rgardner

21 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

 

He is already using the only known "trick" or work around that I am aware of....

 

 

M.

Quick search on my phone but this is just one of the ones I remember seeing about this and I think it is @Renerabbitt who has another work around.  I remember other cases and other tricks were out there as well.

https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/21441-wrapping-text-on-different-computers/?tab=comments#comment-177485

38 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

 

I guess it depends on how you look at it - why would you expect Chief to place a 74" high Door "in" a 6" high wall automatically?  as I said it surprise me we can even do it.

 

M.

I usually have a 6” pony wall and a 74” glass shower wall setup as I usually have some “full-height” glass wall and the door doesn’t always go from wall to 42” wall as in this plan.  So I setup my default shower door 6” from floor and 74” high to the same specs as my standard wall.  The very reason for this whole thread.  But when I place the door there it subtracts the wall cap height from the door height.  Regardless if I add that amount to the default door or not.  The weird thing is when placed from the user library instead of the template default “location” it places correctly which is my very point with this inquest.

57 minutes ago, ACADuser said:

No, a single vault. But Chief will not build a single truss for me.

Do you have a way to build it without a manual ceiling plane? Maybe I missed a setting?

In your plan you have your little jogged in room set as flat ceiling which is why it is dropping down there but everything else builds a straight flat truss with a single vault surface below.  Just uncheck the flat ceiling for that or if you want that flat ceiling but want to stick frame it set it as non first then place your trusses and after go back and set the ceiling after you have your trusses how you want it with a manual ceiling plane and frame the ceiling individually by that room.

is that what you are after?

btw I couldn’t get it to build at a true 108” either...  seems like that wall wants to add the floor finish level.  But it was interesting when I clicked floor above is hung on wall for that wall...

I don’t recall the trick but it has something to do with the screen size.  I would recommend searching the forum as it has been discussed many times.

4 hours ago, ACADuser said:

Oh, yes I knew that. Too bad the truss tool doesn't know that.

 

Are you saying to do a double vault?  If that is the case then yes you would need to manually set ceiling planes.

35 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

After placing the Door all I did was set it's top height back to 74" ,  The Rest I had set in the Shower Door Defaults already , eg single door , swing both etc.

 

**Just tried it again to make sure I remembered what I did and all I needed was the top height adjustment  

 

Chief's Parametric Doors do have to be placed in a Wall , so I am/was a bit surprised I could even place the door since my defaults set it at 6 1/4" off the floor,

so technically above the Wall , so I was Happy all I had to do was rest it's height from the floor.

 

In the Past I just used my Own Shower Door I made as it's not a Door as Chief sees it, so these quirks don't happen.

 

Mick.

Yeah I was able to place it too but have all along.  I guess what I am looking for is it to be able to be placed into a wall and not have to go back and resize it just like it is designed to be done.  But the more and more I see it seems to be a glitch since it takes the wall cap out of both the bottom wall height as well as the door height.  I guess unless someone else has something I will submit it to technical support and just keep using my door in my user catalog.

27 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

 

You didn't play long enough  ?   works for me , I did test it.....can't say exactly what I did differently though right now....I'd have to try again...

but here is your plan back just in case.

 

MHD_sample template plan.plan

 

Thanks Mick for the try.  It looks like you had to manually adjust the door just like I have been doing.  You have a 6" high tile 2 sided wall there and when you place the door into it it actually has a -3/4" height.

Messing with what you did I was able to get it right but I had to 1.) set that curb wall to 80" single type railing wall (not pony wall), then place the door which gave me the right height. then 2.) change that wall to a 6" high railing wall.  However the door that remained was not at the right point until I changed it to a two way swinging which placed the hinges in the middle.  (Which does make sense.)  The problem is that you have to do that work around from placing it as a 80" railing then place the door then back to 6".  It makes me think it is acting more and more like a bug???  The whole reason I am trying to get this to work as a template is because I always manually adjusted it in every shower before.  Only way to make it work without having to set everything on the door manually is if I use the one that I saved to my library.  Again not a big deal but seems like it might be something that could trip up others.  I know that one client I work with does lots of showers and she always was fighting with this and until I started working with her she couldn't figure out how to adjust it to show it properly.  Seems like maybe A.) I am doing something wrong or B.) there is a bug in this setting as it seems to take the wall cap thickness off of both sections of walls not just 1 section.  Also there may be times when you don't want that door to go from solid wall to half wall.  You might want the front to be all glass with the door set in the side of it and then transition to a 42" pony wall near the corner...  If that is the case you have to place everything then go back in and manually set all of those settings instead of the default door placing properly.

