rgardner

Can you get the room to be shaded (selected) with an adjoining room?  If so it should show any walls that the room definition is going through and thus is set as no room definition.

10 hours ago, Hammer7 said:

Thank you, I did not realize that layer could be turned off in elevations.  Eureka!

 

That is generally the issue when something is missing in one view and not in another.  That item is turned off.  Sometimes it gets put on some layer that doesn’t make sense in your head.  Best way to find it is to change to all layers on select the item to find out which layer it is on and then go back to the previous saved plan view and turn that layer on.

1 hour ago, Caleb_C said:

Hi Ryan, that sounds great. However what would you do about the timber rafters that go under the tongue and groove ceiling?

Just set your Ceiling plane manually as well as set your rafters to the right height.  I do it all the time with timber framed porches just without the rigid.

If I am understanding the request properly you can set a custom ceiling structure for that room with the rigid foam and the tongue and groove.  

Don’t recall where I got this (pretty sure from another post). And I don’t think I actually ended up using it so I didn’t mess around with it much.  But maybe this will help?

Roll_Up_Garage_Door.calibz

Have you tried doing a regular wall with an opening with no jambs casings or threshold? Sometimes on those stepped ceiling floor areas room dividers mess up the 3d

The schedule is fitting to the 2d or 3d symbol height.  If the large lines bother you I believe you can change your text size to a little larger so that it fills it in a little more.  But of course if you get it too big it will look funny when printed.

23 minutes ago, DenisonDrywall said:

Whenever i draw in a frost proof stoop, it creates a room above and then all these attic walls come in and create problems.  so if I'm doing something wrong when I create a frost proof stoop, please let me know.  It drives me crazy to have these wall show up where i don't want them.  then if you delete them, they show up as a regular wall and they never go away.

 

Chief is just trying to fill in where walls are needed according to what is input.  If you are trying to do a roof over the stoop and you want it open to the rafters above select the room “porch” and unselect the radio button of flat ceiling above.  Occasionally you will need to delete the ceiling structure member as well but that is rare.  The attic walls will only be created where they are needed on the side.  If your trusses or rafters sit right on your top plate of your wall below then no attic walls will form as they are not needed.  But if you use a raised heel truss as many do, or your truss base is siting up above your wall top plate then chief will fill in an attic wall above it.

As far as the other issues a plan file would probably be best in order to figure out what’s happening.

I saw this on Facebook but didn’t have a chance to respond.  I believe you are asking for the support knee walls in your foundation crawl space to support the joist floor system?

Chief builds rooms even in the foundation so I believe your solution is to set your ceiling height in your foundation to the bottom of the joists and then build the walls.  If you have auto framing on if you adjust the wall framing you need to open that wall in structure and select the radio button for not to auto generate framing for that wall to keep it from resetting to what it thinks you want it to do.

6 minutes ago, MarkMc said:

You can prevent that easily by getting a copy of Winaero Tweaker (free or donate no nags). It will disable Win Update with a click. (no idea why it slows your internet or takes hours mine does neither when I allow it to update). In any case with the tweaker you to decide when it updates.

otherwise.....politics, religion and OS-not at the bar..

Haha

no I live in da campo of Panama so my internet is always slow 9/1 so when windows updates it takes a long time because of the speed.

yup I try not to get into the os debates other than maybe when sitting in the pool with my Dad in Mexico.  I was just trying to help the OP see the differences and still understand what makes Apple a great product.  
 

Speaking of,  I am in Mexico next to the pool... I think it’s pool time! 

38 minutes ago, TheKitchenAbode said:

 

The comparison I posted is not to a Mac Mini. It is to a MacBook Pro with the exact same processor. The point was not to undermine Macs, just to provide some clarification as to the general misconception that Macs perform better than PC's.

 

Mac's and Windows offer to users two differing experiences and feature sets . It's up to each individual to decide which works best for them.

Yes I realize that.  My intent with that comment was to help the OP in his decision as he is going from an Alienware laptop to a Mac mini.  Two different style of machines.

38 minutes ago, Chrisb222 said:

In my opinion Apple simply has a more refined final user experience due to integrating the hardware and software together as a unit, making the functionality seamless and easy for the user. I've always believed this and have had extremely pleasant experiences with their products. Very anecdotal, but my brother on the other hand went down the PC road and has told me many stories of endless headaches getting both software and hardware to work, patching things together, and so on. Sure some test is going to show one machine is faster than another at a given evaluation, but other factors come into play.

 

With regards to the question of the OP, all I can say is I'm tickled pink that a little unit I bought new for $669 works so well with zero issues, year after year. I'd like to PBR but it's just not worth the hassle and expense, when everything else just... works.

I agree that with Apple products it just works.  The absolute only time I have an issue with my computer is when I try to run one specialized program that I use for BOQS that is absolutely only windows and I cannot find a suitable replacement for and have to run windows with parallels which in that case it will always have a stupid update that locks the computer up for sometimes hours while it downloads with my slow internet!  
 

But basically what was stated is the truth.  Apple just works because it is controlled with the hardware and software.  It is not quite fair to compare an Alienware laptop to a Mac mini.  And yes you would need to run apples to apples (forgive the pun,) to get a fair comparison in which case the Apple equivalent will most likely cost more because it is balanced properly.  In my life experience it generally costs more to have more convenience and quality.  That is what Apple does best.  
 

Just my two cents (free of charge) regarding Apple products.  Everyone needs to do what is best for their circumstances but please don’t ask me to go back to PC because I won’t ever.  I am happy with the cost and the quality and product I get.  For me the extra cost is worth it to not have downtime worrying about my drivers and ramping my fan because it needs to run faster when I do x,  it does it automatically.  It just works...

I hope this helps the OP in his decision making.

