) and seeing the issues has always translated for me into use the open item shortcut.  

Thank you for the clarification on what you were talking about! 

On 2/7/2020 at 3:52 PM, Alaskan_Son said:

double click vs. Open Object).

Can you explain this part?  What is the difference between double clicking on an item vs. opening an item?  It seems they both open the DBX.

Personally I am in the CMD E mode to open most items but see a lot of people use the double click method.  

Try this:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01069/designing-a-traditional-pole-barn-structure.html

I have done it different ways but sometimes I will just use a solid wall and place a doorway the size of the fridge opening.

8 hours ago, wymandg said:

Forgot to mention I did save the new plan as a new layer set also. I have the floor plan view shell saved using the floor plan shell layer set and the new kitchen plan is saved using the kitchen and bath layer set.

So send each of the views to the layout and make sure they are showing different layer sets.  Another way to do it is use the same view if you want but copy the layer set when you do it so it shows (ie a different floor).

3 minutes ago, wymandg said:

Hey Everyone,

 

Trying to create a layout sheet for kitchen plan and kitchen elevations so I created a new “Kitchen Plan Set” to be able to edit dimensions etc. without changing the main floor plan. Every time I change something in this new kitchen plan set, my floor plan set changes with it. I thought creating the different plan sets is what allowed you to edit things independently of each other?

 

Thanks in advance!

Dylan

 

I am using X10

When you create the new saved plan view you also need to set a separate layer set or at least one that is different than the other being used.

12 minutes ago, Hammer7 said:

hello, I'm posting a copy of my current dilemma...I have a small section on the second floor of this house that I cannot get the siding color to change like I did at every other part of the house.  I deleted it, tried to paint it, looking for the dbx that controls this section?  any thoughts?

Click on that section of wall in ortho overview and you should be able to open it.  From their check your “wall coverings” tab in the dbx or change it to default first then change it.

23 minutes ago, Reddoormedia said:

I've seen the comparisons. It doesn't tell me if the code and interface for both are the.

If you look a little closer it does answer that question in user resources.  And as stated it is the same program with those exceptions.

As Eric mentioned and as I alluded to in the noted article above You kind of hijacked @gmdesigns45’s thread.  You will get better results to your individual questions using the sales related forum.  This forum is an amazingly helpful resource and there are some extremely qualified and helpful users on this forum who go out of their way to help out but they are taking time out of their work day to try and help others for free on this forum.  
 

You will see that Chief is an amazing product with an unparalleled user base who really help make the program even better!  Hope you find the answers to your questions.

10 minutes ago, JasonParsons said:

also, Not an Apple Guy.

 

It’s okay we all have our issues... 

Good luck in your search!