3 hours ago, rgardner said:

That makes sense!!! Thanks Mick

Well I spoke too soon.  Thinking about it that wouldn't work because it wouldn't be able to have the shower door added to it.  I went back and tried just in case but yes it just puts a 6" high shower door into the curb.  The door continues to come in exactly the 1.25" short or thickness of the wall cap.  I tried adjusting it to be 1.25" longer and it still cuts it off that length every time.  it isn't putting it at the 4.75" height below the cap either it starts it where it should and ends it every time at 72.75" tall or 78.75" overall.

As Rene mentioned the only way to get it to work correctly is if I add the shower door as a symbol (even with the default settings I have) to my user library and place it from there.  Which is what I am going to do for now.  But it seems like a glitch to me unless someone can figure out why it is happening as it very well could be something I am overlooking.

Thoughts?

4 hours ago, Renerabbitt said:

I just opened it on my end, no issue saving it to library as the the correct dimension and dropping it in. I could login to your computer and help a bit later when my household wakes up(we partied last night)

 

Thanks for the offer Rene, I know how to make it right.  I was trying to get it right so when I do it for my template it is right.  I See Mick figures out which step I was missing.  Just a 6” rail instead of a pony wall.

3 hours ago, Kbird1 said:

 

 

This is the issue AFAICT........  the Curb just needs to be a 6" high tiled both sides, Railing Wall ( set 6" high) with Cap ... not a PonyWall  

 

And AFAIK there is currently no way to Add a Default Roof Label , though I have made a Feature Request for the same thing myself.

 

M.

That makes sense!!! Thanks Mick

43 minutes ago, Renerabbitt said:

@rgardner Not in front of it right now but try unchecking Interior Door Spec/Framing/Header/Default and see if that works

 

Thanks for the idea but I checked that originally and do not have headers turned on. 

Hope all are staying safe and sane out there.

Have a small issue I need help working through.  Really not a huge deal but...  This is always something that I did manually before but watching @Renerabbitt's great tutorial on showers the other day I picked up a couple of pointers and decided to fix my template with a shower room.  I have always just adjusted the shower door, curb wall, 1/2 wall etc to the settings so everything worked correctly but thought hey, why don't I get it set up right in my template...

Anyways not sure what I am doing wrong here but here is my issue:

1.) Set Glass Pony Wall Defaults (pretty much out of box but changed to 42" & 38" elevation heights for even numbers as inside and outside floor finishes are different in shower rooms

2.) Set Interior Glass shower door Defaults to 74" Height 6" off of ground top height 80"

3.) Place Walls & Door to check it, cut 1/2 wall where I want the door and change to 6" high & 74" high instead for curb height. 

End resultssample template plan.plan:

It seems to correct the interior door by 1 1/4" (Thickness of my wall cap).  Am I doing something wrong?  I just changed my door setting to 74" height to get it to flush correctly but even adding it to the door height in my defaults and it cuts it off the same height.

Thoughts?  What am I missing here?  Any help would be very much appreciated!  Bonus points for anyone who can help me with adding in a macro into the roof plane label @ template level.  I always just group select the roof planes at the end and add my macro for the label but am thinking maybe there is a way to do that at the template level?

Thanks for any and all help!

Flood plane area?

22 minutes ago, HumbleChief said:

Thought I was using that as well. Maybe not though. I should recheck my methods. 

 

Darn just when I think I understand things. I have a template plan that I open for each new plan and it has all my Anno Sets Saved Plan Views etc. 

 

I will save that plan as "New Job Name" but how else would one proceed with a template plan?