5 minutes ago, Designer1 said:

Ryan, thanks for the input.  Is there any advise on this buy?  Surely Im grateful for the gift, I just don't know much about adding GPUs etc.  You run on mac but its the pro model...which Im sure is a lot more costly... do the bigger macs allow for customization?  

 

Yes, that's what he told me... he said Macs are built 1000 times better on everything then a regular pc, even my alienware brand.  I cant argue given I don't know much about Apple and hes a senior director computer engineer. haha.  SO I just say ok whatever you say about computers I believe you.  I just wanted to ask the Chief community because I know our software isn't the regular stuff everyone uses and may require different system requirements.

 

Thanks for your help!

The new Mac pros start at $6k and go up to north of 60 so yes they are extremely capable and able to be upgraded completely.  My Mac pro is 2 years old (previous version) and runs GREAT. It is difficult to upgrade the GPU on those models but it comes with dual capable units so I should be good for many years.  My laptop for travel is a pretty good unit and is probably similar to the new Mac mini but I always bring my Sonnet breakaway puck travel E-GPU (external video card) which gives me the higher capabilities.

If I was looking at upgrading to a new unit I would probably go with the new MacBook Pro 16” laptop hooked up at home to some much larger high resolution monitors, with maxing out the ram and GPU option.  Probably a good $3-3,500 computer though.

9 minutes ago, Designer1 said:

My friend is like MR APPLE.  He loves everything apple and has been convincing me to switch from my alienware and I wont budge.  Chief works fine with my pc and have always been a pc vs mac person.  My family have bought me two apple iphones and now Im starting to grow on liking Apple.  Now my friend said that's it hes going to buy me a mac mini and that it will be worlds better then my alienware.  Im still hesitant but it appears he is buying it regardless so Im grateful yet unsure how chief will be on it.

 

I know with pcs you have to make sure the video cards etc are in alignment with chief.  Does anyone know how Mac minis work with Chief?  I went on the apple website and it doesn't appear to have a million choices of video cards to use. So do they just work out of the box with the default way they are built with Chief?

 

Im trying to get some input on things to look for or switch before he orders anything because if I do get the computer I want it to work well with Chief. 

 

Thanks for any input!

That is a very good friend.  All of the Minis I have used or seen come with a built in GPU not a dedicated and are not able to be changed.  A newer one may be different but either way Chief will work with enough power and ram behind it but will not be amazing for PBR or regular rendering.  There are external gpus that can be added and make it a very good system.  They are really more like a laptop for power in a small form factor but they are great little machines and if you give Mac a chance you will not go back!

Just now, RobUSMC said:

Thank for the help

YW

On 2/24/2020 at 7:36 PM, Chopsaw said:

Marquee Selection will save you both a lot of  time.  Just click and drag a box around the text.

Something else you may find handy is the Edit Rich Text In Place tool.

I believe the OP was trying to figure out how to add it to his library.  Unless I misunderstand his question.?.?  Has definitely happened before.

5 minutes ago, RobUSMC said:

Same with wall types

Same answer for the walls.  Export and import from your template.

9 minutes ago, Doug_N said:

Checked the dbx and there is only one floor.  

Was the floor manually changed leaving a double floor thickness?  What is the ceiling below set at?  Could it be 8” joists and 8” rafters?

1 hour ago, ricatic said:

Darn...I just bought HD Pro 2020 before Christmas...how much will it cost to upgrade to 2021...

In times last it was pretty reasonable $99 per year.  Just FYI if you do end up

hoonh to premiere they generally give a good discount towards the upgrade.

9 hours ago, builtright3 said:

Is there a Text Fill shortcut so I don't have to open the dialog box every time I need text background? I know I can set my defaults either way but I don't always want to use fill or not use fill.

 

Probably an easier way to do it but add one of each to your library.  Unblock and adjust words.

6 hours ago, dkmtek said:

I've watched a few different videos but, they don't seem to address what I'm looking for? I can edit, and add back to the library CAD blocks, except for those in the "Notes & Legends" drop down tree? It acts differently than the other CAD blocks, for example, I can explode both, but, when I explode the Construction notes, it still acts like a CAD block, except the "Save to Library" Icon disappears along with the "make Block" icon? Also, when exploded, on the construction notes, you have to double click on them to open another screen to change the wording, vs changing it on the drawing like the construction detail blocks? 

 

I'm working in the Floor Plan before adding it to the Layout.

 

I'm on a mac using x8. 

Put a an invisible box around the text (change line style to the blank line or change the color to background). Reselect both the hidden box and the text box and block them together and add to your library.

Did you designate the rooms as porch and deck?  Sometimes if it’s set as unspecified it will drop it down to the foundation “room” below.

5 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

I may be misunderstanding, but I have the same issue with title block text.  I use macros in various areas of my title block I use macros on page zero.  For the actual page title however, I actually place the text box and reposition as necessary on every single page specifically to address the issue you're discussing.  I still just use the %layout.title% macro in the text box, I just Copy/Paste Hold Position from one page to the next and center in its own little area of the block...

 

This way the title fits nicely on every page...

Yes Michael I think you are right he was specifically talking about the title label.  I do the same thing for each page.  Set it up on my template as I have pages for everything there with the labels all centered as yo mentioned.

8 minutes ago, wjmdes said:

Yes, you can make a symbol of it and insert it into the house plan.  That is how I do it and then do a rendering.

Yup best way to do it for renderings.  But note that will not copy the plan rather it makes it a 3d symbol so once you have done that it is not able to be adjusted like a regular plan.  Make sure you have a saved plan of the garage.

if you are good with the house and the garage and are just trying to do a 3d rendering you can do it with both the house and the garage in a separate file to keep it streamlined in size when you add lots of landscaping/hard scaling details.