Learning from this rather lively convo:

it appears like what Michael is saying is that your template has some errant walls saved in it when you built the template maybe?  Why not open a blank one with your template and throw all layers on and check all levels?  Might find something or put that point to bed as not the issue???

Are they penetrating the ceiling/roof structure?  If so that could be the issue.

9 minutes ago, Jambruins said:

I can get my corner boards to match the color of the siding but they also take on the siding material look (horizontal lines spaced about 4" apart) but I can't figure out how to get the color to match but for the corner boards not have a texture to them.  I have tried selecting a different color with no texture but it does not match the siding color exactly.  Thanks for the help.

It is all about finding a texture that matches closesly enough with the siding.  If it is a Cedar siding for example which is one of the more difficult scenarios get a wood that is similar to it in look (not color) and change your corner boards to that material.  Then download the minwax stain catalog and mix a stain with that wood texture.   Trial and error.  If it's a cementious product like Hardie they have trim products as well as siding with the same colors and with the vertical grain.

On 3/30/2020 at 8:46 PM, Renerabbitt said:

POST 30

 

New tutorial for building showers efficiently in Chief X-12:

 

 

 

CLICK ME TO GO BACK TO THE INDEX!!!

 

Great explanation.  I picked up a couple of tricks.  BTW I do the same thing with my shower curb wall, and you can set it as a default to remove that base molding so you don't have to remove it from the room.  Also I like your idea of making it a set room and am thinking you probably can remove the default molding in that room the same as setting your mud bed floor and changing your floor tile.  

Thanks Rene!

52 minutes ago, ACADuser said:

Steve,

Thanks for the alternate method.

I used your building set plate height at 9' added the roof.

The roof was too low for my 20" desired trusses so I added sloped ceiling at 9' & raise the roof to get 20" trusses.

Then I was able to create the trusses.

 

Now to see if I can modify my plan to match.

 

Probably missing what you are saying here or this particular job's details but if you set your roof structure to reflect the 20" parallel chord trusses then it should have built it properly.  

8 minutes ago, solver said:

Molding profiles should be closed, except for an exception or two.

 

Learning something new here....

So Eric you are saying instead of having a radius for that molding if it is faceted then it will show correctly???  Have you seen a limitation if setting high levels of facets?

Looked at the plan and I think what Mark is talking about is causing the issue.  just grab that wall in elevation mode and lengthen it to cover it.  The wall will automatically cut correctly and fill in that area.  I don't usually worry about those till the very end as at some point many times it fixes itself which means it is a step we are doing that we are not associating it with finishing that wall off.  Probably not related, but I know having rooms not defined, as well as rotating your plan or mirroring it top to bottom without using the reverse plan feature can sometimes mess with this type of thing.  For what it is worth, before building the roof I try to have all of my rooms defined as sometimes it costs more time later down the road to fix things that are associated with defining room types.

BTW a quick tip that does help with those scissor vaulted porches.  Someone on here shared this a while back.  Don't remember who but THANKS to whoever it was:

1 way of many to do it:  Setup Ceiling planes in that "Deck Room" and set the vault/height/etc.  Pull it out to the edge of that wall instead of the inside of the attic wall which will cut the exterior wall that way.

I don't do them that often but I remember this method seemed to work how I wanted it to on that project. 

Lora of techniques.  Can use the ramp tool.

5 hours ago, joey_martin said:

For some odd reason, when using raised foundations, Chief will not build a foundation under porches. You have to put them in manually. 

Probably a regional thing.  Most of the PNW has a 12-18” frost depth so lots of builders scrape your topsoil add your compacted fill then a 4” slab on top.  No frost wall in a lot of those areas.  Just put in a pc pier ftg for the posts.

Are you asking if you can change a camera to a back-clipped view?  If that is what you are asking then you can open the camera itself in plan view and set the back clip setting.  You probably already know this and I am not understanding your question.  Can you clarify it more please?

17 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

 

Not entirely true.  If you delete an attic wall while Auto Rebuild Attic Walls is toggled on, the wall is automatically changed to an invisible wall and put onto the "Walls, Invisible" layer.  Delete it again and it changes back to a normal attic wall and put back onto the "Walls, Attic" layer.  

I knew that I had seen that before.